
^ 





^'Synija... 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



Shelf ....HA 4 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 




How to Grow Cut Flowers. 



A PRACTICAL TREATISE 



ox THE CULTIVATIOX OF THE ROSE, 

CARNATION, CHRYSANTHEMUM, VIOLET, AND OTHER 

WINTER FLOWERING PLANTS. 



ALSO 



GREENHOUSE CONSTRUCTION. 



ILLUSTRATED. 



A BOOK FOK THE FLOKIST AND AMATKUK. 



BY / 

/ 

MAi. HUNT. 



A^ 






Published by the Author 

1893. 






^^•^- 



N\ 



^•ii^:^ 



Entei'ed according to Act of Congress, in the vear 1893, bv 
M. A. HUNT, 

In the Oflftce of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



b^ 



VX6 

-. A 



Press of Moore & Langen, 
Terre Haute. 



K) HE1{ WHO HAS WALKED BY MY SIDE FOlt NEAULY A (^ AiriKK 
OK A CENTURY, HAS TEXDERLY CARED FOH ME IN SICK- 
NESS, CHEERED AIE IN DAYS OF ADVERSITY, 
AND EARNED HER FULL SHARE OF THE 
REST THAT HAS COME WITH 
THE EVEN TIDE OF 
LIFE, 

TO MY LOVED WIFE 

IS THIS \ OLTME DEDICATED. 



CONTENTS. 

Page. 

Preface i-iii. 

Chapter.— I. Greenhouse Construction 1-17 

II. Ventilation— How Constructed 18-22 

III. The Short Span to the South 2.3-28 

IV. Greenhouse Heating 29-30 

V. Hot Water Heating 31-34 

VI. The DoAvn- Hill System 35-36 

VII. Hot Water under Pressure 37-38 

VIII. Heating by Steam .39-43 

IX. Overhead Heating 44 

X. Roses— Their Cultivation 45-46 

XI. Soil 47-49 

XII. Stock for Planting 50 56 

XIII. The Renewal of Rose Plants 57-58 

XIV. Roses in Summer 59-61 

XV. Depth of Soil for Planting 62-63 

XVI. Planting 63-65 

XVII. Staking and Tying 66-71 

XVIII. Mulching 72-73 

XIX. Watering 74-76 

XX. Ventilation 78-80 

XXI. Temperature of Water 81-83 

XXII. Shading 84-85 

XXIII. The Cutting of Buds 86-89 

XXIV. Grading and Packing 90 

XXV. The Preservation of Flowers 91-93 

XXVI. Insect Enemies 94-107 

XXVII. Insect Exterminators 108-118 

XXVIII. Diseases of the Rose 119-126 

XXIX. Forcing Varieties— Cultural Notes 127-140 

XXX. The Forcing of Hybrids 141-147 

XXXI. Florists' Green 148-152 

XXXII. The Carnation 153- 

XXXIII. Diseases of the Carnation 168-180 

XXXIV. Chrysanthemums 181-187 

XXXV. Violets 188-194 

XXXVI. Mignonette 195-197 

XXXVII. The Forcing of Bulbs 198-205 

XXXVIII. Orchids 206-208 

XXXIX. Miscellaneous Topics 209-228 



ILLUSTKATIOX^^. 

PA<4E 

Anthracnose of Carnation 173 

Bencliing 0-11 

Hlack Spot r24-l->5 

Bacterial Disease of Carnation 175 

Club Root 103 

Down-Hill System of laying Water-pipes 82 

End of Sash Bar— How Made 14 

Evaporating Pan lO'.i 

Form of Gutter where Houses Join 7 

Forcing House for Lily of the Valley 2ill 

Gauge for setting Bars l(j 

(iutter for Outside Wall ' »i 

How to Join Gutters 5 

Header used at foot of Ventilator 15 

How to fill in between the foot of the Bars 16 

Method of Laying Hot Water Pipes 32 

Movable Wire Frame for Staking 69 

New Method of Building 2s 

Pot Racks 212 

Ridge — how joined 18 

Red Spider . . . . • • 94 

Rose Bug and Larva 96-97 

Rust on Carnation leaf 169 

Roof— how supported . '. 12 

Ridge— how supported .... 18 

Side Ventilation 20 

Spot on Carnations 172 

Tiie First American Greenhouse Frontisjiiece. 

Three -Fourths Span House 10 

The Short Span to the South 24-26 

'I'liri)) 99 

Va))urizing Tank and Pipes 111-112 

Violet House 190 

Violet Root Galls 193 

Wire Support for Carnations 159 

/inc Joint 17 



INDEX. 



Adiantums, to grow 150 

American TJeaiity, cuttings for o4 

Treatment of 136 

Ammonia, to use 1<)8, '217, 205 

Asparagus I'liimosa 152 

]>lack spot, remedy for 127 

Jione Meal, value of 215 

Boilers, care of 224 

Bulbs, how forced 19B 

Calla Lilly, to grow 205 

Carnations, average night temperature 161 

("ut worms on 166 

Cuttings, when made 157,179,180 

Early planting 157 

Fungoid diseases of 169,17:-! 

Remedies for 174,177 

Fertilizers for 168, 164 

(irading the flowers 168 

Improvements in 158 

Insects injurious to 165,166 

Kust on 169 

To prevent 171 

Soil for 168 

Supporting, how performed 159,160 

Vitality lost 155 

When to house 158 

When to syringe 165 

Chrysanthemums, black apis to kill 187 

Crops to succeed them 182 

Cuttings, when made 182,184 

Distance to plant 184 

Grown in Sprays 182 

To single flowers 188 

Grown in pots 185 

New disease of 186 

Soil for 188 

Varieties foi- cut flowers 186 



iv Index, 



Page 

Cement, use of 222 

C. Mermet, temperature for 131 

Cleanliness 209 

Club root, to prevent 105.214 

Coal tar, its use 219 

Grade oil 221 

Cuttings, wood for 51 

Cut worms Ifjfi 107 

Disbudding carnations 165 

Chrysantliemums 185 

Roses 228 

Distillery manure, value of 215 

Eel worms, to prevent - 105 

Fertilizers 215 

Florists' Green 148 

Freezias 200 

Fungus in cutting bed, cure for 177 

Fumigating . II7 

Gi-een Fly, to kill 108,117 

Greenhouse Construction 1 

Benches, how made 0.11,12 

Butted glass 17 

Gutters, how to join 5 

How to attach roof to gutter k; 

Houses for summer growing 223 

Length of a house 4 

Lumber, kind to use 8,4,8,0 

Xew style of house 2S 

Outside wall, to cover 8 

Painting 14,17 

Purlin, what made of 13 

Ridge, hOAV made 

Roof, to raise 15 

Size of glass 17 

Solid bench, new method 10 

Support of ridges 13 

Short span to the south 28. 26 

Ventilation 18, 19 

In wall 20.21 

Greenhouse Heating 20 

Boiler, kiad to use 39 

Fuel lo use 311 

Heating by steam 39 



Index. v 

Greenhouse Heating.— Page 

Hot water heating -^1 

T'nder pressure 37,38 

Pipes to lay 33,3."') 

Overhead heating ^^ 

The down hill system 3ti 

The best system of heating 42,43 

Steam boiler, to set 40 

Pipes, size of 41 

Xumber of 42 

To lay 42 

Harrisii, how forced -02 

How to Scald a House 210 

Horn Shavings 219 

Hops, use of 1^^4 

How to Kepair a Brick Fire r>ox '•^2G 

Hot Water, to heat with 31 

Insect Exterminators 108,118 

Lily of the Valley, house for 201 

Forcing of "-02 

Lilium Candidum "-04 

Liquid >ranure 218 

Leaking Pipes, to stop 227 

3Iadam Hoste, treatment 140 

Meteor, temperature for l-^O 

Mortar for Fire Drick, to make 22fi 

Miscellaneous topics 209 

Mildew, how to prevent 120,123 

INIignonette. butterfly to kill 1^6 

Disease, remedy for 19" 

House, how constructed 196 

Seed, selection of 19-5 

When sown 196 

Temperature for 197 

Xai'cissus 198 

Xitrate of Soda 217 

Xiphetos, budded on 61 

Orchids . . . ■ • 206 

Best varieties to grow 208 

Overhead Heating . . . . • • 44 

Papa Gontier, treatment of 1-^4 

Pot Racks 212 

Preparation of Soil 213 

Poses 45, 46 



vi Index. 

Roses.— Page 

American lieaiit\ 54,186 

A cellar for 92,93 

Black Spot on 124, 126 

liuds. Grading and Packing 9;) 

How to cut K(;. S9 

How to preserve 91 

Catharine Mermet lol 

Club Root 102 

To prevent 105, 106 

Cultural Notes on 128,140 

Depth of soil to plant in 62 

Diseases of 119 

Forcing varieties of ... 127 

Hybrids, forcing of 141,147 

Impaired vitality 55,56,222 

La France, culture of 135 

Madam Cusin 140 

Madam Hoste 140 

Madam P. Guillott 137 

Madam Watteville 138 

Meteor 130 

3Iealy Bug, to kill 99 

Mildew, to prevent 119 

Mulching of 72,73 

Movable frame for 70, 71 

New varieties 141 

Xiphetos iss 

Papa Gontier 134 

Perle des Jardins 128 

Planting, when and how 63 

Propagating from blind wood 51,52 

Resting of 54 

Renewal of 57 

Red Spider 94,95 

Solid beds for 62 

Shading of 84, 85 

souv de Wootton 1,S9 

Staking and tying (it. 

Summer growing of 59, 60 

Varieties for 61 

Thrip 98 

The IJride 13.^ 

The Leaf Roller 98 



Index. vii 

Roses.— Page 

TheKoseUug 96,97 

Two-eyed cuttings 53 

Ventilating 77,80 

Watering "4,76 

Water, temperature of ^1 

Wliite Grub in lOl 

Wire stakes, cost of "2 

W. F. Bennett 1-^'J 

Komau Hyacinths 19S 

salt, its use 211 

Sod, wheo to cut 214 

Soil for certain varieties 47,50 

Hov\' to jirepare 213,214 

I'sed the second year 220 

Steam, to heat with 39 

Sniilax, to destroy worms on 14;t, 167 

stock for planting 50 

Tobacco extract HO 

Trough for evaporating 109 

Tulips, forcinjc of 198 

Vaporizing toljacco HI 

Vitality lost, how restored 223 

Violet, club root in 193 

Diseases of 192,195 

Fungus on 194 

House, how to build 190 

How to plant 189 

Wood ashes 216 

White grub 101,215 



PREFACE. 



Notwithstanding the fact that the industry in which 
we are engaged represents millions of capital, and that 
it gives employment to many thousands of people, 
there exists, as yet, no book which gives us information 
concerning the conduct of this great and constantly 
increasing business. 

To be sure, trade journals have been established 
within a few years, in which valuable experiences have 
appeared from time to time, but scarcely a decade has 
passed since a majority of the Avriters were themselves 
novices, groping in the dark as many a grower is obliged 
to do to-day. A few wide awake young men are to 
be found each year, giving time with some of the best 
growers. If bright and quick to observe, they are in a 
few years fitted either to conduct business for them- 
selves, or for others. To the majority, this method of 
study is not practicable, and there seems to be no way 
of mastering the business, but by stumbling on from 
year to year, making mistakes and undertaking experi- 
ments so costly in themselves, that when the lesson de- 
rived from them is learned, one finds himself in the 
possession of an experience, purchased at the cost of 
valuable time, and oftentimes with a balance on the 
wrong side of the ledger. 



ii Preface. 

Nor are those who are thus struggling along, traveling 
a new road ; it is a well beaten path, and many of us 
have pursued it so long, the years in the meantime have 
slipped away and more gray hairs than riches are left 
in their train. We have had the experience, but at 
what a cost ! 

I well remember, when a young man full of enthusi- 
asm, and at just that time of life when one knows more 
than any who have gone before, or who will ever come 
after him, having made an experiment contrary to the 
advice of those older than myself, and having had the 
mortification of seeing it fail, trying to draw consolation 
from the fact that I had the experience left, how well 
I remember my father's reply: " My son, purchased 
wit is good if not bought too dear." Well — I have been 
buying just such wit as that all my life, and it is with 
a view to assist those Avho are just entering the road 
over which I have traveled, that I have undertaken to 
chronicle the result of experinces that have come to me 
with the passing years. 

Could I have had access to the contents of this book 
fifteen years ago, no price within the limit of my means 
would have been too great for it, as it would have 
saved me thousands of dollars, and would undoubtedly 
have added some years to a life that has seen much of 
the " wear and tear " that comes from an uphill fight 
with circumstances. 

In the compiling of this volume no claim is made to 



Preface. in 

infallibility. Some of the deductions may not be in 
accord with the experience of others, but the facts have 
been stated as found by the author. Tt is a plain story, 
the result (^f a life of l)oth experience and observation. 
To the professors in our exi)eriniental stations we are 
indebted for mucli of the light already shed upon the 
diseases incident to plant life. To them, and all others 
whose opinions liave been quoted in these pages, the 
author desires to acknowledge his personal obligations. 

:m. a. hfxt. 

Terke Hai-te, January, l<S9o. 




H 

M 



^\ 



CHAPTER I. 

GREENHOUSE CONSTRUCTION. 

The first (iuestion which occurs to the thoughtful 
man, is, hoAV and where shall I build? If you are al- 
ready located in some town or city, and desire to use 
your improvements for the supply of your own retail 
trade, draw your plans with that end in view, as the 
buildings will need to be adapted to the space you 
have to fill as well as to the miscellaneous character of 
the stock you wnsh to grow. When making your plan, 
look forward to any possible future need. Let it be 
carefully studied out in such a way that it may be 
easily added to from year to year as your needs de- 
mand, and still, when a complete whole, all may come 
wdthin your original draft. 

We find many places, oftentimes of considerable 
size, so inconvenient and built at such varying angles 
as to render it almost necessary for a stranger to 
have the services of a guide, in order to find his way 
out after having once entered the intricate collection. 
Remembrances such as these bring a sigh of relief when 
one enters a well ordered, well kept range of houses. 
If you are at a loss how to plan your space yourself, 
obtain the assistance of some man of experience in 
whose good judgment you have confidence, but unless 



2 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

you want an elaborate office front, avoid the profes- 
sional architect, for as a rule architects have had no 
experience in this class of building, and their drawings 
are on too expensive a scale to be followed. 

If you are building for commercial purposes, or for 
the growth of cut flowers merely, for your own use, let 
your location be such as will embrace as many as pos- 
sible of the following requirements. These are placed 
in the order, as it seems to me, of their importance. 
Adaptability of soil, pure fresh air and sheltered loca- 
tion, nearness of fuel, proximit}^ to your intended mar- 
ket. Of soils and fuel I shall have occasion to speak 
under their separate heads. 

In locating where land is reasonable in price so that 
all that is needed may be obtained, it is well to seek 
some natural shelter from the prevailing winds, and in 
the absence of such shelter protect your buildings by 
artificial means, such as the planting of evergreen trees. 
Select such trees as will grow to a good height, and 
when strong winds come you will find it a great pro- 
tection. Having settled these preliminaries as best you 
can, decide how well you wish to build, but do not 
make the mistake of trying to make money go too far; 
it is better to build one house fairly well than to build 
two so cheaply that their term of service will be short. 

If you are able to build of iron you will find firms 
who make the building of such houses a specialty. To 
the man of moderate means, however, I believe there is 



Greenhouse Construction. 3 

a happy medium between these costly iron structures 
and the cheap, short-lived buildings we so often meet, 
in the construction of which there is no economy. 

If you are in a location where lumber is cheap, and 
where all that is needed in l)uilding can be readily 
obtained, it will of course be to your interest to patron- 
ize your home market ; but even in this case, it will 
doubtless save you time and money to order your roof 
of some person or firm making a specialty of this class 
of work, Avhose advertisements may be found in the 
trade journals. In regard to the kind of lumber to use, 
the part just referred to is at the present time mostly 
made of cypress, and is, probably, as cheap and durable 
as any. At the present writing, I am repairing houses 
built ten years since, the roofing of w^hich was white 
pine, and with few exceptions, the indications would 
seem to be that the sash bars are good for ten years 
more. Whatever kind of wood you select for the roof, 
gutters and posts, discard every piece showing any sap, 
as it will soon decay and destroy the whole or render 
repairs necessary at an early date. The desirability of 
building houses three-fourths span with a south expo- 
sure, has been unquestioned by all the best growers. 
The general impression seems to be no other pitch 
can give as good results in December and January, 
the months when cut flowers pay the best. If 
properl}^ constructed as regards ventilation, the tem- 
perature can be kept under control during the warm 



4 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

months nearly as well as if built in other form, thus 
insuring the greatest product possible during the 
months of scarcity. The theory of reversing these con- 
ditions, and facing the long span from the sun, has 
not yet been sufficiently proved to be able to speak defi- 
nitely of the advantages claimed for it. 

In regard to the length of a house. For convenience 
and equal temperature 150 feet is as long as any house 
should be built, and I consider 125 feet preferable. 
For Avidth, 18 feet, but some prefer 20 in order to have 
a walk through tlie middle bench. This width makes 
it necessary to support the roof with two sets of pur- 
lins, while one is sufficient in an 18 foot house, if the 
bars are of suitable strength and the glass not over 14 
inches wide. Glass 14x20 is a very desirable size, and 
if of double strength and the best American make, it 
is good enough. Since natural gas has been used in its 
manufacture, its quality has greatly increased. 

For posts I would use 6x6 red cedar if it is possible to 
obtain them ; if not, then locust, chestnut or white oak. 
Mark out your corners, set your long posts one at each 
end, stretch two lines one near the top and the other 
at the base. Mark for the holes so the posts will not 
be farther than four feet from centre to centre. If in or- 
dinary firm soil, dig two and one-half feet deep, and 
set the posts to the lines. Should the soil be soft or 
spongy, dig the hole three feet deep, and at the bottom 
place a flat stone. If this is not at hand, fill the first 



Greenhouse Construction. 



six inches with concrete. Smooth the surface of this 
and let it harden before setting the posts. If it is de- 
sired to carry the water which comes from the roof to 
any given point, the house should have a fall of at least 
six inches to 100 feet. Mark the height of your wall on 
the corner posts, and stretch a taut line from post to 
post by which mark each for sawing. This is necessary 
if there is any fall in the house, as in this case the posts 
will not cut square on their outside face. As a finish 
for the top of the posts as well as for the formation of 
a gutter, the most simple as well as the most durable 
methods are the following. If the house does not 
have another joined to it on either side, saw the posts 




rig. 2. 
to the same bevel as the pitch of your roof. Take two 
inch plank twelve inches wide, straighten and bring 
them to a width, square and split the ends with a 



6 



How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 



saw to a depth of one and one-eighth inches. Into 
this groove drive a piece of band iron two inches by 
one-eighth, and this will form a tenon, when the 
plank are driven together in a continuous line. This 




Fig. 3. 



Greenhouse Construction. 



will make them water-tight at the joints, if they have 
been well leaded belore putting together, and it 
does not matter whether the joints come directly over 
a post or not, as the iron tenons will prevent all warp- 
ing. See Fig. 2. To form a gutter in this way, where 
houses do not join each other, take two by six-inch 
plank, size them, and after having painted the edges 
to be joined with good thick paint, bolt them on the 



9 



Fig. 4. 

lower edge with four-inch lag screws. See Fig. 3. These 
pieces can be butted together and the joint secured as 
described in Fig. 2. 

The other form where houses join, is to give the top of 



8 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

the posts a square cut, after which place on them plank 
as described for the other, on either edge of which bolt 
two by four pieces that have been dressed on either 
side and run through a sticker to form the top bevel. 
See Fig. 4. Throughout the northern states I think as 
good lumber as can be used in this construction is white 
pine, and it need not be first clear, as small knots are 
no detriment, and the sides can be selected from first- 
class 2x4, being careful that there is no sap on any of 
them. After the posts are sawed, begin at one end 
with the first piece of gutter. Spike this to the end 
post and brace it well, after which bring on each suc- 
ceeding piece, driving each joint together as you pro- 
ceed, and when all are in place, straighten them to a 
line, and fasten securely by spiking to the posts. 

For the first covering of the wall, use ship lap or 
common flooring. Place this with the smooth side in, 
and with the joint so that no water can find lodgment 
in it from the interior of the house; cover with heavy 
building paper (use none that has tar on it) and fasten 
the same by nailing lath up and down over each post. 
When finished, this will give a hollow space in the 
wall half an inch in thickness, which is as good pro- 
tection against frost as would be a wider space. For an 
outside covering drop siding is preferable, as it not only 
makes a good finish, but being tongued and grooved, 
excludes all air. Use two by eight for the ridge, and 
when ordering, have a groove three-eighths of an 



Greenhouse Construction. 9 

inch deep and of equal width made for the reception 
of the glass, letting the same be at such a distance 
from the lower edge, that when the bars are in place, 
the under surface of both the bars and the ridge will 



-*^- 



■Tttr 



u 



Fig. 5. 

be fair. See Fig. 5. This permits the ridge to rise five 
inches above the bars, which will be found of great ad- 
vantage when ventilators open at the top. 

With the walls complete, it saves labor to construct 
the benches before putting on the roof, as they can 
usually be utilized as staging for the superstructure. 
In the construction of benches there are many kinds of 
material used. Wood or gas pipe for uprights, slate 
or tile for the floor. The method adopted will de- 
pend mainly upon the amount of money one has to 
put into their construction. If wood is used for up- 
rights, it is not advisable to use anything but the best 
cedar, but if this is not at hand, locust, chestnut, 
white oak or cypress according to their availability. 

Fig. 6 show^ the usual mode of bench construction in 
three fourths span houses. This method of building has 
long been deemed necessary in northern latitudes. 



10 



How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 




Fig. 6. 

A noted grower near New York has recentl}^ built 
a few houses upon a plan differing materially from 
that of any others. The frame is iron, built in the 
usual way — three-fourths span. The north and south 
walls, as well as the ends, are also constructed of glass 
to within two feet of the ground, and with side venti- 
lation in both Avails. The house is twenty feet in 
width, with two benches, the sides of which are two 
feet deep. A path runs all around the hou&e between 
the walls and benches. There is also a path between 
the beds. The main peculiarity consists in the construc- 
tion of the beds. The first sixteen inches is made of 
broken stone, through the center of which three one- 
inch steam pipes pass at such distances from each other 



Greenhouse Construction. 



11 



as to best equalize the distribution of heat. This foun- 
dation is then covered with eight inches of soil in 
which the roses are planted. The following claim is 
made for this method. Heat being applied to the 
broken stone by means of the pipes passing through it, 
renders it possible to use water freely during Novem- 
ber and December, and this overcomes, in a measure, 
the difficulty experienced in inciting a rapid growth 
during those months by the usual methods. The 
writer would only add that in February it was his 
pleasure to examine these houses, and the growth of 
foliage would seem to substantiate the claim made. 




Fig. 7. 

Another method of bench construction, as shown in 
Fig. 7, is preferred by some, as it gives more head 
room to tall, strong growing varieties. This is built 
on ground which falls to the south one inch to a foot. 



12 



How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 



Gas pipe in bench construction, though expensive 
at first, is durable. So also is that made of rejected 
street car rails, and when such can be obtained at the 
cost of old iron they are not very expensive. Angle 
iron has also been used by some, but one grower who 
built with it tells me he thinks its life not long enough 
to repay the outlay, as it rusts and scales rapidly.. 

Whatever the method adopted, let no part of the 
weight of the bench be borne by the walls. This is of 
great importance. The side benches can be fastened 
to the walls as a means of bracing, but shores should 
be provided to carry the benches, otherwise the weight 
will soon throw the gutter out of a straight Hue. For 
the bottoming of benches, nothing in my estimation, 
is better than the most lasting kinds of wood. For 
pot growing, either slate or tile may be the most 
economical in the end, but for cut flowers, tile slabs 
dry so quickly as to make their use hazardous in un- 
skilled hands. 




Fig. 8. 



Greenhouse Construction. 



13 



For a purlin, inch pipe is neat and strong. See Fig. 8. 
Let it be supported by uprights every eight feet, and 
see that they rest on a solid base, a stone or small brick 
pier. Before glazing, the purlin should be fastened to 
each bar by means of screws and a narrow band of 
sheet iron or tin. The ridge should be supported by 
inch and a quarter pipe. Iron plates are kept in stock 



-^irx. 



\^ZJ 



Fig. 9. 



by builders which can be fastened to the ridge and the 
pipe secured to them by a thread. In the absence of 
these, substitutes may be easily made of hard wood as 
shown in Fig. 9. A hole of suitable size is bored in 



14 How TO Gkow Cut Flowers. 

the wood to receive the thread of the pipe, and the 
wood is then fastened by means of screws to the ridge. 
Before putting up any part of the roof the whole 
should have two good coats of paint. First, a priming 
coat of the best white lead and oil, but for the second, 
1 have for several years used Lowe Bros, outside white, 
and find it superior to lead, for the reason that in man- 
ufacturing, lead is corroded with an acid which causes 
it to decompose and to rub or wash off on exposure to 
sun and storm. This is the only firm whose mixed 
paints I like, and any one using this for the last 
coat will find it superior to the best lead. Two grades 
of white are made, inside and outside white. For all 
work in our line that designated as outside white should 
be used. On the long roof, bars 2|xlf inches are a 
good size, and for the short roof, 2xlf inches are heavy 
enough. To frame them, place in a mitre box and cut 
both ends before moving the bar, so that all shall be of 
a uniform length, cutting the foot square and the top 
to the bevel of the roof. Notch the under side of the 
foot If inches in length by a depth that shall leave the 

L =^ 

Fig. 10. 

timber between shoulders If inches. See Fig. 10. After 
all are framed, before joining them, stand the lower 
ends in tubs of boiled linseed oil, three inches deep, and 
when dry give the whole two good coats of paint. 



Greenhouse Construction. 15 

To erect the roof commence at one end of the build- 
ing, raise one length of the ridge, putting bars on 
either side at each end, fasten those at the end of the 
building permanently, the others temporaril}^, so that 
should your ridge not be straight, it can be lowered or 
raised as you proceed to place the bars in position. 
When using a continuous ventilator let one-third of 
the bars run to the roof — and these should be put up 
first — in doing which use a gauge sufficiently long to 
allow for three rows of glass with their short bars 
between. 

As soon as one section of ridge is complete, plumb it 
by drawing a line from plate to plate at the base of the 
first set of bars, dropping a plumb line from the top of 
the same bar and vary until the lines touch. Brace se- 
curely and proceed to erect in the same manner the rest 
of the roof. After setting the long bars have some head- 



Fig. 11. 
ers prepared (Fig. 11), of suitable length and thickness 
to fill in between them, for the support of the shorter 
bars on the same side, and if the upper surface of this 
header is as wide as can be made from two inch stock 
it will serve to hinge the ventilators on if they are to 
open at the top. With a short gauge (See Fig. 12), 
set your shorter bars. Fill in between these, where 



16 



How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 






Fig. 12. 

they rest on the plate, with pieces prepared for the 
purpose, cutting them to their place one by one, for as 
there will be a slight variation in the distance between 
the bars these pieces cannot all be cut to a length before- 
hand. See Fig. 13. Dip the freshly cut ends in paint 




Fig. 13. 

and fasten in place. Then run a gauge from the inner 
surface of these that will mark one-fourth of an inch 
from the edge and two inches from each bar, drive 
heavy one inch wire nails for the end of the first glass 
to rest against, and after the purlin is in place and 
fastened, you are ready to glaze. 



Greeniiofse Coxstrt'ction. 



1 




Fig. 14. 

Where the glass is not 



Double thick glass, 14x20, is too heav}^ to lap in the 
usual way and keep in place. Neither is butted glass 
desirable on account of the great amount of leakage, 
but this can be obviated 
by using a zinc joint, an 
invention of Mr. J. M. 
Gasser, of Cleveland, Ohio. 
See Fig. 14. I have used 
these for several seasons, 
as I have been repairing, 
and like them very much, 
lapped, as is the case when these joints are used, the 
putty can be applied to the bars with a machine, saving 
the work of two men ; and again, after the glass is set, 
the corners can be drawn on the outside by the same 
process, filling an}- space there may be at the edge of 
the glass, thus making a perfectly tight roof. As fast 
as the glass is laid it should be fastened with glazier's 
points, No. 00, as its weight will otherwise cause it to 
buckle and slide. 

I once heard a careless workman say, " paint and 
putty are great rectifiers," and while open joints are to 
be deprecated, should they occur through accident or 
otherwise, see that they are carefully filled, and that all 
nails about the gutters are well set and the holes puttied 
before giving the final coat of paint. Every season as 
the houses are replanted, the gutters, both inside and 
out, as well as the foot of the bars where they join the 



18 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

gutter, should be given a coat of paint. All the roof 
work should be given a thorough cleaning and painting 
once in two years, and some consider it economy to 
paint thoroughly every year, because every particle of 
light that can be obtained during the winter months is 
desirable, and both cleaning and painting add so largely 
to this result, that one or both should be adopted. 



CHAPTER 11. 

VENTILATION, HOW CONSTRUCTED. 
First, 1 would have it continuous on the south roof, 
and from 20 to 36 inches wide. Never ventilate on the 
north side unless hinged at the top, otherwise, when 
open, the sun will be admitted in such a way as to 
burn the plants on the north bench. An error of this 
kind will necessitate the protection of the bench by 
shading with some thin material like cheese cloth 
under the ventilator, and as far as the opening extends, 
as the writer has found from experience. These con- 
tinuous ventilators can be made of various lengths, 
according to the size of glass used. It is usual to 
hinge them at the bottom, and if the upper edges are 
doweled, all will move alike when raised, and the open- 
ing will be uniform throughout the entire length of the 
house. For raising and lowering this there is but one 



Ventilation. 19 

^vay, and that by some of the various machines con- 
structed for the purpose. 

In addition to this, I would have at least eight ven- 
tilators on the north side of a house 125 feet long, if con- 
tinuous ventilation is not used on this side. These 
can be made in the form of sash, and of varying sizes, 
according to the size of glass used. Hinge these at 
Xhe ridge and they will be found exceedingly conven- 
ient in airing when the wind is blowing from the south, 
also .for maintaining a low summer temperature. As 
these ventilators will rest on the top of the bars, they 
can be made wind-tight by fastening a continuous 
piece of quarter round on their under surface, in such a 
manner that when shut, the round will be inside the 
opening, thus covering any crack or opening made by 
the warping or springing of the ventilator. It not be- 
ing necessary to use these small ventilators as often as 
the main ones, it is optional with the builder as to the 
best way of raising or lowering them. If it is not 
deemed desirable to run two lines of shafting, they can 
be opened and closed in the old way, by means of an 
iron lift, in which holes have been made at varying 
distances. But whatever the method, I would not be 
without them, as they are needed from July to Novem- 
ber. Still another and a better way — if it can be af- 
forded — is to have continuous ventilators on each side, 
making each ventilator of a suitable width to receive 
one light twenty inches long. Hang these at the ridge 



20 



How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 



for rose houses, and you will always have a system that 
will be the best possible preventive of mildew, so far 
as ventilating is concerned, while both openings can 
be used to advantage through the heated term. This of 
course necessitates two lines of shafting and a double 
apparatus for lifting the two lines of ventilators. For 
carnations I would advise continuous ventilators three 
feet in width, the south one to open at the ridge, the 
north one to be hung to the ridge. These, with wall 
ventilation on either side will give a fine circulation 
of air. 




Fig. 15. 



For summer work in houses adapted to the growth 
of cut flowers, I consider wall ventilation indispensa- 
ble, and for this reason would never join houses used 



Ventilation. 21 

for this purpose, but place them far enough apart so 
that the ridge of one will not shade the south bench of 
the one north of it during the short days of winter. On 
level ground they should be from 15 to 18 feet apart, 
according to their height, but if on a slope the distance 
can be lessened in proportion to its declivity. Each 
house should be connected at one end with a work 
room, and if several houses are built it is very conven- 
ient to have this room in the centre, but its roof should 
be low in order that it may produce the least amount of 
shade. While building the walls, if such ventilation 
cannot be provided as in Fig. 16, put in at least every 12 
feet, a frame 12 inches wide in the clear, and of a length 
that will fill the space between two posts. See Fig. 15. 
This frame should be of sufficient depth to admit of a 
temporary filling on the inside for winter use, while 
the door for the outside may be constructed of the same 
material as the rest of the wall, and hinged so that when 
shut it shall be fair with its face. These side ventila- 
tors should be placed in both the north and south walls, 
and directly against the line of pipes, but under rather 
than over them. In this way, they can be used at 
times of the year when the air as it enters the house 
will be tempered by passing over the pipes. This is 
of course on the supposition that the pipes are filled 
with water that has not had time to cool. 

One grower has recently built a house, in the north 
wall of which he has placed at intervals of 20 feet, reg- 



22 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

ular doors. These are 6x2^ feet, and instead of being 
placed up and down in the wall are horizontal, and 
as high as can be opened and swing under the eaves. 
These are for the double purpose of ventilation, and 
for convenience in emptying and filling the benches. 

Where houses are needed exclusively for the sum- 
mer growing of cut flowers a roof of equal span and 
irom 1 1 to 12 feet in width is preferable. These can be 
built in the same way as already described, only that 
I would make all the rafters the full length of the roof, 
and have the ventilation continuous on both sides, 
hanging each line at the ridge. I do noflike a western 
exposure for any house, and think the sun takes 
stronger effect on such a house from 1 to 5 P. M. in 
summer, than it does from 10 to 2 o'clock on a south- 
ern face. The best varieties to plant for the purpose 
of summer flowering and their treatment will be de- 
scribed hereafter. 



The Short Span to the South. 23 

CHAPTER III. ^ 
THE SHORT SPAN TO THE SOUTH. 

Fig. 16 gives a good idea of the latest style of build- 
ing. This is from a photograph of two houses built last 
fall by the well known carnation grower, Mr. Fred Dor- 
ner, of La Fayette, Ind. If lack of ground space renders 
it necessary to build continuously, this plan will give 
less shade than when reversed, but if necessary to build 
together, it would be far better not to join more than 
two houses as seen in the illustration. This will adm.it 
of wall ventilation on each side of the two. 

This innovation upon existing and tried methods has 
been viewed with great incredulity by the profession at 
large, and I must confess that I have also been skeptic- 
al as to its practicability. It is unquestioned, however, 
that mere prejudice should not deter us from surround- 
ing ourselves with whatever wdll contribute to the high- 
est success, and this has led me to investigate the new 
system by visiting some who have adopted it. I am 
told on good authority— though I have not visited the 
place — that the gentleman with whom the idea origin- 
ated, and who had such phenomenal success the first 
season, has since changed growers, and that this success 
passed out of the same door and at the same time, as 
did the man under whose watchful eye it w^as obtained. 
However this may be, there are some features in tliis 
mode of construction which commend themselves while 




CO 

rH 



24 



The Short Span to the South. 25 

there are others which awaken distrust; nor will the 
objection produced by these features be removed from 
the mind without further investigation and trial. 

The claim for this method of building is, that the 
short span and the sun are at right angles during the 
shortest days, and that this position admits the greatest 
amount of sunlight and warmth, while the more either 
the sun or glass vary fi'om a right angle, just in that 
proportion are the sun's rays deflected and the heat less- 
ened. The feeling of the sun upon the face and person 
as it comes through the sharp roof, is both marked and 
pleasant, as compared .with that of a roof at the com- 
mon angle, and so far as appearances go, would seem to 
prove the theory correct. The roof being so steep, snow 
cannot remain upon it, and it is quickly free from frost 
on a sunny day, though the air is keen outside. Added 
to this is the fact that owing to the sharpness of the 
roof the strain on the bars lessens as they approach the 
perpendicular, rendering it possible to use less wood 
and more glass, thus securing the maximum amount 
of light. 

On the other hand, if the weather is severe the north 
roof is a sheet of snow and frost, and this is removed 
only as the heat from the interior melts it, no rays of 
the sun touching its exterior surface during the en- 
tire day. This state of things of course causes the plants 
to turn toward the light, but how much it has a tend- 
ency to draw them in long continued cold weather, the 
writer is unable to say. 



26 



How TO Grow Cut Flowe 



RS. 



My visit to Mr. Dorner was during the severe weather 
of January, and at that time I suggested to him a trial 
of temperature between this and a three-fourths span 
house, on some day when artificial heat could be dis- 
pensed with. Under date of January 30th he gives me 
the following result : " On the basis of the temperature 
being the same in both houses fifteen minutes after 
steam was shut off, the house having the short span to 
the south at the end of an hour had gained six de~ 
grees on the other, the test being made by keeping the 
thermometer in the shade." 




Fig. 17. 

At another place visited by the writer where this 
method is being used, a portion of the benefit sought 
was lost through faulty construction, the gutters being 
so high as to cast a shade of six feet at 3 P. M. This, 
together with the result of observations elsewhere, leads 



The Short Span to the South. 27 

me to the conclusion that were I to build a house for 
myself as an experiment, it Avould be as shown by an 
end view in Fig. 17. Nothing should join it on either 
side, and if for carnations, it should have wall ventila- 
tion on each side, and continuous on both the north 
and south roof, the south ventilator being hinged at 
the bottom, the north at the top. For roses, the same 
in every respect save that both continuous ventilators 
would be hinged at the ridge. 

Mr. Dorner feels that he obtains more light during 
the short days under the new system than with the 
old, and about the only criticism I could find when 
there, aside from the frost on the long roof, was that the 
south gutter cast a shade during the latter part of the 
day on benches built low enough to be handy. This 
could be obviated by lowering the south gutter as far 
as it can be and leave room for a foot of ventilation be- 
tween it and the ground. 

With all the facts it has been possible to obtain up 
to the present time, for my own use I would not feel 
justified in changing the old style for the ncAV until the 
latter has been more thoroughly tested. 

Still another plan is advocated by some, which does 
away with the objection found in the system last men- 
tioned, so far as snow and frost are concerned. I know 
of but one grower who has adopted this style of build- 
ing, but there may be others. This gentleman thinks 
he finds in it the advantages claimed for the former 



28 



How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 



method, with none of its disadvantages. Fig. 18 gives 
an end view of this house. Dimensions, 16 feet inside 
measurement between posts. Height to under side of 
ridge, 14 feet. Walls 2 feet 6 inches. 




Fig. 18 

If the side benches are used for planting, they should 
be built as near the ground as possible and have a space 
of two or three inches between the ground and the bot- 
tom of the bench. Two pipes are hung on each wall, and 
the radiation from them is prevented from reaching the 
plants by ceiling the back of each side bench about 18 
inches. This will also prevent "air from the side vent- 
ilators from coming in direct contact with the plants. 
If large glass is used, each roof should be supported by 



Greenhouse Heating. 29 

purlins of one-inch gas pipe, and braces of the same 
material can be made to support them by connecting 
them with the iron supports of the roof, which should 
be of two-inch pipe. Seven pipes for heating are used 
in this house, one of which is in the roof, three feet 
below the ridge through which the flow is carried, re- 
turning in six pipes of the same size, as seen in Fig. 18. 
Instead of facing directly south, if built to face s. s. 
east, it is claimed that both the morning and afternoon 
sun will have the greatest effect, or rather, will be more 
equally divided. 

I should hesitate to build in this way, unless the two 
side benches could be used for small pot plants. In 
this case, if these were built two feet wide and near the 
glass, it would permit of an eight foot bench in the 
middle of the house which would no doubt do splendid 
work. 



CHAPTER IV. 

GREENHOUSE HEATING. 
The problem connected with this much agitated 
question, has been solved to the entire satisfaction of 
the advocates of the different systems time and time 
again, and still, one who would commence anew is as 
much in the dark as ever, as to which is the best for 
him to adopt. Climate, fuel and space enter largely 
into the decision of the question in each- individual 



80 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

case. There is no question but that the ideal method 
is by steam generated by natural gas, both for its clean- 
liness as well as the ease with which it is cared for when 
once in working order. To only a few highly favored 
individuals has this great boon been given, while the 
rest of us must see much of the profits roll into the 
furnace in the form of " trust " anthracite, or if we seek 
a cheaper article and fall back upon bituminous coal, 
we are not only sufierers ourselves, but our neighbors, 
if we have any, proclaim us a nuisance. But notwith- 
standing dust, dirt, and ribald tongue, we must each 
burn what is the most economical, for the profits are 
not large, as many suppose them to be, and our product 
must enter the markets in competition with that of 
men of wealth to whom it matters little whether their 
investment paj^s expenses or not, so long as they per- 
sonalh^ have what the}^ wish to use, and can sell enough 
to help out on the salary of the gardener. 

The question of fuel must largely control the kind 
of boiler we adopt. If natural gas, then a marine will 
be found to be a great heat producer. If anthracite, 
such as have proved to be the most economical in the 
sections where that coal is used. If bituminous, such 
boilers must be selected as will produce the best com- 
bustion and thus aid the fireman in his efforts to keep 
the smoke at a minimum. 

The original method of heating, now nearly obsolete, 
was by means of brick flues, and while the njore common 



Hot Water Heating. Bl 

plants can be grown in this manner, for fine work this 
method is useless, and unworthy the space necessary to 
describe it. 



CHAPTER V. 

HOT WATER HEATIKG. 

Hot water is used in three forms. The first and 
original method of laying pipes, consisted in having 
the flow rise gradually from the boiler to the extreme 
end of the house, a rise of one foot in one hundred be- 
ing deemed sufhcient. At this point an expansion or 
standpipe was usually placed, and from it the water 
returned to the boiler in another set of pipes, having 
the same fall as the flow had elevation. 

The pipe used in this system is four-inch cast iron 
in lengths of about five feet, and a quick and durable 
way to put this together is as follows : 

Buy a coil of eight strand, inch and a quarter hemp 
rope. Cut this in lengths that will allow a strand to 
go twice around the pipe. Put this once around the 
joint and tamp it lightly. Between this and the next 
layer of hemp, put about the same quantity of Portland 
cement as you have of rope. The cement should be of 
the consistency of good putty. Tamp in another strand 
of hemp. This, when well tamped, will fill the joint 



32 



How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 



Avithin about half an inch of the top. After putting 
together several joints in this way, finish with cement 
in the same way as you would if you were using red 
lead, and you will have a much cheaper joint, and one 
that will be as durable as any, providing care is taken 
to use nothing but the best Portland cement 

It will be obvious to any builder, that the rests should 
be in position and the pipe all laid before the benches 
are erected. The number of pipes necessary will depend 
of course on the location. Seven is none too many, 
and eight for all localities north of the fortieth parallel, 



"Cr 



-xy- 



Tir 




W> HM 



Tzr 



^ 



"D 



m 



Fig. 19. 

the house being eighteen or twenty feet in width. The 
first cost is a little more, but it insures fully against 
great falls in temperature to which all sections are 
liable, and while five pipes will do the work in ordinary 
weather, there are a few days in nearly every season 



Hot Water Heating. 33 

when they will all be needed, and the saving effected 
by not having the plants given a check, will oftentimes 
in one season compensate for the extra expense. 

To lay these pipes, carry one flow nearly to the ex- 
treme end of your north bench (See Fig. 19), and re- 
turn it in two pipes laid directly south of it. Put a 
valve on this flow at some convenient point near where 
it enters the house, and these three pipes can be used 
at will. Carry another flow under the south side of the 
same bench to within one foot of the extreme end, put 
on an ell and carry across the end of the house, bring- 
the water back under the south bench in four pipes, 
and wdien these approach the boiler they may be 
united in one and returned to it in that form. 

In this way you have your heat on the outside of 
your house for the entire distance, leaving the space 
under the middle bench clear and free. I have noticed 
that if the circulation is carried up and down a house 
without crossing the end farthest from the boiler, sev- 
eral feet of that end will be cooler than any other part 
of the house, causing dampness to be driven there, and 
a consequent condensation of moisture on the foliage 
during the night, which will soon cause the leaves to 
fall. 

The inlets to a boiler should always be greater than 
the outlet, and it is customary to use them in the pro- 
portion of a four-inch outlet or flow to two inlets or re- 
turns of the same size. If the boiler is of suitable ca- 



34 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

pacity to carry several houses, it will facilitate the circu- 
lation to have the outlet six inches, and carried by a 
pipe of the same size as a header, from which all the 
four-inch flows may be taken. 

Should it seem advisable to adopt this, as it is termed 
" the up hill system," it will be necessary to observe 
four things : 

First. That your boiler is set low enough, so that the 
point from which the water flows out of it shall be at 
least twelve inches lower than where the flow pipe 
commences to return to the boiler. 

Second. That at the highest point of the flow there 
be a vent for the escape of air. This may be provided 
for by a regulation stand pij e. A simple way is to 
tap the casting at that point and screw into it a half 
inch gas pipe, letting its end be a few inches higher 
than your expansion tank, or by a simple pet cock 
which can be opened and closed at will. 

Third. That neither the flow nor return be allowed 
to make short dips or depressions from the settling of 
the rests, as by this means the circulation is sometimes 
impeded, but that the pipes be so graded that the rise 
and fall will be as nearly uniform as possible. 

Fourth. That what is called an "expansion tank" 
be placed at some convenient point near the boiler. 
This may vary in size from one-fourth to a full barrel, 
according to the amount of pipe it is expected to serve, 
a barrel being as large as will be needed for any ordi- 



Hot Water Heating. 35 

nary sized boiler. Connect this barrel by means of an 
inch pipe with your return just before it enters the 
boiler, and all waste of water in the circulation can 
be supplied from this point. Should the flow at its 
highest point not be supplied with a stand pipe, it is 
best to tap the flow as it leaves the boiler, inserting an 
inch pipe and carrying it over and just into the top of 
the expansion tank. This will not only allow air to 
escape, but should the fires be crowded so that steam 
is generated, it can escape at this point and what is 
termed " kicking" pipes will be avoided. As to the 
height of this tank, the bottom of it should always be 
higher than the highest part of any of the pipes. 



CHAPTER VI. 
THE DOWN HILL SYSTEM. 

The second system of hot water heating is what is 
called the "down hill system," and differs from the one 
just described in that the water is raised to the highest 
point at once, and from that point gradually falls until 
it reaches the boiler again. This gives an opportunity 
for overhead heating, which for some crops is beneficial, 
while to others it is detrimental. 

To lay these pipes, commence with the flow, raising 
it perpendicularly from the boiler, to such a height 
as will permit you to carry the main from which your 



36 



How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 



flows are taken, over your doorways. From your 
highest upright point, let the pipes fall gradually all 
the way round. If you use a barrel for expansion, let 
the bottom of it be a little above the top of the flow. 
Connect it with the return as described already, tapping 




Fier. 20. 
the highest point on the flow pipe and carrying thence 
an inch pipe over and into the top of the barrel. See 
Fig. 20. 

It is also well to have one or more pet cocks at other 
points, in order to facilitate the exit of air when filling 
the pipes. 



Hot Water Under Pressure. 37 

Two things can be said in favor of this system. It 
permits of setting the boiler on the surface of the 
ground. It can be used in the growth of such crops as 
are benefited bv overhead heat. 



CHAPTER VII. 
HOT WATER UNDER PRESSURE. 

The third system is that of hot water underpressure, 
and requires that both pipe and boiler be of wrought 
iron, if the pressure is over twenty pounds. 

Tw^o inch gas pipes are commonly used for this and 
they may be laid as already described, on the "down 
hill " plan ; but for this no expansion tank is required. 

This system is practicable only when it can be con- 
nected with water pressure, either public or private, 
and should not be less than ten pounds as indicated by 
a steam gauge. 

If you have city water works, carry an inch pipe from 
the coldest part of your boiler— w^hich is usually the 
rear and near the bottom— connecting the same at some 
convenient point with the hydrant. This will consti- 
tute your expansion tank, and the amount of pressure 
you can carry on your boiler without emptying it, will 
be a fraction less than a gauge will indicate as being the 
pressure of the hydrant w^ater. 

If a higher degree of pressure is maintained on the 



38 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

boiler than the water works give, the result Avill be to 
emj^ty your boiler and pipes into the hydrant. While 
a valve is essential on the pipe connecting the hydrant 
with the boiler, it must always he left open when the boiler 
is in use. Do not commit the error of a brother florist 
who was also searching for "purchased wit," and be- 
cause the fire was moving the water towards and into 
the hydrant, shut the valve! — the result of his experi- 
ment being, that the next time he looked at his boiler 
the pressure was above danger point, and had not vent 
been given at once and the fire raked out, boiler, houses 
and all would have traveled skywards. 

To insure a free circulation, connect a stand pipe 
with the flow at its highest point near the boiler. 
This should be of the same size as the pipe with which 
it is connected, and from three to five feet long. Close 
the top securely, tap and screw into its highest point 
an automatic air cock, in order that all air may be ex- 
pelled as fast as it gathers. 

Marvelous figures were given, a few years since, of 
the saving in pipe by this method over the other two, 
but experience does not substantiate them. I have 
found seven two-inch pipes none too many to maintain 
a temperature of 65 degrees in a house twelve feet wide, 
and for one eighteen feet wide, sixteen are used. This 
is more than twice the amount of pipe needed when 
the circulating medium is steam. 



Heating by Steam. 8& 

CHAPTER VIII. 

HEATING BY STEAM. 

The fourth and last system is that of steam. To give 
all the various methods advocated for steam heating 
would of itself require a larger volume than this. For 
this reason only a few general principles can be given, 
leaving the builder to apply them to any particular 
system he may choose to adopt. 

First, the boiler should have a power of at least 50 
per cent, in excess of what will be demanded of it in 
all ordinary weather, and more is better. What is true 
of this, is true of all heat generators. Time and coal 
are largely economized by having a capacity for heat 
far in excess of the need. For instance, if you are sat- 
isfied a boiler costing $300 will do your work with close 
attention, add $200 more to it and let your lire burn 
naturally, thus reducing much coal to ashes that other- 
wise would go out of the stoke hole in the form of coke 
and charred coal. These rules apply in the main to 
boilers in which a cheap grade of bituminous coal is 
used. Having had less experience in burning anthracite 
I cannot speak intelligently of its requirements. 

It is not uncommon for a boiler, especially if old or 
second hand, to fail at a time when needed most, and 
it is mistaken economy to ever set any but those newly 
made, and in which the best of material has been used. 
Even in this case, some prefer to insure themselves 
against loss by setting two, each of them being of suffi- 



40 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

cient capacity to do the work required, but so con- 
nected that a change can be made at short notice in 
case a flue should collapse, or for any other reason one 
should become disabled. Many years ago, an accident 
of this kind occurred with the writer, and had it not 
been that it was during a "January thaw" when the 
thermometer did not fall below (iO at any time during 
the six days required for repairs, it would have been a 
serious matter and resulted in great loss. At the time 
alluded to, tlie work was being done by one thirty horse 
power locomotive boiler. One morning a crack was 
found in the crown sheet, from which water enough 
soon escaped to render firing impossible. Examination 
developed the fact that between the bars which held it 
in position, a deposit of scale and mud had formed, suf- 
ficient to prevent water from reaching the sheet and 
counteracting the heat of the fire. This fact is cited to 
show that whatever our heating system, boilers should 
be carefully examined every season before commencing 
a winter's work. 

The second thing to be observed is the setting of 
your boiler. A perfect circulation of steam should be 
obtained with a pressure of two pounds or less, and it 
is desirable to return the condensation directly to the 
boiler without the intervention of traps or pumps of 
any kind. To do this, it is necessary to have the boiler 
lower than the return pipes. If you are building on 
descending ground, have your boiler pit at the lowest 



Heating by Steam. 41 

point. If on level ground, let your pit be deep enough 
so the top of the boiler will be two or three feet lower 
than are your returns at any point where they leave 
your liouses and are connected with a main ready to 
be dropped perpendicularly or otherwise, and be con- 
nected with the boiler at its lowest point. This will 
give a fall of from six to ten feet according to the size 
and kind of boiler you use, and is essential to a perfect 
circulation. 

Third, see that your main pipe from which all the 
lesser mains are fed, is of sufficient size. A boiler of 
sufficient capacity to feed 10,000 feet of IJ inch pipe 
should have a six-inch distributing main 15 feet long, 
when it may be reduced to 4 inches, and this should 
extend as far as the combined width of your houses, 
whether you feed them all from one end, or whether 
the distribution is made each way from a central house. 
The size of the connecting mains will depend upon the 
length and size of the house. Two inches is sufficient 
to feed six two-inch returns, or nine one and one-quarter 
inch. If radiation is not wanted from this pipe it, as 
well as the six-inch, should be well protected by some 
of the best forms of covering. The main which feeds 
the house should be carried" to its extreme end and 
from that point distributed into as many returns as 
are necessary to keep the temperature at the degree 
desired. For a house eighteen feet wide one two- 
inch flow and six two-inch returns, or one two-inch 



42 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

flow and nine one and one-quarter inch returns will 
maintain a temperature of 60° when the outside tem- 
perature is twenty below zero. 

From the point where the main feed leaves the four 
or six inch pipe, all the pipes should have a fall until 
connected again with the boiler, and the point where 
they emerge from the house on their return should be 
supplied with air cocks. These should all be closed as 
soon as circulation is fully established. As the returns 
emerge from the houses connect them with a three- 
inch pipe, but place this last named pipe below the 
water line of the boiler before the returns are connected 
with it. It can then be joined to the base of the boiler. 
Although not absolutely necessarv, it is probably bet- 
ter to carry the main feed of a house down the centre, 
and from twelve to fifteen inches below the ridge. As 
before mentioned, if radiation from this pipe is not de- 
sired, it can very easily be retained by asbestos or other 
covering. A careful observance of ah these points is 
necessary to a perfect circulation. The valves and 
checks necessary to the control of the circulating me- 
dium are well known to all steam fitters and need not 
be enumerated here. 

I am sometimes asked the question Avhich of all 
these systems I like the best, and which I would advise 
a beginner to adopt. This last question cannot be 
answered definitely, for reasons already stated, and as 
to the first, I can only give my own experience. 



Heating by Steam. 43 

For ten years and more prior to the general introduc- 
tion of steam for greenhouse heating I was conversant 
with its use, but in a more imperfect form in some 
respects than as used at the present time. In the 
growth of cut flowers for the past ten years, hot water 
in its various forms has been used by me exclusively. 
I am unable to say, however, by actual test, which of 
the two systems will produce the best results, as I have 
had no opportunity to try them in comparison and 
under equal circumstances. 

The consensus of opinion undoubtedly favors the 
use of steam on large places, and while it may be best 
to equip a new and large range of houses in this way, 
I have not as yet seen it to be to my interest to change 
a system that works satisfactorily, as that change must 
necessarily mean a large sacrifice of material in the 
process of reconstruction. 

On the other hand, if your place is small, you will 
doubtless find the old system of hot water to require 
less care and trouble in the production of good results. 



44 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

CHAPTER IX. 

OVERHEAD HEATING. 

For growing roses, I am satisfied that "overhead 
heating" is a positive injury, unless the pij^es are at 
such a distance from the plants that the radiation will 
not foster spider. The distance not being less than 
that of the main feed pipe near the ridge previously 
described. But that it is beneficial to some crops has 
been demonstrated in my own experience. In the 
growth of carnations, I consider a portion of the heat 
thus applied of positive benefit, as it helps to dr}^ the 
foliage at a season of the year when artificial means 
are necessary. For the growth of small roses in pots, 
this method is also of great value, and were I piping 
my houses anew, I should provide an extra pipe over 
every bench used for this purpose, arranging it so as 
to be under perfect control, to be used or not, as seemed 
necessary. 

A knowledge of the benefit derived from this meth- 
od came to me bykaccident. In the winter of '91, being 
crowded for room, I' removed the contents of a north 
bench which had been occupied by " Wabans" (more 
experience) and filled it with young pot plants that 
had been potted about three weeks, and which up to 
date had been given what is considered the best room 
in a house, a south bench near the glass. The bench 
to which they were removed was fully three feet from 
the glass, and partially shaded by a rank growth of 



Roses. 45 

roses on a middle bench south of it. Directly under 
the gutter was a four-inch hot water main running the 
entire length of the house, and notwithstanding it was 
in January when sun heat is scarce, the radiation from 
this main evaporated all dampness and moisture from 
the plants, rendering it possible to syringe often, and to 
produce under these seemingly unfavorable circum- 
stances, a health and vigor of growth seldom seen at 
that season of the year, even under the best possible 
conditions. 



CHAPTER X. 

ROSES. 

THEIR CULTIVATION, DISEASES, ETC. 

No other. plant is to-day so largely grown for cut 
flowers as the rose. Nor is there another upon which 
so much time and thought has been expended in its 
development, or in its perfection. The short season 
during which roses are sold at a profit renders it im- 
perative that he who would make the most of that 
period, must avail himself of every facility which will 
contribute to success. To this end essays have from 
time to time been called for from the most successful 
growers. Discussions calculated to bring to the surface 
thoughts born of experience have been called out, and 
while in this way many valuable facts and suggestions 



id, How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

have been brought to our attention, still each grower 
has had to act largely upon his own judgment, and 
draw conclusions in the main from his own experi- 
ence. 

I well rememJDcr the eager anticipation with which I 
listened to the first essay on this subject, as well as the 
unsatisfied hunger and disappointment with which I 
turned away at its close, simply because I did not find 
in it the solution of the one c^uestion above all others 
which was then troubling me. In the liglit of subse- 
quent events I can see that it was all clear to the mind 
of the essayist, and that he could not have known the 
conditions which constituted a failure with me, while 
with him, seemingly, similar conditions Avere a success. 

As this line of thought tends directly to the use of 
soils, and as my belief increases with each passing year, 
that on them, and on their adaptability to the needs of 
the different varieties of roses we grow, depends, in no 
small degree, our success, it seems to me wise to com- 
mence with what may be truly considered the foun- 
dation stones of our superstructure. 



Soil. 47 

CHAPTER XL 
SOIL. 

The impression at one time prevailed to a consider- 
able extent that a chemical analysis would reveal what 
was lacking to make a perfect soil, and that this ingredi- 
ent could be supplied artificially. Unfortunately, ex- 
periments in this line only went to prove that Dame 
Nature resented any such interference with her secret 
laboratory, so that observation and experiment seem 
to be the only means at our command with which to 
prove their adaptability for producing certain desired 
results. 

For ten years past, no one rose has been cultivated 
so extensively, as Perle des Jardins, and still in some 
localities it cannot be grown with any degree of suc- 
cess. In fact it has been discarded by some prominent 
growers for that reason. 

Where I am located, the soil is a rich loam with a 
slight mixture of sand, and has a sandy clay subsoil, 
but not of sufficient strength for the manufacture of 
either brick or pottery ware. It is a soil perfectly 
adapted to the growth of Perle, and in which a crop 
has never failed to give the best results. 

When Catherine Mermet and American Beauty ap- 
peared and were given a trial, disappointment was the 
only result. Both made a magnificent growth, but the 
Beauties rarely formed a bud, while those that matured 
on Mermet were so inferior in size and color as to be 



48 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

practically worthless. It was at this stage that I found 
myself so hungry for the essay already alluded to. 

Visits to eastern growers made about this time, re- 
vealed the fact that some of them were unable to grow 
Perle, while other varieties which failed with me, grew 
there to perfection. 

A careful examination and comparison of soils 
showed theirs to be much firmer and heavier than 
mine, with a stiff subsoil, through which there was no 
apparent mixture of sand. This convinced me that 
herein lay the secret of my failure and their success, 
but how to supply the needed soil was a knotty prob- 
lem. 

One summer day a short time previous to this, while 
visiting a brother florist, my attention was called to a 
magnificent growth of roses, as well as to the peculiar 
character of the soil in which they were planted. In- 
quiry elicited the fact, that being out of sod soil, the 
thought had occurred to him to try a gravelly paste 
which was found ten feet below the surface. He had 
discovered this in a bank he was excavating close by in 
order to make room for another house. No fertilizing 
material was added, and still the luxuriance of foliage 
was astonishing. So impressed was I with these re- 
sults that I took a sample of the soil home with me, and 
called the attention of my foreman to its peculiar char- 
acter. Not long after, he brought me one day a soil of 
similar texture found on our own premises, and upon 



Soil. 49 

land hitherto considered worthless. This vein is from 
one to two feet thick and about six feet below the sur- 
face, and consists of both coarse and fine gravel, thor- 
oughly mixed and held together by a sticky, paste-like 
substance. A trial of this proved it to be the one thing 
lacking in my soil for the successful growing of certain 
varieties. Now, with one-third of this added to our 
natural soil, as good Brides, or Mermets can be grown 
as are to be found anywhere, while Beauties, instead of 
climbing out through an aperture in the roof as of 
old, form buds on a majority of the shoots, which de- 
velop into first-class flowers. In order to prove the 
theory upon Avhich I started, a part of a bench was 
planted to Perles in which this mixture was used. The 
growth was grand. Foliage dark and glossy, rich be- 
yond anything I had ever seen, but not one perfect 
flower was cut from that bench during the entire sea- 
son, all being what are termed "bullheads." These 
were grown in a house with Mermets and at the same 
temperature. 

In addition to those varieties mentioned, Madam 
Hoste, Gontier, and Souv de Wootton, thrive well in 
this kind of soil, but for La France, Duchess of Albany 
and Niphetos this mixture is useless, in fact a positive 
injury. 

I have been thus explicit in giving my experience m 
this matter, because no one can afl()rd to overlook the 
minutest details while studying soils, and cause and 



50 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

effect connected with their use. Also, because others 
may find conditions to exist which call for a systematic 
search not only for the cause, but the remedy. 

Those conversant with the black prairie soil of Illi- 
nois will have noticed its peculiar texture when wet, 
and it would seem that it must possess these necessary 
ingredients. Certain it is, the writer has seen Ameri- 
can Beauty in perfect form with some growers who aie 
using this upland sod, and it would seem that if 
otxiers fai*; of good results with the same soil, there 
must be other conditions necessary to success that have 
not been complied Avith. These will be considered un- 
der their various heads as we proceed. 



CHAPTER XII. 

STOCK FOR PLANTING. 
An important preliminary to planting, is the selec- 
tion and propagation of the stock we are to use for 
that purpose. While a general description of the art 
of propagation and growth of plants is foreign to my 
purpose, so far as it relates to the subject matter under 
consideration, I think it of sufficient importance to 
claim our earnest thought. With good stock, planted 
at the proper time, succeeding steps are comparatively 
easy. With medium or inferior plants at the start, it 
is an uphill fight all the Avay through, and a conse- 
quent loss. 



Stock for Planting. 51 

The class of wood to be used for cuttings, is in my 
estimation, an important matter. I am aware that this 
has given rise to much controvers}^ of late, but notwith- 
standing the opinions given by some of our best grow- 
ers, I still claim that an indiscriminate use of wood in 
propagating— if we would obtain the best results— is a 
mistake. When practicable to do so, I would never 
use anything l)ut clean healthy shoots terminated by 
buds. Reject absolutely, all "trimmings" or weak 
growth, and have as little to do with blind wood as 
possible. It stands to reason, that a succession of the 
best will gradually raise the standard of excellence. 
We know this to be true in animal life. It has also 
been proved in various ways in the vegetable king- 
dom. All know the unswerving law of heredity in 
the human organism. The sooner we apply these 
p>roved principles to matters horticultural the more 
rapid will be our approach to the ideal standard. 

The propagation of roses from blind wood may show 
no appreciable evil results for one, two or three years. 
But let him who would demonstrate it thoroughly per- 
sist in the use of this wood alone for ten or fifteen years, 
and we shall then know whether the tendency is to de- 
preciate the blooming qualities of the stock or not. As 
for myself, I have no desire to experiment in that di- 
rection, preferring to use such as I know will bring sat- 
isfactory results. 

No practical riian will attempt to improve any species 



52 How TO Gkow Cut Flowers. 

either in the animal or vegetable kingdom, by repro- 
ducing them through the medium of inferior parent- 
age. But a prominent grower once said to me, " You 
are unfair in your premises ; plants are not governed 
by any such laws." Let us look into the matter. 

Some time since, while examining the plants in the 
Botanical Garden at Washington, my attention was 
called to one, Avith the request that I name it. It re- 
sembled a familiar variety, but was so far superior in 
every way that I hesitated to call it by name. It 
proved to be what it seemed, Ficus Repens, but so 
greatly changed b}^ careful selection and the propaga- 
tion each year for fifteen years, from each year's im- 
provement, as to be scarceh^ recognized at the end of 
that time. 

If this proved true in this instance and with this 
plant, why does it not apply to other plants as well ? 
1 have felt confident for years that it was one of the fac- 
tors of success, and am confirmed in this belief through 
the recently published statement of one of our most in- 
telligent carnation growers, who in an able article con- 
tends that he has proved these conditions necessary in 
the propagation of this, his specialty, if he would foster 
and preserve freedom of bloom*. 

In many instances it is necessary to the trade of the 
grower, or the wants of the locality where he may be, 
to raise a miscellaneous stock. On such a place it will 

-American Florist, Vol. 8, page 236. 



Stock for Planting. 53 

usually be found that every nook and corner is filled 
Avith market plants at the season of the year when the 
roses, upon which he must depend for his next winter's 
bloom, need both room and careful attention, preclud- 
ing the possibility of his giving them the care and 
watchfulness necessary to have them in perfect form 
Avhen needed for planting. Many growers so situated 
have given up trying to raise their own flowering stock, 
being satisfied that it is to their interest to contract 
with some specialist for their supply, giving him time 
to grow their plants so that they may be delivered at a 
specified time, and in size and condition superior to 
what his limited facilities would permit. 

We hear of " two-eyed cuttings," and see plants ad- 
vertised as having been grown from such. The suppo- 
sition is that there is an eye at either end of the cutting, 
one of which is placed in the sand and around which 
the roots form, while the other constitutes the nucleus 
of the future plant. Unless it is desired to have roses 
send up canes from the base, or from underneath the 
surface soil, it is a mistake to insert an eye in the 
sand, or to leave a heel on the cutting, as that is full of 
eyes. Such canes almost invariably throw a cluster of 
buds, and are deficient in length of stem and foliage. 
Every encouragement should be given to have the 
plants break from their heads, throwing long stems, ter- 
minated by single buds, and thus be enabled to give 
both the length of stem and luxuriance of foliage so 



54 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

much in demand. If it is desired to produce plants 
quickly several eyes may be left above the sand; 
otherwise I know of no advantage gained by the use 
of more than one eye to a cutting, provided, always, 
that the stem of the cutting is of sufficient length to 
maintain itself in the sand until rooted. 

American Beauty is an exception to the rule of one- 
eyed cuttings, because it is so closely jointed it is often 
necessary to use several eyes in order to obtain a cut- 
ting of sufficient length. It is also desirable to encour- 
age this variety to break from the base, and to this end 
it is well to place one or more eyes in the sand. 

It is customary with some to grow their plants to a 
good size in four-inch pots, and then rest them for two 
weeks before planting. This is done by plunging the 
pots outside, or setting them on a bed of coal ashes, 
withholding water in a measure, until the wood is well 
ripened, and I have seen them sometimes so thoroughly 
ripened that the foliage assumed a yellowish tint as 
though autumn had really overtaken them. I have 
never been able to see any beneficial results from this 
method, and prefer planting permanently without any 
rest after reaching this stage of growth. 

From the time the cutting is placed in the sand un- 
til it is thrown out as an exhausted pJant the following 
season, I do not believe it should receive a check of 
any kind, but on the contrary, that every possible 
means should be employed to keep it in a healthful^ 



Stock for Planting. 55 

vigorous growth, and the later the planting is done, the 
more advanced and vigorous should the pot plants be. 
The question naturally arises, will not this impair 
the constitutional vigor of our stock ? I am aware that 
at least two extensive growers of the rose so contend. 
They advocate an occasional outside planting of a year's 
stock, giving it a summer's growth in the open ground, 
a natural rest in winter, then starting it into growth 
early in the spring and from the wood thus grown, make 
the stock for flowering. 

If it is found to be necessary, this is a rational way 
of restoring impaired vitality, but being an expensive 
method, should be avoided if others more inexpensive 
can be found which will accomplish the same result, 
and I think an occasional renewal of stock through the 
use of semi-dormant cuttings made in the fall, and 
rooted cool, a better, as well as a less expensive method. 
When cuttings are first potted, they should be 
screened from bright sunshine until root action begins. 
Ever after this stage until planted, give the young plants 
the benefit of the best bench in the house under full 
sunlight. Carefully observe all the conditions of syr- 
inging, airing and shifting, necessary to a perfectly 
healthy stocky growth, and I do not think you need 
fear any deterioration in the constitutional vigor of 
your roses. 

When roses are planted carelessly, left to the care of 
incompetent help, the temperature allowed to run up 



56 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

to 100° more or less before ventilation is given, and 
drop to 40 or 50 at night while the fireman enjoys a 
quiet nap, you can certainly look for impaired vitality. 

If you have a healthy child, will you keep him in a 
close, unventilated room at a high temperature for fear 
a breath of air will subject him to a cold and its at- 
tendant evils, or will you follow your physician's ad- 
vice — clothe him warmly and send him out into the air 
and sunshine, to romp on the lawn or roll in the sand 
as suits his inclination, taking care at the same time 
to supply him liberally with the Scotchman's diet? 
Then, so far as these principles accord with common 
sense and experience, apply them to plant life and you 
will find healthy, sturdy, vigorous growth your reward. 

It is mistaken economy when obliged to defer plant- 
ing later than July, to use anything but the best and 
strongest of stock ; in fact, there is no economy in using 
or buying plants for this purpose because they are 
cheap. Whether you raise your own, or whether you 
buy of others, never use or buy any but the best, and 
for such, if obliged to purchase, be willing to pay the 
grower a fair compensation. 



Renewal of Rose Plants. 57 

CHAPTER XIIL 

THE RENEWAL OF ROSE PLANTS. 
It will have been noticed that I have assumed that 
all planting was to be renewed each year. I sincerely 
wish I could advise flowering them the second season, 
especially such as are not overgrown and exhausted ; 
it would save so much time and expense. 

Sometimes, owing to a delay in planting, a bench 
does not arrive at its best until March or April, and 
as we look it over, note the size and number of the 
buds, as well as the fine thrifty foliage, we persuade 
ourselves easily, that this bench will certainly do well 
another season. So I have thought several times, al- 
though previous experience had taught me better. 

Two years since I allowed inclination to get the bet- 
ter of judgment, and a house of Mermets answering 
the description just given, were flowered the second 
season, or rather, an attempt was made in that direc- 
tion. They were carefully summered, not being al- 
lowed to become dry enough to injure the fibrous roots 
as we thought. In the fall they were pruned, tied, as 
much of the soil as possible removed without injuring 
the roots, fresh soil and composted mulching applied, 
and they started slowly into growth. 

The result was less than half a crop, and in March 
they were thrown out, making a net loss for that bit of 
experience of $500. This was on an ordinary raised 
bench. 



58 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

Early last summer I prepared a solid bed, drained it 
well and transferred to it some one year old Beauties 
from a raised bench. They were fine plants, had not 
been overworked, and in moving them we first cut all 
around the plant, then taking them one by one, with 
a shovel removed them with as little disturbance to 
the roots as possible. Root growth was encouraged in 
these at once, and although they gave excellent prom- 
ise and made a fair growth, less than one-half as many 
buds have been cut from it, as from the bench from 
which they were taken, which Avas replanted in June 
with young plants propagated early in March. 

I know men who have in a few instances had fair 
success in growing roses in shallow benches the second 
year. But they are experts, and I notice do not try it 
if they have plenty of nice young plants to use in- 
stead. 

As a rule, it is not the expert grower who tries this 
method. It is the novice to whom it seems not only a 
sacrifice of money, but of product as well, to throw 
the stock out and start anew. 

I have two establishments in mind, both large, and 
they are illustrations of these two methods. One dis- 
carded all his stock, planted early Avith fresh young 
plants, and now at the close of the year, the growth is 
a marvel of beauty, and the product unexcelled. Four- 
fifths of the plants on the other place were retained, 
and the spectacle is as much of a marvel, in its way, 



Roses in Summer. 59 

as the first. Could photographic views of these living 
illustrations of our subject matter be placed before you 
side by side in these pages, I think it would forever 
cure any one of following in the footsteps of the " econo- 
mical" man. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

ROSES IN SLMMEK. 

Those having a summer trade in cut flowers can raise 
a better class of flowers, and at the same time bridge 
over the gap made each season in the supply through 
the renewal of the benches, by having a few houses de- 
voted to this special purpose. 

Oftentimes during the summer there is a scarcity of 
first class cut blooms. For this various reasons exist. 
In many instances the plants have been allowed to be- 
come exhausted through lack of nourishment at the 
proper time. Others may have had their vitality im- 
paired through inattention and consequent inroads of 
insects which sap their life. Plants, too, that have been 
handled well, and made to produce to their utmost for 
six months, are not in a condition to do as successful 
work during the warm months. They have been con- 
stantly pushing up towards the light, and now as the 
weather becomes warmer, the rank growth is too near 



60 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

the glass to produce buds of fine form and size. Added 
to tliese reasons is the fact that buds from newly 
planted stock are not, until the approach of cool 
weather, as firm nor as large as the market requires. 

This want can be supplied by planting in solid beds 
and allowing them to come in and go out with the sea- 
son. They should be housed to protect them from 
winds and storms, as well as the various insects which 
mar both flower and foliage on plants in the open 
ground. These houses should be so arranged as to keep 
out severe frosts, heat being supplied in sufficient quan- 
tity to keep them at from thirty to thirty-five during 
the winter months. With the turn of the season — usu- 
ally in February — they can be pruned back, tied down 
if need be, mulched and brought gradually on, so that 
by the time the winter plants commence to fail, you 
will have a succession of sturdy bloom. 

As fall approaches, leave the houses open to the 
weather until frost, letting nature ripen them in her 
own way and prepare them for their Avinter's rest. 

The varieties to be selected for this work are such as 
observation teaches us need a warm summer tempera- 
ture to bring them to perfection. There are many va- 
rieties, grand for summer flowering, that are utterly 
worthless in winter, and the reverse is equally true. It 
is useless to exjject fine blooms in summer from plants 
which require a low temperature to bring them to 
perfection in winter. For instance, Mermet, Bride, 



Roses in Summer. 61 

or any other rose requiring the same temperature as 
these, is valueless in a high temperature. On the con- 
trary, there are many varieties that need just such a 
temperature to bring out their greatest beauty. For a 
yellow, Etoile de Lyon is a fine summer rose, and still 
I doubt Avhether it will suit the buyer in all respects 
as well as Perle. In pink, both La France and Duchess 
of Albany are grand, and if we desire the more delicate 
shades, Mad. Pierre Guillott and Grace Darling will 
supply the want. For white, Marie Guillott is the best, 
unless it be Niphetos, but the latter, if on its own roots, is 
not strong enough for this purpose. If you will plant a 
house to a few Chromotella, say one every twenty feet, 
train them to cover an entire bench, budding the 
branches with Niphetos from time to time as they fill 
the space, you will in a few years have a wonderfully 
productive house of the very best of white roses. 

Red can be supplied by the use of Meteor, which rev- 
els in a high temperature. There are still others, and 
they are favorites with all rose lovers, but this list gives 
a good range of color and others can be added according 
to the taste of the grower. 

A system like this enables one to commence planting 
for winter bloom in season to have his plants at their 
best during the time when flowers are wanted most, and 
give the greatest returns. 



62 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

CHAPTER XV. 

DEPTH OF SOIL FOR PLANTING. 
There is but little diversity of opinion to-day, among 
men of experience, as to the advisability of rising shal- 
low benches, instead of solid beds for winter flowering. 
In the early days of forcing, solid beds were in general 
use, and it was not until the necessity arose of devising 
some means for the extermination of the rose bug, or 
"little joker," as it is sometimes called, that the discov- 
ery was made that roses planted on shallow benches were 
more easih^ controlled, and could be made much more 
profitable even when renewed every season, than the un- 
certain, slow moving bushes whose roots take such deep 
hold of the soil as to make them in a measure beyond 
control, and hence uncertain for early forcing. We 
must remember that we are in a measure, reversing 
one of Nature's laws, and coaxing plants to bloom 
at a season of the year when it is natural for them 
to rest. This can only be done successfully when 
we are able to control root action, and this is accom- 
plished by means of the shallow bench. As to the depth 
of soil to be used, authorities vary. Some say two and 
one-half inches, some three, others six and more. The 
objections to benches as fleet as those first mentioned 
are two. First, the roses must be planted while small in 
order to be able to cover the ball. This necessitates 
planting earlier than it is often advisable to remove 
the bearing crop, if sufficient time is to be given the 



Depth of Soil for Planting. 03 

new plants in which to make the growth they should 
before their season of flowering commences. 

The other objection lies in the fact that during the 
heated term, when air must be given day and night, 
and in quantity, evaporation is so rapid as to endanger 
root action unless the utmost vigilance is exercised. 
To be sure, constant watchfulness is the key to success, 
but it is not advisable for one to double his responsi- 
bility in this respect, and as I believe, unnecessarily. 

It is my custom, as a rule, to commence planting in 
May, selecting for this early work such benches as are 
paying the least. The plants used during this month 
and next are usually from three-inch pots, but all 
planting after June is, as a rule, from four-inch pots. 
This necessitates a depth of about five inches of soil 
in order to cover the ball well, and I am satisfied this 
depth is better than either more or less, if for a year's 
work. 



CHAPTER XVI. 
PLANTING. 

To secure perfect drainage and thus keep the soil 
sweet, the benches should be constructed of boards not 
more than six inches wide, with a crack of half an inch 
between them. 

When sod can be had in abundance it is well to cover 
the cracks in the bottom of the bench with it, putting 



64 How TO Geow Cut Flowers. 

the grass side down. This should be of uniform thick- 
ness, and as thin as it will hold together and permit of 
handling. The spade is too slow for this work, and 
every place of any size should possess a sod cutter where 
much is to be used. In case sod cannot be obtained, 
cover with clean straw, or with that which can be 
shaken out from the stable waste. Bring in your pre- 
pared soil and fill the bench. Level and firm the soil 
well, either by treading it with the feet or by tamping 
it with a brick, being careful to observe that there are 
no loose spots in the corners or around the edges. 
Many growers plant so those in the second row will be 
half way between those of the first, and so continue 
with each row, claiming for this method the advan- 
tage of each plant occupying an equal amount of space. 
See Fig. 21 

o o o o o 

o o o o o 
o o o o o 

Fig. 21. 

This is correct, but beds are more easily cared for 
when the rows run at right angles vrith each other, the 
first plan necessitating a walk through a centre bench. 

When planting at right angles, in a bench eight feet 
wide plant seven rows. This will give twelve inches 



Planting. 65 

between the plants one way, and allow the two outside 
rows to be six inches from the edge of the bench. 
Fifteen inches, at least, should be the distance between 
the short rows across the bench. Some plant them as 
far as eighteen inches apart. 

Planting should be done with accuracy, in order that 
each plant may have its exact amount of space. This 
will be rendered easy of accomplishment if the ends of 
the bench are spaced off, nails driven and a line stretched 
the whole length of the bench, the short rows across the 
bench having been previously marked out. Start with 
your middle row, and with a trowel cut out enough to 
receive the ball of the plant, letting its top be a little 
below the surface of the soil. Firm the soil well 
around the plant, leaving a slight depression where 
planted, for the better retention of water. Should your 
plants be uneven in size, assort them so that the 
strongest will be at the back or north row of the mid- 
dle bench and the shortest in front, grading the bed 
with the slope of the roof. Care should be taken not 
to plant a dry ball. If such are found, dip in Avater 
until thoroughly soaked before planting. 

If the side benches are of equal width, or three feet 
each, three rows can be planted on each of them, mak- 
ing a house one hundred feet by eighteen, to hold about 
1,000 plants. 

If the soil was in what is termed "a good growing 
condition " when placed in the bench, let your water- 



66 How TO Geow Cut Flowers. 

ing be light for a few clays, filling the depression 
spoken of around the plant the first time water is ap- 
plied, but confining its use to frequent light syringing 
until root action commences. In this way the roots 
will seek the surrounding soil much more rapidly than 
if the entire bench is water soaked. 

In about ten days the surface will be covered with a 
multitude of small weeds. To exterminate these, on a 
bright sunny day, take a small fine rake and go over 
the whole carefully. If this is practiced every week 
for three or four weeks, there will be no necessity for 
hand picking, and by that time, the plants if strong 
at first, will have put out a vigorous growth and be 
ready for their first mulching, but to facilitate this 
they should be properly staked and tied. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

STAKING AND TYING. 

I am not sure whether the old practice of cutting 
bean poles for the purpose of staking, in order to save 
buying canes, has been entirely abandoned or not. If 
not it should be, as it is a case of mistaken econo- 
my, for after filling the soil with timber and shading 
the plants with miniature forest trees, the poor roses 
have a hard struggle for their share of room and sun- 
shine. 



Staking and Tying. 67 

Cane stakes from the Ohio river bottoms have been 
extensively used for this purpose, but are objectionable 
for several reasons. First, the lack of depth of soil 
will not permit any stake to enter a sufficient distance 
to stand erect without support. Second, such portion 
of it as enters the soil must be removed the following 
season, and one or two repetitions of this so shortens 
the stake as to render a new^ supply necessary. Third, 
being hollow they make an excellent harbor for insects, 
some of which if they obtain a foothold, will nest and 
live there, and be on hand at an early date to sample 
the new crop. 

A better, though at first more expensive way, is to 
use galvanized wire. This requires two sizes, number 
six for the standards, and number sixteen for staying 
their tops and holding them in place. At either end 
of the bench place frames for the reception of the 
small wire. These can be constructed of gas pipe, or 
of wood as preferred. The horizontal part to which 
the wires are fastened, should be about three and 
one-half feet above the soil, or the top of it a few^ 
inches below the purlin. Brace these frames well either 
in front, or by attaching strong wdres, one end of which 
has been fastened to the end of the house, so that the 
tension will not spring the frame. Take an end of the 
wire, double and make a twist about ten inches long, 
pass this around the pipe or through a staple as the 
case may be, and fasten securely by neatly winding 



68 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

one-half of the twisted piece around the other. This 
will give it greater strength and render it more capable 
of withstanding the tension. With a wire stretcher 
draw the wire taut, double and fasten around the 
frame at the other end of the bench in the same way 
as the first. Continue in this manner until all your 
upper wires are in position, being careful to draw all 
of them equally taut. 

The number required will depend upon the number 
of plants. If there are seven across the bench, it will 
require sixteen stakes, or two to a plant, and the same 
number of small wires for their support. 

Before stretching the first v/ire, mark each end of the 
frame so that the spaces between the wires will be 
equal, and after they are all in position they can be 
staid in the following manner: Arrange the supports 
to both the ridge and purlin so that at every twenty 
or twenty-five feet they shall be opposite each other, 
and at right angles to the bench. To these fasten at 
each end a strip two inches b}^ half an inch, into one 
edge of which a saw calf has been made a quarter of 
an inch deep, and of a size and corresponding distance 
that will just receive the wires, and you will have a 
firm wire frame to work to. This should all be in 
place before the bed is planted. 

If it is your custom to bring in and carry out the 
soil in hand flats, the wire frame over the middle bench 
can be made permanent, but if wheelbarrows or hand 



Staking and Tying. 



69 



carts are used, necessitating travel back and forth on 
the bench, the frames can with little trouble be so con- 
structed as to admit of the wire frame being raised on 
the north side nearly to the glass and thus be out of 
the way. To do this, if it is desired to construct the 




Fig. 22. 



70 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

frame of wood, use four bv four oak or some other firm 
woodj join one end of the horizontal bar to the shorter 
upright by means of a bolt passing through both, and 
thus form a flexible joint. 

Let the longer upright extend as far as it will be de- 
sirable to raise the wire frame. The bar to which the 
wires are attached should extend beyond this upright 
sufficiently — about eight inches — to prevent its slip- 
ping inside when raised to its top. Fasten this bar at 
the height desired by a bolt passing through both it and 
the standard, so that when the frame is raised the 
bolt can be drawn, and the same bolt again used in 
another set of holes to keep it in place. It is needless 
to add that the frames at both ends should be alike 
and raised simultaneously. 

There are two objections to a wood frame. While it 
is the cheapest, it looks clumsy, and projecting over the 
walk, as a movable one must, is apt to be in the way 
when one is thoughtlessly passing. 

In order to construct a movable frame of gas pipe, the 
bar to which the wires are attached should be two-inch, 
but the uprights may be of one and a half inch if de- 
sired. For making the flexible joint, use an ell, or 
a close nip and a tee. See Fig 22. 

Let the tee (a) be rimmed out so that the bar (b) will 
pass through it, and drill a hole for a pin (c), also drill 
two sets of holes through the bar for the reception of 
the pin (c), these should be at right angles to each 



Staking and Tying. 71 

other, or in other words, by them divide the circumfer- 
ence of the bar into four spaces of equal distance. 

Instead of letting the bar project beyond the long 
standard (d), cap it with a coupling (e) that wdll project 
but an inch, and when it is desired to raise the frame, 
a short piece of pipe (f ) can be screwed into the coup- 
ling, and provision can be made for fastening both this 
and the main bar, b}^ drilling holes in both them and 
the post, that will admit a bolt (g) of suitable size to 
hold them in place. These frames should be held firmly 
in place by strong wires fastened securely to the ends 
of the house. 

Before staking in the fall, if the wires have become 
slack, place a pair of tongs on each end of the bar (b), 
remove pins (c) and (g) and turn the bar until the 
wires are taut, then fasten as before. 

The upright wires should be cut at the factory into 
suitable lengths. For a middle bench of ordinary 
height the first four rows on the south side should be 
four feet in length, the balance six inches longer. 
Those four feet long can also be used on the north 
bench. 

On a south bench overhead wires will not be neces- 
sary, and they had better be put in permanently on 
the north bench. 

In staking, wires are inserted about three inches in 
the soil and the same distance each w^ay from the i:)lant, 
and then tied to the top wdres, care being taken to keep 



72 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

them in exact line and eyen at the top. This system 
of tying permits of spreading the plant so that all the 
space may be occupied, and still not have the foliage 
bunched, a great assistance in syringing thoroughly. 
It also leaves space between the rows for the free admis- 
sion of both air and sunlight, not only to the plants, 
but to the soil as well. 

The cost of fitting up a house one hundred by eight- 
een feet in this way, exclusive of labor, is about twenty- 
five dollars, but it has to be done but once, and posses- 
ses so many advantages that no one after trying it will 
regret the outlay. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 
MULCHING. 

The roses being staked and tied, are now ready for 
mulching. This should be composed of two-thirds well 
rotted cow manure, and one-third good soil. If the 
manure is two years old, all the better. Mix well and 
apply about an inch deep all over the surface. From 
this time on the soil should never be disturbed, as the 
plants will throw up a multitude of new roots to absorb 
this covering, and any weeds that appear after this 
should be carefully removed by hand. 

If all goes well, the earlier beds may be mulched again 
in seven or eight weeks, using, if the first is well spent, 



Mulching. 73 

a little more, and it can also be made a little stronger 
now by the addition of a gallon of bone meal to a cubic 
yard of mulch. If the weather is bright and clear and 
the plants in perfect health, an inch and a half may be 
applied, but if from any cause, known or unknown, the 
plants seem sickly, they are in no better condition to 
absorb strong food than are either men or animals un- 
der the same conditions, and it should be withheld 
until such time as root action is better. 

Asa rule, it is not well to mulch heavily in Novem- 
ber or December, but on bright days during these 
months, if you are satisfied more nourishment is needed 
and that the plants are in a condition to receive it, a very 
small amount of fresher manure may be scattered very 
lightly here and there between the rows, allowing the 
same to be washed in from time to time as the plants 
are either watered or syringed. This is quicker than to 
apply food in liquid form, where but little can be used. 
I am no advocate of the use of green manure in quan- 
tity for this purpose at this season of the year. Besides 
being offensive, it is dangerous in the hands of any but 
experts, but during the months mentioned, when a 
heavy mulch cannot be safely applied, used very spar- 
ingly, it often helps sustain the plants until the dull 
cold months are passed. 

Another and heavier coat than ^he second one may 
usually be added by February, and this will be the last 
to be applied to such benches as are to be used for the 



74 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

first planting for another season's work. Or if the 
plants are healthy and the soil full of working roots, 
liquid manure may be used quite freely. 

In addition to these applications, it will under some 
conditions be found advisable to use nitrate of soda in 
small quantity after the buds are formed and just be- 
fore maturing. 

Used thus, if the mulching has been on for some time, 
it will materially aid the bud to develop size, but its 
use at other times is inadvisable, because it tends to 
make a rapid soft growth, which in some varieties les- 
sens productiveness. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

WATERING. 

Watering and ventilating are no doubt the rocks on 
which many a man's hopes have been wrecked. Every- 
thing went beautifully as long as the sun shone brightly, 
but when November came with its grey, leaden sky, 
followed by December with its piercing cold, its storms, 
covering what of the glass frosts had not claimed, some- 
how, the plants seemed to grow less day by day, instead 
of pushing on vigorously as they had during the sum- 
mer and early fall. One day's mistake at this critical 
period, and your summer's work goes for naught. 

No set rules can be either laid down or followed in 



Watering. 75 

regard to watering. It is largely a matter of intuition. 
A nameless something, that comes to the individual 
only through close observation and careful study, and 
then only as he develops daily an aptitude for grasping 
the situation. I have known those who performed this 
important work by rule. Every morning at just such 
an hour, cold or hot, wet or dry, syringing was done, 
and to save early firing as fall weather came on, all 
ventilation was closed early in the afternoon. It is un- 
necessary to add that these methods were not productive 
of pecuniary success. Even now, as I write (December 
loth), a letter of inquiry reaches me from a beginner 
wishing to know why the outer petals cling and de- 
cay on the buds in his house. A question easy of solu- 
tion Avithout seeing the conditions. Either too much 
water or too little air, or both combined and admin- 
istered injudiciously. 

One finds pen and ink to be poor and imperfect me- 
diums through which to convey to another the elements 
of success in this most difficult part of the work attend- 
ing artificial growth. I wish I could describe it, but it 
is beyond the power of pen or tongue. It is like the 
blind girl yearning for knowledge. Her delicate touch 
brings her in contact with form, and that form imparts 
to her mind language in embryo, until by the most per- 
sistent effort, and constant watchfulness, words, sen- 
tences, language, is at her command. So in this. To the 
delicate touch and watchful eye it comes as by intui- 



76 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

tioD, and I cannot tell you better how a man comes into 
possession of this art, for art it is if ever there Avas one. 
Only general principles can be outlined. The applica- 
tion of them to existing circumstances must be largely 
at the discretion of the operator. 

During the summer and fall, the soil should be kept 
in a good growing condition, not dry, neither should it 
be saturated, for it must be remembered the soil is far 
from being filled with working roots, and in their ab- 
sence moisture cannot be as readily taken up as in the 
spring when these conditions are different. Examine 
carefully ever}^ bed each day and determine what it 
needs. If the soil has a "'growing touch," if you can 
close the hand upon it and upon opening have the soil 
retain its form as though it had been cast in a mould, 
syringe only, letting the quantity of water used be gov- 
erned by the character of the day. Never let your soil 
get in such a condition that you can squeeze water from 
it, not even a drop. This applies, of course, only to a 
soil that has become sodden from too much water, not 
to one recently Avatered. Occasionally let the benches 
get a little dry, then on a bright day Avater well, re- 
membering always, the more dense the foliage, and 
the more the plants are bearing, the greater Avill be 
the amount of moisture they Avill need and absorb. 
On every bright day the foliage should be well syringed. 
This should be done early in the day in order that it 
may have sufficient time to dry should it become cloudy 



Ventilation. 77 

later on. If possible to avoid it, night should never 
find any dampness on the foliage, especially after the 
days begin to shorten and the nights to grow cool. 

As winter approaches, more care still must be exercis- 
ed, and if the day is dull, or moist, use no water unless 
careful examination reveals dry spots in the soil, and 
then sparingly. In a clear, bright winter day, examine 
all the benches thoroughly, giving to each in proportion 
to its need. Also use every opportunity when the sun 
is bright and the glass clear of snow and frost, to syr- 
inge well. If you succeed in tiding over the winter 
months and keep your roses in a healthy growing con- 
dition, as the sun grows stronger and the soil becomes 
full of roots, the quantity must be increased, and after 
the middle of February there is but little danger of giv- 
ing them too much on bright, airy days. 



CHAPTER XX. 

VENTILATION. 

It is a difficult matter to say which of the two, this 
or the former, constitutes the key stone upon which 
success depends. Certain it is they go hand in hand 
and require equally intelligent action. 

From the day the houses are planted until the roses 
are thrown out as worthless, all the air possible should 
be given. 



78 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

Not that every day in this respect is like the one that 
preceded it, in which the same treatment is required, 
but the days are rare that ventilation in some form can- 
not be given. 

It must be borne in mind constantly that the health 
and vigor of your plants, and that their ability to af- 
ford you remuneration during the winter, is largely de- 
pendent upon the growth they make previous to No- 
vember. If the heat is extreme, throw wide open every 
ventilator, and these are the days when you reap the 
benefit of having a house stand by itself, with nothing 
joined to it to radiate heat or impede a free circulation 
of air through the doors in the walls. These ventila- 
tors should be shut at night unless the temperature is 
extremely high, and gives indications of continuing 
so through the night, but as long as possible leave roof 
ventilation open night and day. 

Also in seasons of extreme heat, while syringing 
freely, be careful not to saturate the soil, as it tends to 
soften and enfeeble the growth. 

As fall approaches, gradually lessen the amount of 
air at night, tempering it to the weather, but still leav- 
ing on all that the plants will bear without engender- 
ing mildew. If the wind is raw, shut the ventilators 
on the side from which it comes, keeping the other side 
open, but not allowing strong drafts of cool air to blow 
directly on the plants. 

Some times as early as August a cold rain will set in 



Ventilation. 79 

for a day or two, and although the thermometer may 
not fall below ^ixty, the change from summer heat is 
very great. Whenever this occurs, no matter if it is 
in July, start a little circulation in your pipes, leaving 
the ventilators open sufficiently to prevent the temper- 
ature from rising unduly, and this will allow gathered 
moisture to escape. 

The great aim to be sought after is an even tempera- 
ture, and as often as the changes of the season rise 
above or fall below our standard, just so often must we 
employ every means in our power to counteract their 
extremes. 

The habit of closing the ventilators to save fuel, or 
the trouble of starting the fires, as well as the idea 
that no fire is needed until frosts come, has not yet 
wholly passed out of practice or belief, and it may truly 
be said to be the lazy man's economy. Not a season 
passes but what, somewhere, I enter just such houses 
as these. Could their owners but know that for every 
dollar saved in this way they were drawing on the future 
for ten, and perhaps hundreds of dollars, they would, 
if they desired to consult their own best interest, reverse 
the practice. 

Should the day be bright and warm and the night 
following so cool as to cause the thermometer to fall to 
50 or 55, you will find in the morning that the foliage 
is covered with dew. To the novice this may seem a 
healthy condition, but a few nights of this, and in a 



80 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

short time the leaves will begin to fall, the young red 
shoots will take on a "waterlogged," purplish hue, and 
the plants will have received a check from which they 
will not recover until spring, and it will require the ut- 
most skill to bring them through alive. 

I feel that too much stress cannot be laid upon this 
point, for the evil described is but one of several that 
arise from the same cause. Never leave your houses 
without starting a fire, if you are satisfied the night 
temperature will fall much below 60, leaving on at the 
same time a little air, the amount of which must be gov- 
erned by the outside temperature. 

As soon as the weather becomes cool enough to close 
the ventilators nights, every bright morning, as soon 
as the sun strikes the glass, open one side a little. In a 
half hour open another notch. Watch the day, the 
winds and the outside temperature, as well as that in 
the house, and continue to give more as the day 
advances. If the sun enters a cloud for any length of 
time and the air outside is keen, lower your ventila- 
tors in proportion until the sun appears again. Should 
the wind change and blow into the house, close that 
side and open the other at once. Do not think when 
you have once opened the ventilators your work for the 
day is over. During the winter months, scarcel}^ an 
hour will pass in which some change is not required, 
and ever remember that eternal vigilance is the price at 
which a paying crop is grown. 



Temi>eratike of Watki;. 81 

CHAPTER XXI. 

THMrEKATlRE OF WATER. 

Bob Biirdette yays the man who wrote so charmingly 
of the invigorating and healtliful results attending the 
practice of rising early, taking a bath in ice water, a 
brisk walk and then breakfasting, drew entirely upon 
liis imagination for this unpopular advice; that, in 
fact, the author theorized for the benefit of otbcrs whil(> 
snugly ensconced in a warm bed, which he <lid not. 
as a rule, leave until eleven o'clock in the morning. 

While " cleanliness is next to godliness," let us have 
it tempered a little — that is, the water — not only for 
ourselves, but vegetation as well. A greater crank even 
than Thompson would he be considered who advo- 
cated deluging tender plants with ice water. To be 
sure they cannot resist and must meekly take wliatever 
their master i)rovides. but the evil results will l)e seen 
later on. 

The importance of this is such that tliere should be 
facilities of some kind provided on every place to bring 
water to a proper degree of warmth before applying it 
to either root or foliage. I have seen roses syringed on 
a bright day with extremely cold water with tins result. 
An examination soon revealed multitudes of small 
mildew blisters all over the surface of the leaves, from 
tlie size of a pin head down, until they could not l)e 
seen by the naked eye. \'egetal)le pneumonia, that 



82 How TO Gkow Cut FLOWEKr^. 

is what it was. Leaves are the lungs of the plant. 
When they beeome diseased you have a case of vege- 
table consumption on your hands. 

Quite a majority of the larger growers are located 
outside of cities, and are thus obliged to provide water 
works of their own. To obtain the required jn'cssure 
it is customarv to raise the water to tanks varying in 
height from fifteen to twenty-five feet. This renders 
it comparatively easy to so arrange as to be able to keej) 
the water at an even and desired temperature. If con- 
venient to do so, a separate flow and return can be 
provided between the boiler and tank, or if steam heat- 
ing is used, a coil of pipe in the tank can be used. The 
use of a coil will be found the more agreeable way, 
turning the end of the coil so the steam, after passing 
through it, shall be discharged near the bottom of tlie 
tank, as the noise from turning a jet of steam directly 
into the water is objectionable. If the coil is of suffi- 
cient length, the heat Avill all be absorbed before the 
jet reaches the discharge, and all noise thus be avoided. 

If your boiler is not able to do this extra work, l)y 
all means provide a special one for the purpose. For 
this, a hot water heater of some kind will require the 
least attention, being very easily regulated. The ai- 
rangement is the most simple possible. After setting 
the boiler, presumably in the enclosure under the tank, 
attach the flow and return to the bottom of whatever 
contains your water supply, and it is ready for use. For 



Temperature of Water. 83 

this purpose a boiler costing $2-3 will be found to l)e of 
sufficient capacity to temper 800 barrels of water. 

To temper a supply from city hydrants so that it 
shall be even, is not so easy a matter, unless it be done 
in a similar way. This would require a receptacle for 
the water sufficiently strong to resist the pressure, but 
will, I think, be more satisfactory than other methods 
if a considerable <j[uantity of water is needed. When- 
ever tlie construction is such as has just been described, 
after the water has been brought to the required tem- 
perature, shut olf the pressure while using, depending 
upon the elevation to give what is needed. In this 
way all used will be of even temperature, while if you 
draw out and allow the high hydrant pressure to fill 
at the same time, there will necessarily be more or less 
variation in the degree of warmth in the water used. 
This is the objection, as it seems to me, to the plan 
advocated by some, of having a hollow saddle back 
boiler set over a row of pipes under a bench, filling it 
with water, attaching the hydrant to one end and 
drawing from the other, dependence being made upon 
the i)ipes under it for tempering. Some dei)end upon 
having a sufficient number of water pipes in the house 
to temper the water used for syringing, but if much is 
needed the supply soon becomes exhausted. 

I know of no better way foi' winter Avork than that 
first described, whether the water '^upply be public or 
private. 



84 How TO Gkow Cut Flowers. 

While there is not as niiieh danger in the use of 
warm as of cold water, if applied to the roots it should 
be some cooler than the atmosphere of the house. If 
warmer than 60 or .")o, it will have a tendency to en- 
courage a more rapid growth than is advisable, but 
Avater of the same temperature as the house can be 
safely used in s3a'ingin(!-, when the application is light. 



ni AFTER XXTF 

SHAD1X(t. 

The necessity for this varies with the locality and the 
season. In earlv spring, as the days l)ecome warmer, 
if the plants have grown well, they will be throwing 
their buds near the glass. Bright sunshine on the clear 
glass at this time will not onlv bleach the color but 
hasten the maturity of the buds, thus lessening their 
size. It is best under these circumstances to apply 
a very light shade, just enough to break the glare 
of the sun. For this a thin wash may be made by 
putting a small amount of white lead in the quantity 
of refined coal oil necessary to go over the surface re- 
quired. This can be applied evenly as well as (juite 
rapidly, by means of a whitewash brush, having a 
handle of sufficient length to reach the highest i)oint 
to be covered. I am not in sympathy Avith those who 
advocate the application of shading with a syringe, 



Shading. 86 

' because it saves time/' What is worth doing at all is 
worth doing well, and while in northern latitudes it 
may be best to apply it in the form of a fine spray, thus 
leaving both shade and clear glass, in the latitude in 
which this is written it is not the best method. I would 
never, if possible to avoid it, use whitewash. The lime 
will^not only destroy the paint, but eat the oil from the 
putty, loosening and causing it to separate from the 
wood long before the elements will naturallv require 
the roof to be newly glazed. If it is desired to make a 
preparation that will wash off easily or disappear with 
the first rain, water colored with a little clay Avill ac- 
complish the purpose, leaving no injurious effects 
behind. 

Another piece of false economy is to shade heavily 
in order not to be obliged to devote time to it again 
during the season. Shade lightly, and with reference 
to the time and crop to be protected, and if it is needed 
again during the season, apply as, when and where it 
seems necessary. This cry about making work is non- 
sense. Muscle is cheap; it is brain that comes high. 
I would not advocate unnecessary work, and this is 
not ; it is directly in the line of what we are striving 
for, the best results first, labor saving and devices for 
its accomplishment, second. 

I have visited establishments where the shading has 
been so thorough that the plants resented it and strove 
to overcome the lack of liglit by climbing rapidly up- 



86 How TO Grow Cut Floweks. 

ward in liopes of being able to walk out into God's 
sunshine. The result was what must always be ex- 
pected under like conditions, long spaced joints, spind- 
ling growth, im])aired vigor. Splendid subjects for 
black spot, falling leaves, disappointed hopes. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 
THE CUTTING OF BUDS. 

The stage at Avhich this should be done depends 
upon the use to which it is desired to put the flowers. 
If you are near your market and they are for immedi- 
ate sale over the counter, they will need to be more 
advanced than if they are for shipment to some distant 
l)oint. It has been proved that roses will both show 
and keep better, not to be offered for sale the same day 
they are cut, but be kept in water from twelve to 
twenty-four hours, according to the varieties. 

The work of sorting, packing and getting the i)roduct 
to market, consumes the morning hours, and usually 
needs to l>e performed, in cool weather, before the day 
is sufficient!}^ advanced, to gather such as have devel- 
oped during the night. Experience and careful watch- 
fulness will enable one to form an accurate opinion as 
to the amount a bud will develop between the hour it 
is cut, and the time it is to be placed on the market. 
For this reason the cutting of buds is work the pro- 



The Cutting of Buds. 87 

prietor should either do himself or train some trusty 
young man to have charge of, and if possible it should 
be done b}^ one or two men, giving each charge of a 
section to which their personal attention is given, and 
for the care of which they are responsible. In this way 
every bush and every bud is known to the person in 
charge, and he will soon be able to keep them in mind 
and tell very nearly the hour in Avhich they will need 
to be gathered, thus avoiding a useless expenditure of 
time watching them, and loss as well from overdevelop- 
ment. 

No more should be cut in the morning than are 
ready, and the stems of these should be put in fresh 
cool water, and placed where they are to be kept with- 
out any unnecessary delay, and they should be gath- 
ered in the same manner throughout the day whenever 
they are matured. If the morning gathering is more 
than can be attended to by those in charge after work- 
ing hours commence, either train others to assist or 
have this work commenced earlier in the day, giving 
those Avho i)erform it an equal amount of time at its 
close. If your helpers are i)ermanently located with 
you, this will be found to l)e the most satisfactory sys- 
tem. If they are not, you must liave others in train- 
ing to till their place when they step out. This is not 
the only kind of work that cannot be performed by 
fixed rules, but perfect system must be mantained if 
we would make the most of our opi)ortunities. 



•SM How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

Buds for distant shipment need to be cut closer than 
those for home use. This must also be performed upon 
tlie judgment of the operator. Time, distance, varie- 
ties, all have their bearing and must be considered, and 
while not demanding the close watchfulness of those 
cut for home use, they should be gathered at least three 
times on sunny days. This will bring them to matu- 
rity evenly, and the stems of those cut in the early part 
of the day Avill have absorbed water enough by evening 
to permit of their being forwarded to their destination. 

The demand for long foliage is now such, there is 
little danger of so many joints being left as in time to 
make the plants unduly tailor ''leggy," as it is some- 
tmies expressed, but there is danger of cutting back too 
far. A new break will be formed and another bud 
mature soonest from a leaf about midway between the 
bud and the union of its stem to the main plant, but if 
this is practiced every time a bud is cut, the plants will 
soon reach the glass, and the amount of foliage accom- 
panying the buds will be too small to satisfy the buyer. 
If cut back too far, the leaf remaining will be small and 
the new break slower in making its appearance, as well 
as less vigorous than it should be. For this reason a 
bud should not be severed without leaving two eyes, 
and three if the others are shown 1)y small or under- 
sized leaves. It is usually the case that the second leaf 
will throw a strong renewal of bud and foliage. 

If underbrush accumulates and has passed its useful- 



Tup: Cuttin*; of Buds. S',) 

ness, remove it; also varieties inclined to make a (jiian- 
tity of blind wood should oeeasionally be gone over 
and enough of it pruned out to jnvvent its bunching 
and making it difficult to reach all parts of the foliage 
with a syringe. At the same time, it must be borne in 
mind the plant must have an al)undance of foliage 
to breathe through, and that excessive trimming will 
impair its vitality if not destroy it altogether. This 
condition of things Avill sometimes be seen in Ameri- 
can Beauty. This rose does not incline to make side 
shoots as do many others, and will oftentimes throw 
several canes which come to matui-ity at about the same 
time. If these are all cut back sharp in order to ol^tain 
the length of stem which establishes their value, the 
plant is nearly robbed of its foliage, and unless water 
has been and is withheld at once, and the plant al- 
lowed to l)ecome soniewhat dry for a short time, the 
fibrous roots will cease to act, the foliage left will turn 
yellow, the plant sicken and randy recover in season to 
be of further use. 

As before mentioned, the cutting should be done by 
the proprietor or his foreman, whenever practicable; if 
not, then under their personal supervision, as it is of 
great importance that it Ijc performed at the right time 
and in the right way. This daily care also brings to 
one's attention constantl v, all the conditions pertaining 
to success — ventilation, watering, syringing, etc. It 
gives also opportunity for watchfulness, and if the per- 



90 How TO (iRow Ct-t Flowkks. 

son is (juick to observe, this experience Avill soon make 
him as mucli of an adept in all tliat pertains to tlie 
health and life of plants as is the physician who studies 
the healtli of liis patient. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

GRADING AND PACKING. 

In making up your shipment, whether for home or 
abroad, carefully assort them into two or three grades, 
as will best suit those to whom you sell, aiul you will 
usually find the first grade will sell, even if the market 
is dull, while those sent in by your less particular neigh- 
bor, unsorted, will often be seen at night Avhere they 
were placed in the morning. It is better to throw away 
all culls, short stems and imperfect flowers, than, by 
})lacing all togc^ther, so impair the quality that they 
must V)e sold for a lc<s price, or, what is Avorse, not at 
all. I am now speaking of the wholesale trade, and if 
you Avould catch buyers you must avail yourself of 
every advantage to display your stock at its liest. 
With this end in view, it is always best for short dis- 
tance shipments, after gi-ading, toi)ackeach variety by 
itself, in long light wooden trays, one tier deep, and in 
such a way that each bud will show what it is. The ad- 
vantage gained by displaying them in this manner 
will more than compensate for the cost of returning 



1 



The Preservation of Flowers. 91 

the empty trays, even if you are at the mercy of an 
express company. 

Mixed colors shipped on special orders, should he 
packed in light wood boxes, with the foliage in the 
center. Between each layer put a strip of wax paper 
to keep them from bruising, and when finished, place 
a small piece of ice on the foliage, binding both it and 
the stems so there can be no motion, and consequent 
injury if the box is overturned. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

THE rHESEKVATIOX OF FLOWERS. 

The usual method of placing roses in an ice l:>ox in 
order to keej) them, is a mistake, and it is worse than 
a mistake to "pickle" them for a prospective future 
demand. 

My attention was once called to the fact that a pot 
of roses was placed in the unused ash pit of a cool cel- 
lar. This ash pit connected with an old-fashioned 
chimney, up which a strong draft constantly passed. 
These roses were forgotten for several days, but to the 
surprise of all who saw. them, they were in perfect con- 
dition Avhen found, and greatly superior in size to 
what they were when placed there. 

This suggested to me that we might be pursuing a 
wrong practice in placing roses in a damp, cold box, 



92 How TO Grow Cut Floweks. 

from which all light was excluded, and that the acci- 
dental discovery just given was the true method. Sub- 
sequent trials proved this to be correct, and for some 
years I have discarded the use of ice as a preservative, 
except in cases of shipment, having prepared a cellar 
for their storage in the following manner: 

Select a sheltered, shady location for a cellar, and if 
you do not wish to cover it with a packing room, let it 
be on the north side or end of some building, so that 
the sun will be excluded. Excavate to a sufficient 
depth, Imck or wall up the sides, provide drainage if 
inclined to be damp, and lay a brick flooi'. Let the 
cellar i)roject two feet beyond the end of the l)uilding, 
and over this place a roof of heavy glass, slanting the 
same sufficiently to shed any water that ma}" fall upon 
it. Arrange a shutter over this that can Ijc used or 
removed at will, giving light or excluding it in the 
bi'ighter part of the day. Make a Avooden Hue, eight 
or ten inches square, and let one end of it be near the 
ceiling of the cellar, from which it should rise from ten 
to twenty-five feet, according to circumstances. Ar- 
range the end that is in the cellar with a slide, so more 
or less of it can be utilized at will, and it will serve to 
carry off all dampness, keeping the air in the cellar 
clean and sweet. 

It may be unnecessary to add that this should be 
kept scrupulously clean, and should not be used for 
general purposes. 



Till-: riMosEKVATiON OF Flowers. 93 

side ventilation should be provided by having one 
or more narrow windows. If shaded so the sun cannot 
strike it either morning or evening, it is Avell to have 
one on both the east and west sides. In the spring 
and fall these will be found very useful, as they can be 
thrown open in the early morning hour, before the sun 
changes the temperature, or they can be opened late 
in the evening and closed before sunrise, which will 
result in lowering the inside temperature several de- 
grees, and if they are kept closed through the day it 
will rise but little. This will require early rising, and 
is not the method for the man who wants to save all 
the work ])ossible, whether it conduces to success or 
not. 

In the extreme heat of summer it may be found ad- 
visable to lower the temperature by the use of ice. 
This will not often occur, and when it is necessary, see 
that it is as far from the blooms as possible, as it tends 
to l)leach all colored varieties. 

As the roses are cut and brought in, they should be 
set on the floor under the skylight, and most varieties 
will be found to improve Avith this treatment, and the 
next day they will be found to l)e in much better con- 
dition for retail sale than when placed there. 

It is a well-known fact in cities that the poor "fakir" 
who stores the flowers not desired for display under tlie 
sidewalk in some cool cellar, keeps his stock longer and 
in better condition than the tradesman who places 



94 



How TO (tkow Ct't Fi>o\vj:ks. 



them in high priced ice boxes. In the cooling ceUar, 
pain,> should be taken to prevent the ingress of warm 
air. The entrance should be used as little as possible 
during a warm day. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

INSECT ENEMIES. 

From the day Adam found himself surrounded by 
"thorns and thistles,'' until the [»resent time, it would 

seem that everything l)eauti- 
ful in nature liad an enemy 
to either mar or destroy it, 
and the higher tlie degree of 
cultivation to which tliey are 
brought, the more numerous 
do these pests seem to become, 
and the m<)re malignant are 
their attacks. Insect enemies 
of all kinds have increased 
so rapidly of late, as to require 
the services of experts from 
Fig- 23. government stations to inves- 

tigate cause and cure, but not in all cases have they 
been able to point out the latter. 

Red Spider is one of the most ancient as well as ever 
present enemies of the rose. While very minute, it 




Insect Enemies. 95 

can easily be seen Avith the naked eye, and viewed 
under a microscope, we cease to wonder at its ravages, 
when left in undisputed possession for any length of 
time. See Fig. 23. 

Their depredations will always be found to be on the 
under side of the leaves, and unless carefully Avatched 
for, their presence may not be known until the face of 
the leaf assumes a spotted ashen hue, caused Ijy their 
having destroyed the tissue, and in such cases they will 
be found in considerable quantity and of all sizes. 
That they should never be alio wed to gain a foothold, is 
the rule, but in practice it is not always accomplished. 

They thrive and multiply rapidly in a dry, hot atmos- 
phere, hence, from the time the cutting is made it should 
be the effort of the grower to prevent this condition. 
They cannot thrive in a moist atmosphere; for this rea- 
son it is desirable to frequently syringe lightly, during 
drv warm days, wetting, at the same time, all wood 
work of the benches, the walks and ground under- 
neath, being careful always to give the spray full on the 
under side of the leaves. To do this effectually, it will 
be necessary to syringe from different sides alternately, 
and if the middle bench is wide enough for a narrow 
walk in the center, see that a small hose is taken 
through it occasionally, lest they find lodgment there- 
You 'ma\^ set him down as a careless workman who 
lets this enemy gain the ascendancy. If, from any 
cause, they do become too numerous to conquer in the 



96 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

usual way, to a bucket of Avater add a pint of very 
sharp vinegar and apply with a hand syringe to the 
under side of the leaves. An application every other 
day, for a week, Avill so reduce them in numbers, that 
at the expiration of that time a proper amount of 
syringing will keep them down. 

Another troublesome pest is tlie Rose Bug. Ardiiiigu'^ 
fallerli (Horn). This is supposed to have been im- 
ported from Europe some years since, and until its 
habits were studied and means taken to prevent its 
multiplying, was very destructive. 

The beetle is about one-half the size of the illustra- 
tion, of a very dark brown, almost black, color, and 
feeds upon the foliage. See Fig. 24. Its presence may 
be detected by small semi-circular pieces being taken 
from the edge of the leaves. It is ex- 
tremely shy, remaining hid in some 
safe sheltered place on the i)lant dur- 
Fig. 24. ing the day, seeking its food during the 

night. Hand picking, though slow and tedious, is a good 
wa3dn which to become acquainted with its habits, but 
if much of a foothold has been obtained by them the 
quicker way is to spread white cloth under the plants, 
then giving the plant several sharp jars, by striking it 
with the hand, they will usually be dislodged and fall 
on the cloth, from which they may be gathered and de- 
stroyed. A careful, persistent course like this is the only 
wav in which they can be exterminated where plants are 





Insect Enemies. 97 

l)ermanent and remain for years in the same soil. It is 
not the beetle, however, -which destroys the plant, but 
its young while in the larva state, by feeding on tlie 
roots, and if they have been allowed to multiply undis- 
turbed they soon become numerous enough to destroy 
whole benches. See Fig. 25. It is the habit of the 
female beetle to deposit her eggs around 
the base of the plant, in crevices of the 
bark, or just under the soil. One writer 
recommends placing around the base of 
Fig. 25. the plants a piece of cloth in which they 
will seek to hide their eggs. This being removed every 
two weeks, thoroughly scalded and replaced, will help to 
exterminate them. So troublesome were these pests in 
some localities a few years since, that solid benches were 
almost entirely given up. Shallow ones were substi- 
tuted, and new soil and plants being used every year, so 
l)re vented their multiplying we now seldom hear of any 
one being troubled with them. They are fond of helio- 
trope, and old plants used for flowering from year to 
year are liable to become infested with tliem if they 
enter the houses. 

When houses are thoroughly cleaned every year, and 
all soil and plants removed, there is nothing to fear from 
them, but it is well to be always on the watch where 
any kinds of plants are retained from year to year, as 
they have been known to attack other species in the 
absence of those thev like best. 



1)8 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

The Leaf Roller, though comparatively new under 
glass, is a great annoyance, and as yet no remedy has 
been discovered for it but hand picking. Its presence 
will be indicated by the rolling of a leaf, an examina- 
tion of which reveals a worm about a half an inch in 
length, enveloped by a web around which the leaf rolls. 
These greatly disfigure the foliage if allowed to remain, 
and I am told some growers find it necessary to make 
a thorough and systematic search for them every morn- 
ing. Protected as they are by both web and leaf, noth- 
ing in the way of liquids or fumes have any effect upon 
them. 

At some seasons of the year an insect known as Thrip 
is more or less troublesome. Prof. Baker, of Michigan 
Agricultural College, to whom we are greatl}^ indebted 
for the publicit}' he has given to his researches regard- 
ing the habits of injurious insects, says of this : " These 
belong to the family Thripidae, the members of which 
may be recognized by the following characterestics : 
They have four long, narrow membranous wings which 
are fringed with long hairs and sometimes have one or 
two longitudinal veins; in repose the wings lie along 
the back. The mouth parts resemble somewhat those 
of biting insects, and somewhat those of sucking insects. 
The bod}^ is long and narrow, the head being somewhat 
narrower than the thorax. The compound eyes are 
large, and there are three simple eyes. Some forms are 
wingless, in this species the male being wingless. They 



IxsECT Ene.mip:s. 



m 




are light yellow in color, very lively, being able to run 
and jum}) with great 
rapidity.'' See Fig. 26. 
There are several spe- 
cies of Thrips. Those ^^ 
troublesome to the rose 
belong to the genus 
Limothrips. These us- 
ually put in their ap- 
pearance, if at all, late 
in the spring, after the Pig^ 26. 

weather becomes Avarm, and the plants more or less 
debilitated. They are very lively, disappearing quickly 
at the base of the petals, when disturbed, among which 
they work, and often render worthless before the Inids 
mature enough to cut. 

Protected as they are among the unopened petals, it 
is a question whether any of the applications now in 
use are of any value in their extermination. None of 
the old remedies, so far as I know, will do it, and the 
vaporizing of tobacco is of such recent origin it is im- 
possible to say what its effect on them may be. Fortu- 
nately their appearance is at a season of the year when 
their depredations do not occasion the loss they would 
at an earlier date. 

Mealy Bugs are exceedingly annoying, but it is not 
often they attack roses if there are other plants at hand 
more congenial to their taste. Should their ])resence 



100 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

be detected, look the plantt^ over and remove by hand 
any nests that may have been formed, as their web is 
water proof. Those scattered on the plants can be 
exterminated by a few applications of kerosene emul- 
sion. Different formulas have been given for this l)y 
various writers, the best of which I think is the follow- 
ing: Take equal parts of kerosene and fir tree oil; mix 
thie with water in the proportion of 3 per cent, to 97 of 
of water, and apply through a fine hand syringe in the 
morning an hour before syringing, at which time wash 
the foliage well, and no harm will follow. Applied in 
this manner two or three times in ten days, will rid the 
plants of them. One grower recommends one part (^f 
kerosene to thirty-two of water, the application to be 
made in the same manner. I have never been able to 
discover that tobacco had any efiect upon them ; in fact, 
they rather seem to like it than otherwise, and in this 
respect at least, lay claim to what is popularly supposed 
to be a luxury belonging to a higher order of beings. 
They especially love coleus, but for use on this plant 
the proportion of kerosene given should be lessened one 
third, or injury may result. 

Although at times the " Thousand Legged Worm '' 
appears in quantity, I know of but little harm arising 
from them save in their disturbance of the soil. If pres- 
ent on the benches, they will often enter a pot through 
the drainage, and the presence of several in a small pot 
will check root action. Both air slacked lime and fine 



IxsE( T Enemies. 101 

tobacco sprinkled over the bench will kill those it 
reaches. 

I remember once filling a solid bed for roses, in the 
soil of which the germs must have been present in quan- 
tity, as, early in the spring multitudes appeared on the 
surface. These were most of them killed by covering 
the surface two inches thick with tobacco stems, leav- 
ing them there a week before being removed. 

Experiments were also made at that time with a so- 
lution of potash in water, with good results. 

Perhaps one of the most destructive enemies of the 
rose is the White Grub. We occasionally hear of whole 
benches being destroyed by these pests, often after the 
plants are one- third grown. If suitable care is taken 
in the preparation of the soil this should not occur. 
A season rarely passes in which some are not found, 
and it is well to have a few plants grown in pots to a 
good^ size, ^\ith which to replace such as may be de- 
stroyed. Keep these shifted and in good growing con- 
dition so that as little time may be lost as possible if it 
is necessary to use them. If some morning you notice 
a plant wilting while all around it are doing well, you 
may be pretty sure the roots have been severed by this 
grub. Remove the plant and search every inch of soil 
around it until the grub is found, or in a few days an- 
other will succuml) to its ravages. When present in a 
bench there is no other way of stopping their w.ork, but 
the better wav is not to let them enter the house. As 



102 How TO Grow Cut Flowers 

is well known, they are nearly always present in sod, 
and sometimes when the supply has run short and I 
have been obliged to cut some just before planting, it 
has been thoroughly examined and if any were found 
every portion of it has been carefully handled and all 
the grubs destroyed. This is slow work and should he 
avoided, but it must be done where soil is for any reason 
provided late in the season, or a whole crop may be 
ruined. Other means of prevention will be found under 
the head of "The Preparation of Soil." 

It is doubtful if anything in the line of insect ene- 
mies has ever caused more anxiety to rose growers, 
where they have obtained a strong foothold, than has 
the insect which causes what is known as Club Root. 
See Fig. 27. 

Evidently this is no new disease, it having been ob- 
served in various species of plants, and occasionally 
roses have been subject to it in individual cases. It is 
the cause that is new, and for its discovery we are in- 
debted, I believe, to Prof. Halstead, of New Jersey, and 
the illustration of it used here is the same as used by 
him in his description of it in a recent number of the 
A merican Florist. 

He found the cause to be a worm formed somewhat 
like an eel, and invisible to the naked eye. The knots, 
or lobes, on the roots are their house, and here they live 
and multiply. The writer remembers to have seen wliat 
he now believes to have been the same thing, many 




Fig. 27. 



104 How TO Gijow Cut Flowkijs. 

years ago, and little doubt exists in his mind ])in that 
their presenee at that time was due to the use of manure 
which came from the eattle pens of a distillery, although 
the manure was two years old when jipplied. In(iuiries 
have been heard for several years from one and another 
as to what was the cause of the trouble, but not until 
quite recently has it become so serious as to demand 
special investigation, some- groAvers having lost whole 
houses through its ravages within a year or two. When 
a plant is seriously attacked by club root, the growth 
ceases, or at least is very feeble ; the foliage turns a light 
yellowish green, similar to a plant when it is said to Ix^ 
" water logged.'' The edges of the leaves in some cases 
seem to burn, turn brown and dry up ; in fact, the ]:>lant 
looks, as one writer expresses it, '' as though it had the 
grippe." Such a plant, if lifted, will show more or less 
of these knotty roots. Should a majority of the plants 
in a bed become infested, it will be better to remove 
and destroy both them and the soil they wen^ in by 
fire at once, as there is no known remedy at present 
which will kill them and at the same time restore life 
and vigor to the plants. These are supposed to be 
brought into the houses in the summer, either liy being 
present in the soil or manure, or both, and as it is ap- 
parent no remedy will easily be found to cure, it seems 
to me attention should be turned to preventive meas- 
ures. Some have advocated heating the soil. This is 
not practicable, as not only the insect, but the life of the 



lN."<ErT Enemies. lif^ 

soil would Ik- destroyed, weiv the temperature raised 
sufficiently to kill the first. Dr. Halstead tells us frost 
will kill them. If this is the case, let those who are 
troubled with theui to an extent endangering their 
crop, try this method of prevention. To do it effectu- 
ally, prepare the soil pile in the usual way. but doit in 
the summer, and early enough to admit of turning 
once or twice. With the appearance of winter, spread 
out the pile thin enough to have it freeze solid. After 
this has taken place, the soil can again be gathered in a 
pile. Should a trial pi'ove this to be a sure prevent- 
ive, it would pay to erect an open shed under which to 
spread and freeze the soil, and thus jtrevent it from l)e- 
ing leached bv the fall and winter rains. If there is 

CD •/ 

any suspicion of their presence in the manure, tlie same 
method should be used with that also. This is, of 
course, practicable only in latitud«'s where freezing 
weather prevails. The writer already (juoted gives it 
as his opinion that the greater prevalence of this trouble 
the past two years, is to be attributed to the fact that, 
during that time, the winters have been unusually 
mild in sections where the most eomi)laint is heard. 
Were I troubled Avith this pe^t I should cti'tainly give 
this method of prevention a thorough trial, and I trust 
those who are will do st> the coming season, if they are 
located in sections where the elements will come to 
their aid. This I know will entail (piite an additional 
amount of work, Init it seems to lie a case similar to 



106 How TO Grow Cut Flowkrs. 

that of a man with a gangrenous limb, — the choice is to 
part with either limb or life. So in this, as it seems 
to me, the most serious matter connected Avith rose grow- 
ing that has ever come to onr knowledge, the cause 
must be overcome, or the business abandoned where 
they have taken })ossession. 

Another precautionary measure is, never to propa- 
gate from any plants which have become infested with 
this disease, even in the least. 

It is my belief that wherever these nematoids are 
present in the roots, even if only one cell has been 
Ibrmed, their power to multiply and spread to other 
roots on the same plant must be accomplished through 
the circulation of the sap of the plant. So very minute 
are their eggs they may be conveyed to any part of the 
plant through this circulating medium. Sever a cut- 
ting containing any of these eggs, root it, and what as- 
surance is there that it will not be the home of a future 
colony. Some in vestigations right along this line, made 
l\v one interested in them, were recently witnessed by 
the writer. The rooted cutting of a rose was the sul)- 
ject. This was rooted in clean sand which had been 
taken from a bank fifteen feet below the surface. The 
callus was reduced to pulp, put under a powerful mi- 
croscope, and in it could be seen distinctly two living 
nematoids. Under a lens of 300 diameters, these ap- 
peared to be about -^^ of an inch in length. Where did 
th(\v come from, unless the germs were present in the 



Insect Enemies. 107 

sap, and descended to tlie callus as that grew, where 
they developed into the forms revealed by the micro- 
scope? Evidently there is still opportunity, as well as 
a great call, for the further study of this much to be 
dreaded pest. 

Green Hy is the name by which the most common of 
all insects is famililarly known, but Prof. Baker denom- 
inates it " The Rose Plant Louse." Its method of attack 
is like that of the spider, puncturing the plant and ab- 
sorbing its juices. Although not as dangerous an ene- 
my of the rose as many already described, because it can 
more easily be kept at bay, still from September to May 
it will be found ever present if measures are not taken 
to prevent it. Its power of reproduction almost passes 
belief. 

Prof. Baker tells us, "one single louse might have in 
one summer six thousand million descendants." The 
danger to be apprehended from them is from neglect. 
If this occurs for a short time, even a few days, some 
of them will have attained a size and strength which 
makes it difficult to kill them, while in number, the 
smaller ones will be legion. 

There is no excuse whatever for the person who allows 
them to attain any size, or even to be seen. It is sim- 
ple neglect on the part of the one in charge, where this 
state of things exists, as there are many devices for 
their prevention. 



108 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

INSECT EXTERMINATORS. 

Tobacco smoke has been the most common agent used 
in the destruction of insect life, but to fumigate houses 
of cut flowers so injures some varieties, other means of 
applying it have been sought that would accomplish 
the same result without damage to delicate blooms. 

Scattering dry stems through the walks or under the 
benches will do it, but to this there are two objections. 
The untidy appearance the houses present, and the cost, 
if stems have to be purchased, for to do it effectually 
in this way, requires large quantities. Others advocate 
the use of tobacco dust sprinkled on the foliage, but for 
roses this is impracticable on account of the frequent 
syringing required. 

Some who heat by steam have tried evaporating 
liquid tobacco in galvanized iron troughs, and strongly 
recommend this method. Not heating with steam my- 
self, I have not tried and cannot speak of it from ex- 
perience. I have tried the same plan on hot water 
pipes, but found they were not hot enough to evaporate 
the liquid. When steam is used, this objection does 
not prevail, but in the early fall and late spring, those 
who have used it, tell me other means must be adopted, 
as it raises the temperature of the houses too high, un- 
less -special pipes are arranged for this purpose and 
radiation from them prevented. At all seasons of the 
year, when this objection does not exist, it is doubtless 



I N SK ( "I- K XT E KM 1 N ATORS. 



109 



the most simple way, and one making the least troul:)le. 
For a lioiise 100x18, four troughs are recommended. 




Fig. 27. 

In order not to have any li(|uid remain unevaporated, 
they may l)e constructed as sliown in fig. 27. A size 
three feet long by four inches deep and wide, will he 
sufficient. To prevent them from leaking where the 
pipe passes through the ends, make a running thread 
on each jnece thus running through, say six inches 
long, and this will admit of using a rubber packing, 
and a nut on each side of the galvanized iron, render- 
ing it perfectly tight, and capable of resisting any ex- 
pansion or contraction there may be in the pipe. If 
the extract of tobacco is evaporated in these twice a 
week, scarcely a fly will be seen, provided they are not 
allowed to multiply and become mature before it is 
ai)i>lied. Another i)lan that is being used in some 



110 How TO Grow Cut Floweks. 

establishments is, to have two or more half barrels filled 
with dry stems and placed in the south walk about 
thirty feet apart. A steam jet is then conveyed to each 
through pipes arranged for the purpose, the steam be- 
ing discharged near the bottom of the barrel; this lib- 
erates the nicotine and the air of the house becomes 
impregnated with it. I have seen this in operation and 
think well of it where stems can be obtained cheaply, al- 
though the labor attending it is much more than where 
extract is evaporated in a somewhat similar manner. 

The mingling of a high strength of tobacco extract 
with steam, and diffusing it through the house in that 
form, is comparatively new, but is to be commended 
for the following reasons: Its cleanliness; no dust or 
litter attend its distribution; no odor remains to of- 
fend those to whom it is disagreeable; the rapidity with 
which it can be administered, saving much valuable 
time; its reasonable cost. 

Observations made last season were so favorable, I 
went to the expense of a complete outfit in September, 
and am now using it with great satisfaction. Finding 
it necessary to change the boiler that tempered the water 
used, one was set that can be changed at will from that 
purpose to that of raising the amount of steam neces- 
sary for vaporizing the tobacco. To all those who are 
heating by steam, no change will be necessary, save to 
supply the pipe and fixtures needed, and I think on all 
large places heated by water the time is not far distant 



Insect Exterminators. 



Ill 




EEyCRIPTION. 

A— Cylinder. 

B— Steam from boiler. 

C— Main distributing pipe. 

D— Water glass. 

K__Valve for draining cylinder. 

F— Valve for distributing va- 
por. 

G, I and K— Valves. 

ij T-*pt cock. 

J _ Opening for supplying ex- 
tract to cylinder. 



112 How TO (iRow Cut Fj.oweks. 

when it will be found to be best to add a power boiler 
for this and other purposes. 

The illustration ( Fig. 28) shows all pipes necessary 
saving those leading into the house through which the 
vapor is discharged. These may be of three-fourths inch 
gas pipe, and after connecting with the main and plac- 
ing a cut of!" valve at some convenient point, drop to 
where they are to be carried into the house. The point 
where it enters should be under and near the south side 
of a middle bench. 

If the house is 100 feet in length, have three openings 
in the pipe for the liberation of the vapor; the first one 
twenty feet fi^om where the pipe enters the house, the 
second in the centre, and the third within twenty feet 
of the extreme end, and when in use this last may 





Fig. 29. 

be left fully open. 8ee Fig. 29. The opening in the 
centre should be half-inch, while that nearest the main 
feed should notbe over three-eighths. These variations 
in the size of the discharge Avill materially assist in the 
equalization of the distribution, and if so arranged as to 
discharge in a straight line with the pipe, no harm will 
ensue from burning or scalding either root or foliage. 
If it is desired to use this line of pipe for any other 



Insect Extek.minators. Ho 

purj^ose, such as the burning of sul^jhur in early fall, it 
will be necessary to equip each disclmrge with \alves, 
and, although thi^ adds to the expense, it Avill, I think, 
Ijc found to be the best way. One of the objects I had 
in view when thinking of adopting this system, was the 
suppression of mildew in the (^arly fall l)y use of the 
same set of pipes. 

In laying these pipes, raise the main distributing one 
to the height wanted; then, from that point to the ex- 
treme end of the discharge pipe, let the fall be gradual, 
in order that no condensation may ever remain in them. 

All the mains through which the vapor passes, should 
be well protected with asbestos, or some other covering, 
as it is very important in the line of economy, that no 
condensation occurs while the vapor is being used. 

It is best to so arrange the pijjcs as to he able to va- 
porize the houses in blocks of four or eight. For the 
former number, the main from the cylinder, as avcU as 
the feed from the boiler, should be of one and a quarter 
inch pipe, all the other connections al)out the cylinder 
may be of inch if preferred. If it is desired to vaporize 
eight at once, one and three-fourths inch mains should 
l)e used. 

Of strong manufactured extraet, one half pint is al- 
lowed to a house of 100 feet. If four houses are to be 
vaporized, place one quart of extiact in cylinder A by 
means of a funnel at J, after Avhich replace the plug or 
whatever is used for closing the aperture. If it is de- 



114 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

sired, a supply tank can l)e cunnected with the cylinder 
at J and operated by a valve, but the lirst method is pre- 
ferable and is little trouble, and one then knows just the 
amount used. With all valves (tlosed except the four 
three-quarter ones leading direct from the main to the 
different housf^s, as well as those through Avhieh the va- 
por passes into the houses from the same sized pipe, open 
the one at K, examining l)y pet cock If if there is any 
condensation in the feed l>ipe. If not, close pet cock 
and open valve (I, winch will admit steam to the cylin- 
der A, which it will 1111 and soon 1)e ready for disti"il)U- 
tion. To avoid the condensation of the vai)or, it is 
necessary that all i)ii>es used for its distribution should 
be hot when it is admitted to them. T^y closing now 
for a short time valve (J and ojiening valve I, dii'cct 
steam from the boiler will accomplish this, and as soon 
as steam is dischai'gcd from the extreme vnd of the dis- 
tributing pipes, clos(^ valve I, open valve G, also in a 
moment after, valve F, and the va})()r will at once be 
distributed through the liouses. From thi'ce to five 
minutes will be rerpiired to emj)ty the cylinder of nico- 
tine. 

Steam then l^eing shut out of the cylinder by closing 
valve (J, all ])i"essure will soon pass off into the main 
through \alve F. ^\'hen tliis is accomplished, another 
(piart niay be supplied through point J, and the same 
process repeated for the next four houses, taking care to 
close the valves to those alread}' finislied, and opening 
those that are to receive the next treatment. 



In.sect Exterminatohs. 11-') 

If eight houses are to l)e vaporized at once, instead of 
four, the process is the same except that double the 
amount of extract must be sup})lied to the cylinder. 

With the price of extract at ^i.oO per gallon, the cost 
of material will be about 10 cents per house. 

To avoid condensation and make quick work, al)out 
fift}^ pounds steam pressure should be indicated and 
maintained until through, ai.d whatever is used for a 
cylinder it should be strong enough to stand that 
amount of pressure. I am using, at present, a common 
range boiler, three and one-half feet in length by one in 
diameter, but before being set up it should be tested by 
means of either steam or h^Tlraulic pressure. 

Tlie thing to be most guarded against, is the conden- 
sation of the steam and conse([uent weakening of the 
extract, as well as the condensation of the vapor itself 
while being applied. If the latter occurs, the extract 
Avill dri}) from the end of the distributing pipe, Avhile 
it should all be sent] into the house mingled with the 
steam. No water should ever be allowed to enter the 
cylinder with the extract, and when through, valve E 
should be opened and any sediment remaining washed 
out, otherwise stoppage, may occur in either the feeds to 
the glass or the pet cock H. 

Another thing to be avoided is entrance to a house 
while the })rocess is going on. or for a short time after 
the vapor has been applied as the nicotine sometimes 
affects either the eyes or stomach unpleasantly. The 



116 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

writer had occai^ion to niii-se a pair of sore eyes for two 
Aveeks after his first experiment, the temptation being 
ver}' great at that time to see if it was strong enough to 
accomplish what was intended. It should be applied 
at a time when all ventilation can be dispensed with. 
If a night fireman is employed, and it will not interfere 
with the usual circulation, it is well to do it early in the 
morning, an hour or more before working hours com- 
mence. It can also be done in the evening, and the 
moisture seen upon the leaves after its use very soon 
disappears and no harm seems to arise from it. I con- 
sider the morning hour, however, fai' i)referable during 
the winter months, while in the fall and early spring it 
will be found more convenient to attend to it after work 
has ceased, and the sun disappeared. 

Two applications a week, and no fiy need ever De 
seen, nor have any who have used it ever noticed any 
injurious effects either on foliage or flower, so far as I 
am able to learn. If applied only once a week, one pint 
to a house will be found necessary, which Avill make the 
cost about twenty cents. 

The tobacco extract used is what is known as "Rose 
Leaf." This is a highl}^ concentrated article, and may 
also be used where the heating system is hot water, in 
the following manner : 

"Apply the extract pure on the pipes when they are 
hot, using an ordinary paint brush for the purpose. 
The heat from the pipes will soon evaporate the moist- 



Inject Extekminatoks 117 

ure in the extract, leaving more or le.sy of a dry deposit 
on the pipes. This should l)e moistened with water the 
next day and on the following day renewed with pure 
extract. Repeat this general programme as necessary, 
depending of course upon the condition of the houses as 
to freedom from insects. In exceptional cases it may be 
necessary to i)Ut the })ure extract on the pipes every 
day for two or three days, but the exact line of proced- 
ure in these cases of exception can, of course, only l)e 
determined by the personal judgment of the party in 
charge of the house." 

There is still another method very convenient on a 
small place, and exceedingly handy when it is desired 
to treat only a few houses. Its work is thorough when 
used for green fly, but has no perceptible effect on young 
scale, spider or mealy bug, as claimed by some for va- 
porized extract. It also possesses the merit of great 
simplicity. Procure three oil stoves having a four-inch 
burner. Place one in the south walk of a hundred foot 
house, and the others within twenty feet of either end. 
Take two and one-half pounds of prepared tobacco dust 
and divide into three parts. A very convenient dish 
for holding this is a common tin pie plate. Give each 
its proportion, place the plates on top of the stoves and 
turn up the flame, but not enough to have it smoke, 
and leave until consumed, which should take about half 
an hour. This process precipitates the killing proper- 
ties of the tobacco with verv little smoke. For a house 



118 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

longer than one lumdred feet, more stoves should he 
used, as, at a cost of seventy-nine cents each, it is not 
economy to spend time watching and moving one to 
all parts of the house. The tohacco can l)e obtained of 
any one keeping florists' supplies, at a cost of al)out four 
cents i)er pound, and if used twice a week, either at 
night or on cloudy daj^s, no green Hy will l)e seen. 

If one or two tablespoonfuls of tobacco extract are 
added to the portion of fine tol)acco that is directly 
over the flame of the lamp, it will add to the strength, 
and the killing i)roperties will ])e greatly increased. If 
througli neglect the fly has become old and strong, this 
for a flrst appplication is very cfFective, and it will also 
destroy such " thousand legged'' worms as chance to he 
out of the soil. 

This remedy, while simple and efl'ectivc. cannot be 
used on such varieties of rose buds :is arc injured i)y 
the use of strong tobacco smoke. 

For roses grown in the open air. Ellwangcr recom- 
mends spraying them with c'.car water, dusting them 
afterwards with powderc(l white hellebore. 



DlSEAr^ES OF THE RoSE. 110 

CHAPTER XXVin. 
DISEASES OF THE EOSE. 
The common saying that "Death hn-es a shining 
mark"' we hnd exemplitied in vegetable, as well as 
physical life, and while many strong plants whieli \)Yi)- 
duee beautiful flowers seem tu l)e in a measure exempt, 
the Queen of all is very susceptible to many forms, 
among which the most nnnmon is mildew. Tliis is a 
fungoid growtli and is produced by sudden changes in 
the atmosphei-e. or drafts of air. As wdth man or 
beast, the power of resistance to disease which a plant 
is able to i)Ut forth, is in proportion to its state of 
liealtli and vigor. 

Pampered, sickly plants that have been poorly ven- 
tilated or overfed, are fit subjects for any Ibrm of dis- 
ease, and especially liable to this. 

The flrst great preventative is a sturdy, hardy growth. 
An abundance of air from the time the plant has its 
flrst shift, is what makes it sturdy. I do not mean that 
thev should be exposed to drafts of cool air, but that if 
accustouKMl to receive all the air possible wdthout this 
exposure, thev will be in condition to withstand the 
changes that come with the varying seasons. 

Some roses are much more susceptible to mildew than 
others, and unfortunately they are our most valued 
varieties and cannot be dispensed with. With the ad- 
vent of early fall the trouble begins, and unless the ut- 
most care is given to methods of ventilation, a little fire 



120 How TO (tkow Cut Flowers. 

started to drive out dampness on a wet day, or temper 
sudden atmospheric changes, before one is aware of it, 
the seeds of mildcAv are sown and the battle with it must 
commence at once lest it gain a foothold, and if this 
occurs as late as October and is not conquered imme- 
diately, nine times out often all profit from that house is 
gone for the season. Both Mermet and Bride are pecu- 
liarly susceptible to this fungus, and no matter how fine 
the buds may be, if the beauty of the foliage is destroyed 
by this unsightly discoloration, they are practically 
valueless for sale as cut flowers. 

There is no season of the year in which plants require 
to be so closely guarded against mildew as during the 
months of September and October. After the weather 
becomes cool enough for fires to be regularly maintained, 
it is much easier to prevent its appearance. The meth- 
ods of prevention or cure vary with different growers, 
but the basis of nearly all remedies is sulphur in some 
form. An occasional painting of the flow pipe after 
fires are started, with a wash made of sulphur and water 
with enough water slacked lime to hold it together — say 
one-tenth — will keep it in check. Another method is 
to thicken linseed oil with sulphur, and apply in the 
same way. To either prevent or conquer before this 
time, the same method may be emplo3^ed through the 
medium of the pipe used for vaporizing. Extend tliis 
pipe temporarily nearly to the end of the house, put 
on an ell, raise from it another piece to such a point 



Disease."? of the Rose. 121 

a^; it is convenient to carry through tlie end of the 
house. Cap this end with a pet cock or valve, leaving 
the same partially open for the discharge of condensa- 
tion. This pipe may he painted as already described 
with the sulphur wash, or two small galvanized iron 
troughs as seen on page 109 can be permanently placed 
on this pipe, a small qnantity of the wash evaporated 
from them, Avhile the balance of the i>ipe is wrap})ed 
to prevent radiation of heat when not wanted in the 
house. In this way, all houses needing it can be 
served at once by turning the steam into the vaporizing 
main. Two applications a week will in most cases pre- 
vent its gaining a. foothold. \'ai'ious formulas are also 
recommended by those who liave used them. After 
preparing them they are applied to the foliage in the 
form of a spray. The oldest of these is the one given by 
Peter Henderson many years since. 

"Boil o pounds of sulphur and ?> pounds of lime in 
6 gallons of water until it is reduced to 2 gallons ; allow 
the liquid to settle until it becomes clear, then put it 
in ajar, or bottle it for use. Use one gill of this to 5 
gallons of Avater and apply to the foliage by means of a 
syringe." 

To this there are two objections. It can not be ])Y0- 
cured ready for use, and appliances for compounding 
it are not always at hand. Another ol>jection is, no 
matter how carefully the liquid is poured off after l)oil- 
ing, the lime in it will whiten and thus greatly disfigure 
the foliage, makinu' the buds unsalable. 



122 How TO riRow Cut Flowers. 

Mr. Richard Bagg gives the following, which is more 
easily prepared and leaves no discoloration : 

'' Put a three incli pot full of Hour of sulphur into 
an earthen vessel, to which add water sufficient to form 
it into a paste, being careful to have all the sulphur wet. 
To this add an equal amount of broken caustic potash, 
stir again and it will rapidly assume an orange brown 
color, become very hot and turn liquid. Add now wa- 
ter enough to make a quart, bottle, and it is ready for 
use. A desert spoonful to a gallon of water used in the 
form of a spray every day will soon cure ; l)ut, as a pre- 
ventive, use once, twice or three times a week, accord- 
ing to the weather." 

Mr. H. M. Wheeler recommends the following: 

"Take one pound of sulphur, one of slacked lime, 
three-fourths of an ounce of carbolic acid, add two gal- 
lons of water and boil to one gallon. Cork well and set 
away for use. Use a two and a half inch pot full to five 
gallons of Avater. Keep the ventilators down two or 
tln'ce hours after application to retain the fumes. We 
use this twice a week, not only as a cure, but a pre- 
ventive. " 

The objection to this, if there is any, is in the line of 
that of Henderson's. 

Prof. Maynard of Ma,ssachusetts says : 

" In the fall of the year I find the us: of a small ker- 
osene stove the most convenient form in which to ap- 
l»ly sulphur; the same being put in a kettle and boiled 



])isEAsi:,>< OK THE Rose. 123 

for a few liours twice a week. The only precaution is 
to use no more heat than is sufiicient to boil the 
suli)hur, for should it catch fire it would damage the 
plants." 

Mr. Sewall Fischer recommends the use of liyposul- 
phite of sodn, in tlie proportion of half an ounce to a 
gallon (^f water. 

Still another formula, from Mr. R. 8. Hallidav, is as 
follows: 

" I would recommend the use of sulphuret of potassi- 
um in i)lace of tlour of sulphur, in the proportion of 
two ounces to twenty-four gallons of water. Syringe 
Avith tlie mixture once in two weeks, or oftener if you 
see any signs of the fungus appearing. I liave also 
found it a remedy for black spot." 

Dry sul})hur applied directly to the foliage by means 
of a bellows or by beating it from a cheese cloth bag, is 
also used by many, and after applying, the house is 
kept closed for an hour and the temperature allowed 
to rise to about 100°. 

One objection to the various washes lies in the fact that 
if used too strong, they will cause the foliage to drop, 
while in plants badly affected, the wash needs to be used 
thoroughly, and this necessitates incurring some risk. 
If sulphur is used in the dry state and care is not taken 
to distribute evenly and in small quantit}", the result 
sought will not be accomplished, more will be required, 
which the subsequent syringing will carry to the soil. 



124 



How TO Grow C'ut Flowers. 



I do not remember to have seen harm from this, but it 
should be avoided as mucli as possible on general prin- 
ciples, for certainly no one would recommend the use 
of sulphur in the soil. 

I have known of several, belonging to the class of 
those who think '' if little is good, more is better," who 
have tried burning the pure article on a hot brick, or 
by throwing some among the tobacco while fumigating, 
thinking thus to relieve the plants of the fungus. They 
succeeded, and were able to carry out both fungus and 
leaves at the same time. This cannot occur when ap- 
plied to the flow pipes as a wash, and the fumes pro- 
duced in this way accomplish the purpose at a mini- 
mum of risk. 

Black spot is an- 
other fungoid dis- 
ease. Prof. Windle, 
of Purdue Univer- 
sit3\ illustrated an 
article upon this 
subject, with views 
^ie. 30. of the disease ob- 

tained through the use of the microscope, and I am in- 
debted to him for the illustrations used here. This 
fungus appears to the naked eye like black spots on 
the surface of the leaves as seen in fig. 80. The growth 
is rapid and soon assumes form under the glass as seen 
in fig. 31. Prof. Seymour tells us tlicse throw oft s})ores 




"Diseases of the TvOse. 



125 



which float in the air and impregnate healthy tissues. 
See Fig. 32. 




Fig. 31. 

The reason why some varieties are more liable to its 
ravages than others, is not easy of explanation. That 
it is oftener present in teas containing an admixture of 
hybrid blood is unquestioned, 
and would seem to confirm the 
theory of some that it is engen- 
dered by such crosses. I am 
more inclined to think it is 
transmitted, and that for some 
reason unknown to us, the cross 
is much more subject to it than is the parent hybrid. 
It is rarely seen in a true tea rose unless it has been 
subjected to contagious influences, while many of the 
hybrids cannot be grown in the open air on account ot 

its ravages. 

Of the many hybrid teas which have appeared within 
the last ten years and have been given a trial, none re- 




12G How TO (Jiiow Cut Flowers. 

main in general use save La France, and Ijotli lliis and 
American Beauty need careful handlinu" in order to 
keep the disease at bay. 

It will have been noticed by those who grow byljrids 
in the open air, that usually they show comparatively 
little tendency to take on the disease until late summer 
or early autumn, then with the heavy dews, cool nights 
and scorching sun at midday it develops rapidly, oft- 
times stripping the plants of foliage in a few days. The 
same conditions, though in less severe form, will have 
the some efiect on both La France and Beauty under 
glass. I have seen a house of the former ruined in three 
days, b}^ an over watered bench being exposed for a 
short time to a sudden change of temperature, though 
the themometer did not fall below fift}'. Tliis teaches 
us that the conditions producing this result must be 
avoided. Another means of prevention is perfect clean- 
liness. Leaves showing the disease should be removed 
and burned as fast as they appear, thus preventing the 
spores from maturing and spreading. Having been 
careful to observe the preventives mentioned, I have 
not had a serious case of spot for some years, conse- 
quently have had no occasion to prove the remedies 
others have advocated, but enumerate them here for 
the benefit of any who desire to give them a trial. 

Jean Sisley recommends spraying the foliage with a 
solution of salt water, in the proportion of six pounds 
of salt to twenty-four gallons of vrater. 



Cultural Notes. TiT 

Mr. Halliday finds the remedy he gives for mildew, 
as found on page 123, beneticial for this also, while both 
Mr. Wheeler and Mr. Fisher recommend their com- 
pound for this form of fungus. 

In relation to its cure Prof. Halstead says: ''This 
trouble may be held in check by the carbonate of cop- 
j)er compound, using three ounces of carbonate of cop- 
per, one quart of ammonia and fifty gallons of water. 
The spraying should be done once a week, using a hose 
and nozzle that gives a fine spray. The point should 
be to wet every part of the plant and yet not to drench 
it." 

After giving the whole matter careful study, I have 
come to the conclusion that wherever it is met with in 
an advanced stage, it is more the fault of the grower 
than the plant — that is, the laws governing a healthy 
plant growth have not been observed, thus inviting this 
disease to fasten upon an impaired vitality, no matter 
which of the various causes producing that state of 
things has been the medium through which the disease 
has been invited. 



CTlAPTEPv XXIX. 

FOKCING VARIKTIES— CULTURAL NOTES. 

The number of forcing varieties suitable for contin- 
uous winte'r flowering, is exceedingly limited, ^hiny 
varieties which are simply grand under glass in sum- 



128 How TO Grow Ct't Flowers. 

mer, are utterly worthless for winter work, and the re- 
verse is also true of some of our best winter bloomers. 
Perle des Jardins undoubtedly stands at the head of the 
list as an all the year around rose, and still, if not proper- 
ly treated, or if the weather is for a long time unfavor- 
able during the winter months, its buds will be more 
or less imperfect. The conditions being favorable, and 
particularly the nights being cool, the most perfect 
specimens are produced in the month of October, and 
again in March on plants that were set late, and have 
bloomed lightly previous to that date, and this will 
occur Avithout any specially prepared soil. To insure 
paying results during November, December and Jan- 
uary, while the days are shortest and often sunless, is a 
conundrum that has confronted many a grower. I am 
satisfied so-called " bullheads " may be attributed large- 
ly to four causes: Too heavy soil, excessive feed, a low 
temperature, absence of sun heat. 

All these influences have a direct bearing, and singly 
or combined, each plays a part in producing unsatis- 
factory results. 

It can be accepted as a fixed rule, that all varieties 
which do well in summer heat, need a higher tempera- 
ture in winter than the average standard. Applying 
this to Perle, we find it does not require as high a degree 
of heat in summer to bring it to perfection, as do Mad. 
Margottin, Etoile de Lyon and others that might be 
mentioned. From this Ave reason that the degree of 



CuLTTRAL Notes. 129 

temperature given it should be above the average, but 
still under the maximum. Repeated trials have con- 
vinced me that in my soil the night temperature best 
suited to Perle during the three dark months, is 62°, 
and prefer 63° to 60° or 61°. Allusion has previously 
been made to a trial of this rose in a heavy soil, and 
the unfavorable result that followed. If your soil is 
very heavy and you have not the means of lightening 
it, the temperature will need to be some higher, 63° to 
65°. A light loam is undoubtedly the best, and if that 
is not at hand, reduce the texture of your soil by the 
addition of one-fourth clean sand. Let the compost 
used be old and well decomposed. Mix all thoroughly 
by turning several times before bringing into the house. 
I would not advise the use of bone meal for this variety 
except in a very small quantity, until Januar}', being 
careful during December not to mulch or feed heavily. 
From the time the buds are Avanted until October, the 
quality of the buds will be greatly enhanced by disbud- 
ding all laterals, but after this date this should not be 
practiced, as throwing all the sap to the centre bud 
tends to malform it. On the contrary, from this time 
until spring, the buds should be watched as they form, 
and if the centre one on the strong shoots shows any 
tendency to curve or cling its petals, it should be re- 
moved at once, thus giving the strength of the plant 
to the development of laterals, which will usually 
form fine buds. With the turn of the season and strong 



130 How TO Grow Cut Flovv'ers. 

sunlight, liberal treatment may be used with safety and 
disbudding resumed. As this is really the only yellow 
rose that can be relied upon for winter work at present, 
a vacancy occurs and a want is felt if it is not in good 
form. 

A careful observance of the foregoing suggestions, to- 
gether with an intelligent application of general cul- 
tural treatment, and I do not think any grower will 
have cause to complain that this rose does not pay him. 

Meteor is one of the roses requiring a high summer 
temperature to develop it perfectly, and possesses some 
characteristics which render it almost indispensable. 
It is the only rose of its color available during the win- 
ter months. Its habit of throwing single terminal buds 
instead of clusters is in its favor, while the length of 
stem and foliage that can be given with each bud ma- 
terially increases its Value for retailing. It revels in a 
temperature of sixty-eight to seventy and will need 
more heat by day than others. Still, air must be given, 
and in sufficient quantity to keep the house pure and 
sweet. It is very sensitive to sudden changes and takes 
on mildew easily, hence careful watch is necessary. 
During the short days, should any of the canes throw 
buds in cluster form, remove the center one as soon as 
it forms. Spider, also, quickly gains a foothold with this 
variety, not that it is a favorite, and toothsome above all 
others, but on account of the higher temperature, coup- 
led with the tendency the larger leaves have to cup 



CuLTiKAL Notes. I'M 

slightly, making it necessary to be careful about syring- 
ing, and to see that all under surfaces are reached. It 
is a rose that cannot be spared, and should be found in 
every collection where enough are grown to be able to 
give it a house by itself, or in connection with another 
requiring the same amount of heat, and even where 
this cannot be done, those growing for their own retail 
trade, will find it to add greath* to their assortment if 
given a warm corner in one of their houses. 

Catherine Mermet, all things considered, has been, u}) 
to the present time, the leading favorite in pink. Its 
habit of bleaching in dark weather is against it, l)ut 
when in perfect form and color, nothing of this shade, 
in the opinion of many, approaches it in beauty. 

Unlike the preceding rose, this requires a tempera- 
ture below the average, and is practically worthless six 
months in the year, because it cannot be grown cool 
enough. For this reason diligence should be exercised 
to have it in good producing form by the last of Octo- 
ber, and this necessitates early planting, .as well as 
constant care. It is not reasonable to expect a large 
cut of buds during the winter, unless there is a corres- 
pondingly large and strong plant from which to grow 
them. Spring work and sales often reach into the sum- 
mer months, retarding both shifting and planting. The 
loss resulting, is noticeable in this variety more than in 
some others, owing to the limited time during whicli 
the buds mature perfectly; hence it is of the utmost 



132 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

importance they should be planted early, in order that 
they may have a large amount of bud producing wood 
by the last week in October. 

As previously stated, the soil best adapted to the* 
growth of Mermet is a stiff loam with little if any admix- 
ture of sand. They are strong feeders, and will repay 
anything administered to them intelligently. When a 
new growth is forming, and just before the buds set, the 
tendency to go blind can be controlled to a certain ex- 
tent, by applying a little less water to the roots for a few 
days, but syringe the foliage as usual. Neither should 
stimulants of any kind be given in this stage — either 
apply when the breaks are commencing, or else after 
the buds are set. Quality is always produced at the 
expense of quantity, and if large, perfect buds are 
desired, the night temperature should not be above 
tifty-five, and if it occasionally falls to fifty or fifty- 
two, no harm will result, providing the plants are hardy 
and if sufficient air is given to keep the day tempera- 
ture well in hand. 

This rose is more liable to mildew than some of the 
other teas, and requires constant watchfulness. I have 
seen the entire crop for the two best paying months 
in the year, utterly ruined by one day's carelessness. 
Some one has said, "Success in this business depends 
upon constant watchfulness every moment, every hour, 
twenty-four hours each day and three hundred and six- 
ty-five days in the j^ear," and if true of any variety, it 
is doubly so of this. 



Cultural Notes. 1o?> 

For a fancy wliite, nothing as yet equals the Bride — 
Victoria being of too recent introduction to have been 
able to prove her claim to first place. As the Bride is 
a sport from Mermet, partaking of all the characteristics 
of that plant, save in color, conditions suitable to the 
development of the latter are applicable to this also. 

We have another useful white in Niphetos, and this 
is the most prolific rose in cultivation, as well as the 
purest white. It is not a strong grower, and if used on 
its own roots should be planted on a south bench near 
the glass. Purchasers sometimes find fault because this 
is not as large as stronger growing varieties bought at 
the same price. This cannot be expected unless the 
plants have had one or two more months in which to 
grow than their more vigorous companions. For this 
reason this is another variety requiring time in which 
to make flowering wood, and should be made from strong 
cuttings, as early in the year as the wood is in prime 
condition. If they attain good size in the bench, it will 
not pay to flower them the second season. If planted 
late and they have not grown too large, they may, per- 
haps, do good work the second year, if one cannot ob- 
tain new and better stock. The only way promising 
success, if they are to be carried over, is to withhold 
water from them in May until the wood is ripened, 
prune them back, take up, shake out all the soil, and 
pot in as small pots as will well contain the roots. Set 
in a shaded place outside, and as soon as thev have 



134 How TO Grow Cut Fi.owers. 

formed roots that will hold the ball together give one 
shift, move to a sunny place, and when well established 
plant where they are to remain for the winter. Far 
finer buds can be obtained by budding as described on 
page 61, (Roses for Summer), the ground where the stocks 
are to remain having been excavated to a good depth, 
drainage sui)plied, and a quantity of rich soil filled in. 
Niphetos will thrive in a moderately high or low tem- 
perature. If quantity is desired, keep them at sixty- 
three to five. If quality, on budded stock, fifty-five to 
fifty-eight. At fifty the flowers will be of monstrous 
size, but correspondingly less in quantit}'. The petals 
of this rose being so delicate in both structure and color, 
excessive dampness, as well as tobacco smoke even in 
moderate quantity, is equally disastrous. 

For a lighter color in red than Meteor, Papa Gontier 
su})plies the place so long held by the now nearly ob- 
solete Bon Silene, of which it is a seedling. This rose 
seems to do well in any good rose soil, if porous and 
well drained. It matures best in a cool atmosphere, not 
over fifty-six at night, and with an abundance of air by 
day, but is impatient of sudden changes or too wet soil. 
While the wood is of good size, it does not grow as rap- 
idly as some varieties; root action is not so vigorous; 
for these reasons it will not absorb so much water, and 
requires a fleet bench, not over four inches of soil, and 
this well drained. If you discover in it a tendency to 
shed its leaves, look for sudden changes in temperature 



Cultural Notes. 185 

or over watering as the cause. To show at their best, 
the buds should be cut before they are open at the tip, 
and be placed in water under the cellar skylight until 
matured. One who has not tried this will be astonished 
at the transformation that will take place in a few days. 
Sometimes in cold weather four days after cutting will 
be required to develop them perfectly and shoAV them 
at their best. If exposed to the light and no ice allowed 
to come near them in the cellar they will retain their 
fine coloring and be of twice the value they w^ere when 
first cut. 

All lovers of color admire the silvery pink of La 
F" ranee, and in popular favor it stands second only to 
Mermet, while Avith man}' it occupies first place. It is 
by no means a difficult rose to grow, though somewhat 
delicate in comparison with others. It loves a soil suit- 
al)le for Perle, ])ut as it is subject to black spot, water- 
ing and atmospheric changes must be carefully attended 
to. To develop well it should be grown in a tempera- 
ture varying but little from sixty-two at night. 

The buds should never be cut until well expanded, 
which detracts from its value as a shipping rose. With- 
in a few hours from the time they are open, they should 
be on the market, undergoing in the meantime as little 
handling as possible, the delicacy of both petals and 
color — which makes them such favorites — forbidding 
what to some varieties is a benefit. 

White La France, a rose of exceedingly delicate col- 



136 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

oring, and a favorite in some sections, requires much 
the same treatment as that ah'eady described for La 
France. 

American Beauty supplies both form and color not 
found in any of the foregoing. Not all who try, suc- 
ceed with it, but the cause of failure is not always easy 
to determine. Some who succeed once, fail on the next 
trial, and it is desirable that all the conditions of botli 
success and failure should be made a subject of careful 
study. No one would dare lay down any set formula 
of treatment, as may be done with some varieties, for 
all such are liable to fail, as the writer has had the op- 
portunity of proving. 

This dear rose — in more senses than one — is exceed- 
ingly capricious, and often found in the condition in 
which a cynic once classed her glorious namesake, 
" when she will she will, and when she wont she wont." 
1 venture the assertion, however, that he whose percep- 
tions are keen enough to match the latter, will usually 
succeed with the first also. Were I to venture any 
cultural suggestions they would be the following: 

Give it the same soil as Mermet, plant early, the last 
of May if possible, and with good strong plants that 
have never been allowed to become pot bound. Do not 
let the night temperature fall below 58° or exceed 63°. 
Should verv thick, heavy canes come up from the bot- 
tom, that will not form a bud when left to mature, pinch 
off such as they appear when from twelve to fifteen 



CuLTUKAL Notes. 187 

inches high, and from one to four side shoots will form 
that are pretty sure to bud. Strong shoots that go blind 
will, if bent over, usually throw blooming shoots from 
the lower buds, or from the base of the plant. It is a 
ravenous feeder and you must do well b}- it if you would 
see a tine growth. 

The remaining roses used for winter woi'k are mainly 
duplicates in color of those already described. Among 
these, Sunset, asport from Perle, and Duchess of Albany, 
from La France, should be given in the main the same 
treatment as described for the varieties from which they 
originated. Sunset is less apt to come deformed in 
winter than its parent, Perle, the buds being formed 
mainly on single stems instead of in cluster form, as is 
sometimes the case with the latter. Waban, a sport 
from Mermet, has, so far as I know, been utterly unable 
to redeem herself in the estimation of growers, and 
must be set down as worthless in most localities, but the 
color so much sought after, as well as good habit, seems 
to have been found in her sister, the Bridesmaid. 

This is also a sister of the Bride and bids fair to rank 
with her in popular favor. It shows no inclination 
to throw malformed buds, and holds its color well dur- 
ing long continued dark weather, the only defect which 
can be found Avith its illustrious parent. I have had 
the opportunity of watching this rose for a year, and 
find treatment accorded Mermet, suited to this also. 

Madam Pierre Guillott is another rose not as well 



VoH How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

known as some but one highly prized by those who 
luve variagation in color. The ground work of lemon 
white, daintily bordered with pink, gives us a shade not 
found in any save Watteville, and superior to that va- 
riety in both coloring, productivness and ease with 
which it is grown. Like many others it is better suited 
for summer flowering, being seen at its best in early fall 
and spring. To be made profitable in winter, it should 
be given a shallow bench near the glass, and grown in a 
night temperature of from 65° to 68°. It is one of the 
best keepers we have and exceedingly productive. 
Those desiring to grow Meteor, and not Avishing to plant 
an entire house of it, will find this to do well in the 
same temperature, the three south rows of a middle 
bench, as well as the south bench itself, being well 
adapted to its growth. Pierre Guillott is another of 
this class though different in color. It may not re- 
quire quite so high a temperature as the former, but 
should not be grown at less than (38°. This also is a 
better summer than winter rose. 

jNIadam Watteville succeeds well with only a few 
growers; with me it does best in a soil and temperature 
suited to La France, but burns easily and needs care- 
ful Avatching and the glass clouded slightly, as soon as 
the sun commences to take strong effect. It should be 
allowed to expand well on the bush before cutting, 
placed in water and kept twenty-four hours before being 
offered for sale. 



Cult URAL Xotes. 139 

Wm. Francis Bennett has been grown less with each 
passing year, for the reason that it is not an easy rose 
to cultivate, and that others of nearly the same shade, 
with which success is more assured, have in a great 
measure taken its place. Its delicious fragrance, warm 
color, perfect form and beautiful foliage, made all ac- 
quainted with it reluctant to part company with so 
agreeable a variety, but one by one the growers have 
abandoned its cultivation. It should be grown at about 
60°, allowed to expand fully, cut and placed in a cool 
cellar for a few hours, when it will gather its petals 
like a tulip and be ready for a quick sale. 

Many who are unable to grow American Beauty to 
{)rofit, find a substitute for it in some respects in Souv. 
de Wootton. It will bear very high feed, and if the 
manure is two years old and well composted, use half 
manure and half soil. Let the soil used be a stiff strong 
loam. Grow in a night temperature of from 50° to 
55°, and do not allow more than one bud to mature on 
a cane. If we could all grow such blooms of this as 
were shown at Toronto in the winter of '90, I very 
much fear American Beauty would fall into " innocu- 
ous desuetude." 

If those who cannot grow Beauty successfully, and 
still desire a rose of that form and color for their own 
retail trade, will give this a trial under the above con- 
ditions, they will find in it a very fair substitute for 
Beauty save in fragrance. 



140 How TO Ojjow Ct't Flowers. 

Mad. Ciipin is a rose which seems to succeed with 
only a few, and these few eastern growers. I am free 
to say I have not as yet found what it requires, nor do 
I kno^v a western grower who succeeds with it as well 
as they do around New York. Those who have had 
the best success, grow it in a heavy soil and in a night 
temperature of 58 to 60°. At first sight, it displays 
but few qualities except prolificness that are calculated 
to attract the grower, and the purcliaser must also be 
educated to its use. Unattractive in color by sunlight, 
its beauty of color is brought out only under gaslight. 
Seen thus in masses with an abundance of foliage, it 
at once chains the attention of all beholders. This 
makes it one of the most popular roses for evening 
decoration. 

For a rose to "till in.'' used either for cut sprays or 
as a substitute for white in designs when that color 
cannot be obtained, probably no one rose grown to- 
da}^ answers the purpose better than Clothilde Soupert. 
Though worthless from a commercial standpoint, it is 
valuable to the small grower for home trade, as it will 
grow in almost any good soil, and in a mixed collection. 

The last rose among the older teas worthy of men- 
tion in this connection, is Mad. Hoste. It requires a 
stiff soil, strong feed and a temperature of from o8 to 
60°. It is very productive, man}- who grow for their 
own use preferring it to any other of its color, because 
they can, if necessary, substitute it for either Perle or 



1 



The Forcing of Hybrids. 141 

Bride. All we;ik wood, as well as buds, should be re- 
moved, as it has the habit of producing more than it cjin 
mature into first-class flowers. 

Among the new roses of more recent date, Kaiserina 
Augusta Victoria and Mad. Testout give great prom- 
ise, and there is no doubt a place for both if they con- 
tinue as they have commenced. The former resembles 
Cornelia Cook in form, more than any now grown, but 
is much more easily handled than that variety was 
ever capable of being. It is an exceedingly strong 
grower, and will undoubtedly become popular wher- 
ever a rose of that color is needed for vase decoration, 
as the foliage is fine and abundant. Mad. Testout re- 
sembles La France in many respects, but is a stronger 
grower, and the blooms larger. It is of too recent origin 
to be able to say just what treatment is best adapted to 
its need. 



CHAPTER XXX. 
THE FORCING OF HYBRIDS. 

The difficulties attending hybrid forcing are so great, 
very few, comparatively, attempt it. In order to be 
}>rofitable, wholesale prices should range from $100 per 
1(X) at Christmas, to $25.00 per 100 two months later, 
and the markets are few that encourage a grower to 
incur the necessary risk. Three methods are employed 
for blooming this class — the solid border, growing in 



14:^ How TO Ghow Cut Flowers. 

pots, and in shallow benches. The first of these nietli- 
ods was the only way nntil within a few years, and Gen- 
eral Jacquimenot about the only variety, and there are 
many fine producing beds of this kind in existence yet. 
Before planting, the ground should be thoroughly and 
deeply trenched, tile drainage provided where inclined 
to be wet, rich soil filled in and planted with Ijudded 
or grafted stock, as these unquestionably give larger 
blooms. After blooming they will make their growtli 
for the following season's Avork, and after this time water 
should be withheld in order to have the wood ripen 
early, in some cases scarcely any water being used save 
that applied to the foliage during the period of growth. 
Plenty of air should be given, but the sash should be 
so arranged as to exclude all rain. After two or three 
severe frosts in the fall, to which they should be ex- 
posed, prune them back to strong eyes, clean the house 
of leaves, give a mulch of cow manure two inches deep 
and wash this into the soil by a good watering. Bend 
over and tie all canes so as to fill the space evenly, and 
for the first week carry a low temperature. As the buds 
swell and breaks commence, the temperature can be 
gradually raised, but should not be above fifty until the 
buds commence to set, which will be in from four to six 
weeks. During this time, or while the buds are form- 
ing, water must be used with great care, but syringing 
on bright days should be well attended to. After the 
buds are formed, both water and feed may be supplied 



Ti!]-: FoK< rxG ok Hyhhids. \4.\ 

more liberally, and from this; time the temperature grad- 
ually raised to tifty-six or eight. From ten to twelve 
weekn are required from the time the plant:< are started 
until the first buds are ready for market. One thing 
to be avoided in a erop of this kind is to have it mature 
to any extent during Lent, but as these dates vary, each 
grower must figure for himself, taking into account the 
ripeness of the ^vood as well as the coolness, or other- 
wise, of the fall. The blooming period can then be 
advanced by a week, or retarded several at the option 
of the operator, by either raising or lowering the tem- 
perature of the house. Less risk attends this than othei- 
methods, and it is well adai)ted to the want of those 
who have a retail trade which will warrant them in de- 
voting a small house to this purpose, but of course early 
bloom cannot be obtained in this way. (Growing hy- 
brids on benches for early bloom is a trade in itself, and 
requires not only experience but great skill and sound 
judgment. Although I have tried this method to some 
extent in years past, the markets of the west have not 
as 3'et given the encouragement necessary for supplying 
this class of stock, consequently I have not given the 
time and study needed to render success assured in this 
method. For this reason I give here the system recom- 
mended by a prominent eastern grower, who has had 
great success in this special line. 

The Hon. Jno. Burton, who has the reputation of be- 
ing the best grower of hybrids about Philadelphia, thus 
states his method of growing them on shallow benches : 



144 How TO (J HOW Cut Flowp:ks. 

" Shallow benches are preferred, not because they will 
produce more flowers, but for the reason the moisture 
is under such perfect control they can be produced 
much earlier than in solid beds. No matter what plan 
is adopted, there is great uncertainty about getting 
hybrid roses to bloom early. I have often had a par- 
tial failure when the treatment has been as nearly as 
])Ossible the same as that given in other houses in 
which the l)est success was obtained. But when you do 
obtain them in perfect form it will repay you, whether 
grown for profit, or for your own pleasure or amusement. 
A few well finished hybrids on stems two feet long, with 
tine foliage and good substance of petal, will give as 
much satisfaction generally, as an armful of teas. 

" The houses used for this purpose are of the ordinary 
l)attern, three-fourths span, the benches constructed in 
the usual way, provided with good drainage and filled 
with soil five inches deep. For two years past I have 
used no manure in the soil provided for this work, but 
have mixed with it flour of bone at the rate of two 
hundred pounds to a house one hundred feet long. 
Were the soil poor I Avould also add one load of manure 
to eight of soil. 

'' For early planting, two methods are adopted for ob- 
taining the plants needed. They are either soft cut- 
tings taken from the crop flowering the last of Decem- 
l)er, or, as is more generally the case, plants made from 
cuttings from the last crop of the ])revious summer's- 



The FoR(iN(i of Hviirids. 14") 

^^rowtli. These should ])e grOAvn in thvee-incli pots, 
rested through Novemher and December, washed out 
and repotted about Januai'v iirst, and in this way they 
make fine plants for placing in the border in March or 
April. 

" A\'hen planting, place the weaker growers on the low 
benches, and those required for first flowering should 
be in position by April, as the growth must be made 
])y the last of July and the ])lants ready for ripening. 
Some growers prefer plants budded or grafted on ma- 
netta, but if I have a good plant from a three inch pot, 
as already described, ready to plant April first. T am 
^^atisfied. 

•'From this time until you are ready to ripen the wood 
every means must be adopted for producing a strong, 
rapid growth. Give them plenty of water, and all the 
air needed for a healthy, sturdy growth. When the 
days are hot and dry, do not fail to sj^ringe often, in 
order to keep down red spider, for if there is much of 
this when it becomes necessary to ripen the wood, as 
soon as water is withheld the leaves will begin to fall 
and the result will be, the plant will have neither leaves 
nor flowers. 

" The ripening of the wood is the most important, as 
well as difficult part of the process. What is sought to be 
accomplished is to stop the growth, harden the wood and 
drop the leaves uithoiit loosing the roots, and this can only 
be done by the very careful use of water. If they have 
10 



14() How TO (Jijow CiT Flowers. 

been getting water every day, nse it only every other 
da}', then every third day, l)ut watcli carefully that the 
wood does not shrivel, or the leaves burn. When water 
is given, do not be afraid of supi)lying it liberally, for 
if the plants are kept fresh bv syringing, or damping 
the to}) soil only, the surface roots will be ke})t alive, 
while all below will be dead. 

''Two months will be required in Avhich to thoroughly 
harden the wood. After this is accomplished, prune out 
all soft and weak wood, leaving from two to four canes, 
according to the strength of the plant, the chances being 
that the strongest of these will break from two eyes, and 
mature buds from each. These canes should be cut 
l)ack to within from six to twelve inches of the bed, 
according to the strength of the plant. The house 
should be cleaned of dead leaves, trimmings and ac- 
cumulations of any kind, by a thorough sweeping, after 
which give two or three light waterings to soften the 
soil. When this has been done, give a toj) dressing of 
two inches of strong, fresh cow manure, and water un- 
til the bed is well soaked. 

"If this is the first house to l)e brought to bloom, it 
will now be the last of September or the tirst of ( )ctober, 
so give all the ventilation possible as they will soon start 
into growth. Syringe every fine day, but be careful 
about water, as the heavy top dressing will keep them 
from drying out very fast, and root action has only just 
commenced. Guard against green fly and mildew, as 
the last is apt to appear with the advent of cool nights. 



TlIK Fol.MINd OK Hviil.'IDS. 147 

" Early hybrids arc apt to be sliort stemmed, so as soon 
as you are satisfied the buds are set, give a little higher 
temperature, about sixty-tive at night, which will have 
a tendency to lengthen out the stem and not injure the 
flowers, if you gradually reduce the temperature some 
time before the buds show color. The flowers should 
open in a night temperature of from fifty to fifty-five; 
lower than that they do not develop freely. 

" Never let the beds get dry after the plants are well 
covered with foliage, as a bed of healthy hybrids carries 
a great quantity of large leaves that quickly suffer if the 
soil become at all dry. Occasionally 1 find it neces- 
sai'v to use manure water after the buds are set, but 
only when the plants are not of the right color, or the 
top dressing appears dried, which will happen if too old 
when applied. 

''After the flowers have been cut from an early house, 
the plants can be removed and the room occupied W'ith 
those grown in boxes foi' the purpose, or they can be 
dried off for about three weeks, the blind wood removed 
and started up as before. By this plan you will obtain 
about half a crop of flowers for Easter, or early si)ri ng, 
when they are still in demand. 

" The treatment of later houses will be the same, ex- 
ce})t the planting need not be done as early, and the 
drying will not be so tedious, the cool nights helping to 
check the growth. AVhen starting a house in midwin- 
ter, use a little more heat and a little less water. 



148 How TO (h{()W Cut Fj-owkhs. 

'' The best soil is a rich, free, sandy loam. If too stiff 
and heavy it is ai)t to open large cracks, when quite dry, 
in tliat way breaking and injuring a great many of the 
roots; because of this it would be well to use plenty of 
sand with such a soil. 

" The varieties mostly grown around Philadelphia are, 
Mrs. John Laing, Magna Charta, Uhlrich Brunner, Ba- 
roness Rothschild and Madam Gabriel lAiizet. Some 
other varieties are also used, but not in quantity. 
Baroness Rothschild will not succeed well if brought 
into Hower before the last of Febl•uar3^ Mrs. John 
Laing must not be dried too severely or it Avill die after 
being cut back." 

. CHAPTER XXXI 

ELOKIST'S GREEN. 

This tills such an important place in all cut Mower 
work, especially in connection with roses, this volume 
would seem incomplete without a short description of 
such kinds as are most in demand. 

For many years smilax was all that could be de- 
pended upon for this purpose, but now both ferns and 
asparagus are largely grown, and in many instances by 
specialists. 

Smilax is of exceedingly easy culture, but to be 
grown to profit, should have under heat and a rich 
soil about eight inches in depth. If grown more than 
one year, it should have a rest in July and l)e started 



Fl(i1{|s'1'"s (ti;ki-:.\. 141) 

into growth in August l»y top di'essing and watering, 
and the stringing should be all done before it makes 
much growtli. After the runners begin to push out 
strong, it should be gone over every few days and pains 
taken to keep the growth of each plant on its own string. 
This takes but little time if attended to often, but wlien 
neglected a few days causes no end of trouble. When 
growing rapidly, it will take considerable water, but 
care should be taken not to have the soil become sod- 
den, neither will it do to let it go for any length of 
time, Avithout examining to see if the bed is dry at the 
bottom, as the under heat so necessary to grow a crop 
({uickly, soon dries the nearest roots if not carefully 
watched. The syringe must be used to keep spider at 
bay, and for this purpose perfectly clear water should 
be used, as any sediment, clay or lime deposit will mar 
the clear glossy surface of the leaves. The usual reme- 
dies for the subjugation of green fly must be used, 
and in the fall when the new crop is growing, grass- 
hoppers must be carefully excluded, as well as con- 
stant watch kept for cut worms. These last are very 
destructive, and sometimes attain a size equal to any 
seen in cornfields or truck gardens. Two varieties of 
cut \\orms are often found, — the dark ones, which as a 
rule cut the plant at the root ; and the lighter brown, 
that climb the plant and destroy tlie young shoots. 
Until recently no means of extermination were thought 
to be practicable l)ut hand picking. Those that climb 



l-")() How TO (iuow Cut Fi.oweijs. 

and work aniono' the foliage may l)e easils' fouiul by 
lami)light, and a few iiiglits oi" careful hunting will rid 
the bench of them. The others are more difficult to 
find, but the same course must be pursued, and thor- 
ough search made in the soil where one is suspected of 
being secreted. A more detailed description of the 
methods of destroying these worms will be found on 
page 167. 

When a crop has nearly made its growth, it ma}- be 
hardened by a partial withholding of water, commenc- 
ing wdth one end and progressing each day as fast as it 
will be needed when ready to cut. In this way, when 
cutting commences, it can all be taken, the bed cleaned, 
mulched, watered and started into a new growth as 
fast as the first crop is removed. A little liquid manure 
applied with the water is very beneficial after growth 
has commenced, and when beds are grown two years, 
considerable of this will be needed the second year. I 
would neither divide old roots for replanting, or grow 
them more than two seasons. It is l)etter to grow from 
f^ced and plant at least every two years, and thus be 
enabled to furnish a new and unexhausted soil. Young 
plants should be well grown in four inch pots by the 
first of August and ready to plant. 

Adiantums are also grown in large ([uantities for this 
purpose. ( )f these, cuncatum and gracillimum are used 
most in connection with cut fiower woi'k and res})ond 
to the same treatment. It is not necessarv to raise 



Fl(>kistV (Ji{ken. 1.")1 

seedlings every season, for if properly performed the 
stocks may be divided several times. This should be 
done in June. It is preferable to divide to crowns that 
will go in a three inch pot, removing at the same time all 
rusty fronds and stumps of former cuttings. If at hand, 
obtain a i)art of the soil from some upland locality 
where wild ferns grow, or leaf mould is to l)e found. 
If these are not to be had, chop some sphagnum fine, mix 
with it flour of bone in the proportion of four quarts to 
a bushel, usingone bushel of sphagnum so mixed, to six 
of good loam. The soil should be good, but free from 
anything in the shape of manure that is not thoroughly 
decomposed, and the manure should be used rather 
sparingly even then. When these plants have been di- 
vided and potted, they should l)e set on a bench that 
has been properly shaded, all drafts kept from them, and 
the house kept warm, damp, and free from the en- 
trance of any air for a few days, or until they commence 
to make root. When the plants are ready, shift to a 
five inch pot, and from this size to an eight, which will 
be the last, and this should be done early in September. 
Crock the pots Avell, and for the last shift cover the 
crocking with a handful of sphagnum through which 
bone meal has been mixed in the i)roportion of one to 
eight. Fill around the ball with soil as first recom- 
mended, being careful to settle it with a tamping stick 
so there shall be no vacancies or loose places. In the 
spring a little liquid manure in the water once or twice 



152 How TO (iKOw Cut Flowehs. 

a week will earry them through, being careful not to 
apply it to them when they are dry. They should he 
grown in a temperature of from 08° to 70°, no air ad- 
mitted to the plants direct, but sufficient allowed to es- 
cape to keep the house sweet. Shading should be sup- 
plied in a way that will be permanent, and for this, com- 
mon paint is best. If desired to giye it a green tinge, 
it can be easily done, and the effect produced is much 
the same as seen in their native Avilds. Warmth, a 
moist atmosphere and shade are the three great requi- 
sites to a successful growth. Of insect enemies, the snail 
is the worst, and must ]>e guarded against. Before any 
plants areputina house it shouldbe thoroughly scalded, 
eyery inch of it, wood work benches and all the soil 
underneath them, witli boiling water. If this is done 
thoroughly, and snails are not brought in afterwards l)y 
means of soil or other methods, but little trouble will be 
had from them during the entire season. I would not 
advise tlie planting of ferns on benches, as they will 
not produce as many fronds by one third as when treated 
in the way described. 

Asparagus plumosus is largely taking the place of 
smilax for decorations. Form a solid bed on the 
ground where plent}^ of head room can be had, giving 
tile drainage and a foot of good soil. For the first sea- 
son's growth, plant as early as you can spare the room, 
giving it as much of the season as possible, l)ut the 
same plants will do well for two or three years. After 



TiiK Caijna rio.N. 1"):') 

the crop lias been cut. if ])encli room is neecled. l)uilda 
temporary one over it and let it go wild until August 
1st, withliolding water from it. This gives a natural 
period of rest. As early as September 1st, clean up, to]) 
dress and start into growth, and by December it should 
have made its growth, been hardened of!" and be ready 
for cutting. As a good two year old plant will make 
from one to three strings, commanding from oO to 7-") 
cents each, it will readily be seen that this is a paying 
crop. 



("HAPTER XXXII. 

THE C'AIJXATION. 

Ivi tlie estimation of most flower lovers, this ranks 
second only to the rose. The beautiful variegations in 
color, its deliglitful fragrance, and good keeping (piali- 
ties rendering it a favorite with all. and I somewhat 
doubt if the rose, even, is now claiming as much atten- 
tion from growers of cut flowei'S as is this grand flower. 
Improvements through hybridization during the past 
few years have been very marked, and to-day buyers 
are oftentimes at a loss to decide which of the many 
varieties offered, they shall replace the older ones with. 

It is a well established fact that the life of all varie- 
ties is comparatively short. Some place the period 
during which any one variety can be grown to |)rotit, 
as beino- limited to five or six vears. It is certainlv true 



104 How TO Grow Cut Flowers, 

— and as we look backward oui- own experience proves it 
beyond question — tliat many well known varieties fail 
to do as well as at first, some having failed altogether, 
deterioration going on from year to year until they 
ceased to be a source of profit and had to be discarded. 
There is little doubt but that the method of reproduc- 
tion is largely responsible for this state of things, for the 
reason that nature designed a period of rest for this plant, 
but Avhen we find a variety suited to our trade or locality, 
we usually keep it growing three hundred and sixty- 
five days in the year, and as many years as its consti- 
tutional vigor will sustain it. That the vigor of all 
plants of this class is greater the nearer they are to the 
parent seed, the numerous new seedlings now produced 
ever}^ year fully attest. It has come to be a fixed oi)in- 
ion, with those wlio have given the matter careful stud}', 
that so long as plants arc renewed from cuttings with- 
(Hit rest— which, by the way, it seems almost impossi- 
ble to give to any extent when propagated in the 
usual way — ^just so long will it be necessary to replace 
the old plants, every few years, with seedlings. Some 
of our best growers are raising seedlings each year 
with this end in view, hoping thus to keep the product 
fully up to the standard in quantity, quality also being- 
increased through ability to kee}) them in more perfect 
health. Some varieties show a greater degree of vital- 
ity than others, but with few exceptions the tendency 
dowuAvard can ])e detected early in their career. Care- 



TiiK Cak'nation. 155 

fill obi^ervation and trial will undoubtedly prove the 
life of any seedling to be longest when surrounded by 
all the conditions of soil and climate where it origi- 
nated. The record of two well known varieties, Butter- 
cup and ( Jrace Wilder, would seem to prove this. The 
former of these grows luxuriously in sections near where 
it orisrinated, while few have anv success with it else- 
where. (Jrace Wilder also is still a favorite in many 
localities, while in others, notwithstanding it usually 
makes a fine growth of foliage, the color of bloom — so 
ex(piisite in some sections — is badly mottled, rendering 
it utterly worthless. This would seem to indicate that 
growei's would do well to try new varieties carefully, 
until they i)rove to be adapted to tlieir soil and loca- 
tion. 

That a seeming necessity exists for a change of stock 
every few years, none who have given the matter 
thought will hardly deny, and the carnation grower 
should carefully test every meritorious variety each 
year, retaining only such as suit his soil and climate. 
The large place this plant fills in the world of flowers 
warrants much more space than can be accorded it 
here, and if all its various interests were fully treated, 
it would require a volume of itself. Opinions differ 
materially among growers in relation to many points 
in its cultivation, and as these differences of opinion 
cannot all be given here, the writer can only state the 
conditions producing success or failure with him. I 



l.')6 How TO (trow C'lT Floweks. 

know of no plant, f^eemingly of sucli easy cultivation, 
that requires more careful study than this, and this fact 
is coming to be generally recognized more and more 
each year. So important has it become in the eyes of 
cultivators, a national society has recently been formed, 
through means of which, it is hoped, an interchange 
of thought and experience will result in greatly ad- 
vancing the interest and value of this general favor- 
ite, as well as stimulate all to a closer study of botli 
its nature and needs. This is well, and everyone 
should avail himself of every means at his com- 
mand relating to its wants, through intercourse with 
others, and knowledge of their experience; and still, 
perhaps more than Avith any other Hower we culti- 
vate, are we at last obliged to fall back upon our own 
resources. And this, because varieties and conditions 
whicli succeed with one fail with another, so there is 
no certainty without a trial — however })opular or per- 
fect a plant may be in one section of the country — of its 
reproducing itself in tliese respects in another. It is a 
study absolutely necessary for each grower to make for 
himself. Only a few general principles can be laid 
down as a l)asis of growth, and some of these must be 
varied to meet the want produced b\' variety, soil, or 
climate. 

With the writer, the following conditions have l)een 
conducive to the greatest degree of success, though 
failures have sometimes come where thev have been 



Till-: (\\i;na rioN. \~)i 

observed ; but, as already stated, these failures were due 
mainly to changing to such varieties as had not been 
previously proved, but which had succeeded in other 
localities, and in other soils. My experience has been 
that cuttings made in December, potted and kept in a 
temperature of from 50 to 5o° until shifted to a two 
and a half or three inch pot, gave the best results, as 
when this shift is given, the centre can be removed, 
causing eyes to break from the base of the plant, and 
if allowed to remain in the same temperature until 
the new roots begin to push, the plants can then be 
I'emoved to a cold house or frame. This not only 
relieves benches always needed at that season of the 
year, but gives the plant a short ])eriod of rest, hardens 
and fits it for being placed in the open ground without 
injury, as soon as the season opens sutficiently. 

Early planting, especially in warm latitudes, is one of 
the great essentials, otherwise I'oot action will not be 
well established with the advent of dry or warm weather, 
rendering the plant liable to a feeble stunted growth. 
For soil, the best in my opinion for field growth, is an 
upland light loam that was thoroughly manured the 
l)revious season, no fertilizer whatever being used the 
year of planting, unless it be wood ashes, bone meal, or 
some known and proved commercial fertilizer that will 
not increase the dryness of the soil. Plant in S([uares 
fourteen by fourteen inches, so they can be worked 
botli wavs with a hand cultivator. Care should be had 



158 How TO (J ROW Ci'T Flowers. 

not to plant too deep, and if done early, tlie V)all i^liould 
be just below the surface, pressed down carefull>% leav- 
ing a slight depression around the plant. If the season 
is dry, a light stirring of the soil each day will be of 
benefit, as will also a slight syringing of the foliage 
just at night. Topping, as a rule, should cease by the 
middle of August, but this must be modified by the 
time bloom is desired, by variety and locality, and is a 
point for each grower to determine for himself. No 
frost should ever be allowed to touch them in the fall, 
though a light frost on acclimated plants in the spring 
is not harmful. Benches should be well drained, and 
the soil in them six inches deep. Early out of doors, 
and earW in doors, is the result of my observation, as it 
gives a strong plant early in the fall for lifting, and one 
that will soon adapt itself to the new order of growth. 
Taking one season with another, in all localities north 
of central Indiana, they should be housed by Septem- 
ber 10th. If grown and planted as already recom- 
mended, b}" the first of September tlie new breaks will 
have formed from the last topping, the plant will be 
strong and in a condition to bear transplanting much 
better than when the blooming stems are well advanced, 
as in this condition the check given sometimes blasts 
the first buds. For this class of plants, and at this 
season of the year, provided the soil from which they 
are taken and to which the}' are to be removed is simi- 
lar in character, lifting carefully with a ball is far pre- 



TiiK Cai.'Na ri<»N. 



ir)9 



lerable to sliakiniiout clvav., as may safely l)e done with 
smaller plants. A preservation of all the roots should 
be sought first, and as much of the l)all supporting 
them as can l)e handled conveniently, second. The 
distance at which they should be planted in a bench 
depends upon the growth they have made in the field, 
as well as to the length of time they are to remain in 
the house. In either case, they must not be so close 
that air cannot circulate freely among them. Never 
plant them any decider in the bench than they were 
grown in the held, or tliey are liable to decay at the 
base and their usefulness be destroyed. 

The method of planting depends upon the way it is 
desired to support them, and this supporting should be 

T" 




Fig. 33. 

done as soon as planted. If the plants of a row are so 
arranged as to come between those of the preceding row, 
they can be supported best by wires running lengthwise 
of the bed, interlaced with string running across them. 
To do this, stretch rows of Xo. 16 galvanized wire from 
end to end of the bench, ten inches apart and six inches 
above the soil. Support these by light wooden cross 



1<)0 How TO (J Row ('it Flowers. 

pieces every twenty feet. Take common white cord, 
and instead of runnin,i>- at right angles witli the first 
wire, carry it across the bed diagonally, passing the ball 
around each wire as you proceed. The distance between 
the strings should be six inches, and when finished the 
surface will be as represented in Fig. 88. Two men, one 
on each side of a bench, will perforin the work rapidly. 
The plants will soon grow uj) through this net work 
and it Avill prevent their being pressed to the ground 
l)y the weight of additional growth. For strong plants 
my preference is for wire netting. Take a roll of two 
inch mesh chicken-v.ire, cut in lengths the width of the 
bench, divide this into two pieces, lengthwise, fasten 
each edge to oak or yellow pine strips one inch by half 
inch with small staples one-fourth of an inch in length. 
A still more durable way is to sew the edges with wire 
to live-eighths inch iron rods of suitable length. Bend 
this now in the form of an inverted V, and place be- 
tAveen the rows, fastening the ends of the strips to which 
the wire is fastened to the edge of the bench, by means 
of common sta])les. This will commend itself to all 
who adopt it, for the following reasons: It keeps all 
foliage from touching the ground at any time during 
the season ; a constant current of air passes through the 
space caused by the inverted V, drying out an}- damp- 
ness that may have gathered ; liquid food can easily be 
supplied without wetting the foliage, and when the sea- 
son is over, shut one into another, they occupy but little 



TiiK Caknatiox. 1()1 

Fpace, fan (}ui('kly be placed in position Avhen wanted, 
and will last for years if properly cared for. 

Earl}^ in-door planting requires watchfulness as well 
as the best of facilities for keeping down the tempera- 
ture. To grow carnations successfully, abundant ven- 
tilation must be provided both in the roof, at the ends 
and in both walls, and for this reason houses used for 
them should never join each other. Build to obtain 
the greatest amount of sunlight, but above all, provide 
all the ventilation possible. The soil in which they are 
planted should not be made as lirm as described for 
roses, but left loose enough to be able to plant with the 
hand, after which, water well. For the tirst week shade 
with a clay wash, put on every inch of air possible, and 
if very warm, syringe the foliage with a tine spray as 
often as it becomes dry, being careful not to saturate 
the soil. Root action under these conditions will com- 
mence at once, and no matter how hot it is, your plants 
will in a week forget that they were ever moved. The 
average night temperature in which carnations should be 
grown for tiowering, is tifty-six, but varies with varie- 
ties, some requiring more, some less. It also depends 
upon the use to which the plants are to be put. If it is 
to till up space that will be wanted for other purposes 
after the tirst crop is off, they should be cut back in the 
Held with this end in view. In this case the night tem- 
perature can be a few degrees higher, but all plants 
Avhich vou desire should bloom from November to Jul v 



162 How TO (trow Cct Floweiis. 

must be given a lower temperature; nor will it do to 
deprive them to any extent of their foliage. I eonsider 
this a fruitful source of some of the obstacles we meet to- 
day, and shall have occasion to refer to it again under the 
head of the diseases to which this plant is susceptible. 
It will have been observed by those acquainted with 
carnations, that the conditions most suitable to their 
development in the open air, are to be found in the 
month of September. It is then they make the most 
rapid as well as healthy growth, and if we would 
obtain the most perfect success it is well for us to study 
nature's methods during the month spoken of. At 
this season of the year the days are usuallv warm, but 
the nights cool, and in the latter part of the month, 
mercur}' often indicates forty. I do not believe in grow- 
ing carnations cool, as it is termed, if that means the 
thermometer should never be allowed to rise above 
sixty during the day if it can be kept that low. Sep- 
tember days are warm, and from this we may conclude 
warmth with plenty of air is not injurious, and if the 
temperature remains at sixt\' during the evening, grad- 
ually falling from that during the night, even to forty, 
it is much more in accord with the condition of things 
in the month referred to, than to aim to keep a low tem- 
perature both day and night. While a mean degree is 
given at fifty-six, there is no doubt l)ut that varia- 
tions during the twenty-four hours of from seventy-five 
at noon to forty or forty-live at four in tlie morning, 



TiiK Caknatiox. K):*) 

jire more in accord with natural conditions, at the season 
of the year in which they do the best in the field. 

The soil, if it be a sandy loam sod, may be made as 
strong as one part of manure to five of soil, but it is 
imperative that the manure be so thoroughly decom- 
posed and mixed through the soil, as to render its pres- 
ence difficult of detection. Bone meal and wood ashes 
are also good; but to be available as food, should be 
incorporated with the soil pile when made, and this 
should be several months in advance of the time when 
it will be needed, in order to have it thoroughly de- 
composed, as the 'structure of carnation roots is fine, 
and they are impatient of any coarse or green material. 
When necessary to supply food during their period of 
flowering, if the dirt has settled so the top has fallen 
below the balls of the plants, a light mulching between 
the rows will be of benefit, otherwise it is easiest to 
supply what is needed in a liquid state, but it is always 
better to supply this in small doses and often, than to 
give it in any abundance. Some growers supply a lit- 
tle with the water every time it is applied to the soil. 
For a change from the usual forms, aqua ammonia is 
good, and if used should not exceed one pint to two 
barrels of water, and in this strength no fears need l)e 
entertained of injury to the plants, even though used 
quite often. As in the feeding of roses, it is well to 
rotate liquids, but care must be taken not to give them 
more than thev can assimilate. 



1()4 How TO Gkow Cut Flowej^s. 

One of tlie most congenial fornis of food is to be 
found in spent hops. These must never l)e used in the 
green state, but should be nt least a year old before 
they are fit for plant food, and if exposed to the air 
and weather for two years, so much the better. When 
brought from the brewery they should not be piled 
more than three feet deep, and turned often in order 
not to have them fire-fang. When all danger of this is 
passed, they can be brought together in more compact 
form, and turned occasionally until wanted for use. I 
would not advise mixing them with the soiK but have 
had excellent success when the}^ have l)een used on the 
bottom of a bench. Before filling Avith soil, spread 
evenly over the whole surface a coat from an inch to 
one and a half inches deep, and let the roots seek them 
when they wish. Eventually they will be completely 
matted with roots if a proper degree of moisture is 
given. Some of the finest and most prolific plants I 
have ever grown were the result of this treatment. 

When it is desired to bloom a house of carnations 
the entire season, the night temperature should not 
exceed 55° during the winter months, nor should any 
foliage be taken from the plants. As the power of the 
sun increases in the spring, a light shading should be 
applied to the glass. Keep all weeds removed, and 
earh^ in March apply a mulching two inches deep. The 
manure used for this purpose should be a year old. 

For spider and green fiy, both spraying and fumiga- 



'I'llK CaIv'NA'IIoX. K).") 

ting must l)e attended to. l)iit never syringe in the lat- 
ter part of the (Uiy, or allow any dampness to be pre- 
sent on the foliage as night approaches. Some of our 
finest varieties, in order to make first-class flowers, need 
to be disbudded. This also each grower must regulate 
in accordance with the requirement of his market. 
Varieties change so often, and there are so manv in 
cultivation, it does not seem best to occupy space here 
in an endeavor to describe their individual treatment, 
and in this eonnection I will only speak of Buttercup, 
as up to the present time it is the best of its color, and 
comparatively few succeed with it. More than usual 
care should be exercised to have every cutting in per- 
fect health when taken from the plant. These should 
be rooted, and treated as previously described, as they 
are more difficult to propagate after January. In the 
field tbey can be planted in a good loam, but for 
bench work they nee<l a stiffer soil than other varieties, 
and I have had the best success on south benches and 
where under heat was abundant. Propagate and grow 
twice the number you wish to flower, and when hous- 
ing never allow any plants to come inside that have 
the slightest indication of anything l)ut the most per- 
fect health. 

The chief insect enemies, aside from those mentioned, 
are slugs, mice, twitter and cut worms. Slugs and 
snails will be conspicuous by their absence if the house 
has ])een thoroughly scalded ])efore being planted. 



\(M) How TO Grow Cut Fr.owEH>!. 

Mice are often ver}^ destructive and must ])e disposed 
of by trapping, or by poison. Twitter is caused by a 
small insect similar to the green fi\^ — so says Prof. Ba- 
ker — and the remedies effectual with that, are with this 
also. Their presense becomes known when the leaves 
are seen to curl, and the shoot curve as though it 
had been stung. For a remedy in the field, kerosene 
emulsion is recommended by the same authority. Not 
having been troubled with it since knowing what it 
was, I have not had occasion to try this remedy. Cut 
worms work on the buds, cutting a small hole through 
its case and eating off the petals at tlieir juncture with 
its base Their work is done at night, secreting them- 
selves in the soil, under anything on its surface, or 
among the foliage at the base of the plant as soon as 
dawn appears. The appearance of cut worms among 
carnations is comparatively new, and the writer has 
been afflicted with their presence but once, in the win- 
ter of '92. The fact that only one variety was at- 
tacked by them, although there was another in the 
same house, led to the conclusion the eggs must have 
been deposited on the plants while in the field, as no 
others were affected, nor were other carnations growni 
in the same part of th(^ field as those U])on which 
the worms were found. When their depredations are 
first noticed, they should be attended to at once, or. 
every bud is lia])le to 1)e destroved in a short time. 
In the instance referred to, but little attention was 



The Cak'xation. Kh 

paid to tlieni at first, tlie carnations were removed 
when the bencli was needed, a little sand spread 
over the soil and the bench filled with plants of 
Meteor in five inch pots. After these had been there a 
short time, it was noticed something was at work on 
the foliage, but no worms were found at first, but in a 
short time they had grown so rapidly that in two nigh's 
they nearly stripped the ])lants of foliage. A search 
among the pots unearthed nearl}- a quart two-thirds 
grown, on a bench of seven hundred S(piare feet. Al- 
though no opportunity has been given to try it, I feel 
confident a dose of vaporized extract applied at night 
would exterminate them. Mr. Lombard, a large grower 
in Massachusetts, recommends Dalmation powder in 
about the proportion of one pound to 1, ()()() plants, 
dusting it all over the foliage. He states lie has tried 
it for both carnations and smilax, with tlie result that 
large quantities were killed, and that three applications 
rid the place of them. 

Carnation blooms are benefited by keeping the stems 
in water in a cool place a few hours before placing 
them on the market. If you would establish a repu- 
tation for first-cdass fiow^ers, careful attention must 1)e 
given to every detail connected with their growth. 
Keep i)ace with the times by proving varieties that 
take high rank elsewhere, and if adapted to youi" soil, 
be in a condition to compete with others for the pat- 
ronage of vour section. As the cut fiower business is 



IBS How TO (lifow Cir Fi.owEi.'s 

conducted now, it i.s the man who keeps both even and 
ears open to what is going on around him, who reaps 
profit from his investment. Study carefully all the 
peculiarities of both plant and soil. Allow no flowers 
to go on the market until fully developed, and thus in- 
crease both size and value. Above all, do not place 
first and second-class flowers together. Bunch the lat- 
ter by themselves or discard them altogether, the others 
Avill bring more money, even if their number is con- 
siderabh^ less. As fast as a variety ceases to do as well 
with you as in former years, no matter how great a 
favorite it has been, substitute for it new and younger 
l)lood from among the varieties you have tested, and 
that have proved to be adapted to your locality. 

C HAPTER XXXIII. 

DISEASES OF THE CAKXATIOX. 

The subject of the various diseases to which this plant 
is liable, is being made a careful study by men well 
qualified for this particular line of investigation. Mucli 
has already been revealed by these researches, much 
also is yet to be discovered as to prevention and cure. 
No doubt exists in my mind but what the disease de- 
nominated the "yellows" in former years, was caused 
to a great extent through exhausted vitality. The 
plant had served its day and generation, had l)een 
grown without cessation, and either died of [)remature 



DiSKASKS OF TIIF. (' A UN AT K ).\. 1<)J) 

old age or l)ecame so debilitated as to fall an easy })ri'y 
to some of the diseases about whieli ue then knew so 
little. I remember also that some years sinee, when 
living where land was scarce, this trouble was more 
frequent among plants grown for two or more years upon 
the same ground. An experience of many years with 
various species of plants, has convinced me that almost 
without exception, health and vigor are best preserved 
when a system of rotation is strictly adhered to. I do 
not believe the carnation is an exception to the gen- 
eral rule, but on the contrary, that disease is less liable 
to attack plants full of vigor, and that this vigor is in- 
creased when the phmts are grown in fresh soil each 
season. 




Fig, 34. 

Rust, a later and very dangerous enemy, scientists 
tell us is a fungus, and spreads with great rapidity. It 
is only within a few days that the writer has seen this 
pest, and from what little was seen of it then, he be- 
came convinced it was a disease every grower should 
take the utmost precaution to avoid. There is no 
doubt but that it is highly contagious, and if once seen, 
vigorous measures should be taken to stamp it out. It 
first appears on tlie leaves in form of small brown 



170 How TO (Jkow ('it Fi.owkijs. 

spots. These are raised above the surface and will rub 
off and discolor the hand when it is passed over them. 

Prof. Arthur, of Purdue University, describes this 
very fully in a paper read l)efore the American Carna- 
tion Society at Buftalo. in 1S92, from which I make 
the following extract : 

"Rust has long been known in Europe, and is especi- 
ally common in Italy and Germany. The first impres- 
sion that it was brought from Europe in the importa- 
tion of l.SV)l is found to be erroneous, it having been 
found by Prof. Taft, of Lansing, Mich., in 1890, and 
was known in some places along the Hudson River 
three years previous. So far as present information 
goes, the distribution of carnation rust in America has 
been accomplished within four years. It is now known 
to occur in Massachusetts, Pennsylvania, Xew York, 
Ohia, Michigan and Indiana, and a few infected centres 
might distribute the rust by means of rooted cuttings, 
as widely as there is a demand for the flowers." 

" A precautionary measure, after rust has appeared 
in a house, is to keej) the air as cool and dry as is com- 
patible with the health of the plants, thus retarding 
the growth and distribution of the spores." 

" Wherever the rust has obtained much headway, 
and especially where it appears shortly after the plants 
have been housed in the fall, the use of some fungi- 
cide is almost imperative." 

The full text of this paper may be found in Vol. 7, 



Diseases of the Caknation. 171 

page 587 of the American Florist. Anotiier illustrated 
paper from the pen of Prof. Atkinson, of Cornell Uni- 
versity, may also be found in Vol. 8, No. 247, of the 
same publication. The main thing is to avoid rust by 
being careful not to import upon the place any diseased 
plants, as well as to use preventive measures, and not 
wait for the disease to develop and have to burn the 
cro}). 

Mr. Ward, a large grower in the state of New York, 
recommends the following treatment: 

CritArnK A<iKNciES Uskd — Bordeaux Mixture Dry, Bor- 
deaux Mixture Liquid, Ammonia Solution and Fostite. 

K()i{MX'LA — Dry Bordeaux. — Dissolve 4 lbs. sulphate of cop- 
per in two gallons boilinti water. Dry slack two bushels of 
(juick lime with the copper solution. The lime must be dry 
powder alter slacking. 

HoHDEAi'x MixTiuK— Liquid.— Dissolve lbs. sulphate of 
copper in two uallons l^oiling water and let cool. Mix one peck 
quick lime in six <>;allons water and let cool and mix the two 
solution?. Pour same into a kerosene l)arrel containing 40 gal- 
lons water and stir while using. 

Ammonia Sou tion. — Two quarts ammonia in which dis- 
solve (me pound sulphate of copper, and pour this solution in 
21) or 80 gallons of water. 

THEATMENT. 

l)ii'iMN(;. — All youuii" plants are immersed in the liquid Bor- 
deaux mixture when set in the open liround. All mature plants 
are immersed (tops only, not the roots) in the same nuxture 
when l>enchiuii" in. 

Si'i;avin«4. — All young plants are sprayed Avith either the 
liquid Bordeaux or ammonia solution once in two weeks while 
under tilass. and all tield plants are sprayed the same intield. 



1T2 



How TO Grow Cut Flowehs. 



FosTiTE. — Under glass all plaut houses are l>lowii full of 
Fostite in a fine cloud every dark, cloudy day. 

Dry Bordeaux is sprinkled over all paths and under all 1 tenches 
everv two months. 



Fig. 35. 



Diseases of the Carnation. 



173 



These precautionary measures it is well to adopt if 
there is the least suspicion of the presence of the 
disease. If it should appear, avoid using water 
on the foliage save in the distribution of the solu- 
tion, and remove and burn all affected plants 
at once. 

The other diseases to which the 
carnation is subject are : Leaf 
spot (Septoria), as shown in 
Fig 35. Anthracnose, as 
seen in Fig. 06, and 
])acterial disease 
showni in Fig. 87. 
These engravings 
were used in illus- 
trating the pai)ers 
read before the Car- 
n atio n Society at 
Pittsburgh in Febru- 
ary of the present 
year by Professors 
Atkinson and Hal- 
stead. A fuller de- 
scription of the en- 
gravings will be 
found in those pa- 
pers as published. 



Fig. 36, 

Bv these illustrations readers will l)e able to ri^cog- 




174 How TO (fROvv Cut Ft^oweks. 

nize the difterent forms of disease as they may develop, 
without the detailed description so clearly given in tlie 
pages referred to. The practical question which arises 
is, how shall these diseases be avoided, oi- if they ap- 
pear, what is the remedy. In answer to this last ques- 
tion Prof. Halstead, who has given this matter careful 
study, recommends the following formulas: 

"(1.) Potassium sulphide solution: Potassium sul- 
phide, one ounce; water, ten gallons. The potassium 
sulphide is a solid, costing fifteen cents a pound, and is 
easily dissolved in the water as needed. In some cases 
it has been most convenient for me to dissolve the 
solid in a quart bottle and ask the gardener to pour out 
the required amount as needed. The application is by 
spraying thoroughly about once a week. The results 
have been so marked that in one instance a large 
grower of carnations after using this mixture fora sea- 
son wrote me that he felt confident that it had saved 
him a great deal and that if generally used it would 
prove a blesssing to all who are affected with carnation 
diseases of the sorts above mentioned. Possibly it 
would be of benefit when rust is the leading enemy. 

" (2. ) The Bordeaux mixture. Perhaps the best fun- 
gicide now in use in orchard and garden is the Bor- 
deaux mixture. This is made as follows : Copper sul- 
phate, three pounds; lime (unslacked), two pounds; 
water, twenty- two gallons. Dissolve the sulphate of 
copper in one vessel and slack the lime in another, 



Diseases of the Carnation. 17') 

then mix the two and dilute to the required strength. 
This is the so-called half-strength Bordeaux mixture 
which has, in many instances, during the past season, 
proved as effective as the full strength, and for car- 




Fig. 37. 

nations will be strong enough. It is seen that this 
is a lime mixture and the foliage will be covered with 
a bluish white layer. But it is to be remembered that 
this does not differ greatly from the natural color of 



176 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

the carnation leaf and stem, and it is one that can be 
quickly removed from the portion sent to market. A 
weekly spraying of the plants with this Bordeaux mix- 
ture should prove remunerative in houses troubled 
with fungous enemies. The Bordeaux mixture is in- 
expensive, the copper sulphate (blue vitriol or blue 
stone) costing eight cents per pound. 

"(3.) The ammoniacal solution : A third compound 
that does not have the lime and therefore gives the 
sprayed plants no marked coating is the ammoniacal 
solution of copper carbonate. Its formula is as follows: 
Copper carbonate, five ounces; aqua ammonia (26)^ 
five pints ; water, fifty gallons. The copper carbonate 
is first mixed with water into a paste and the ammonia 
slowly added until the solution becomes clear. This 
can be kept in a bottle and the required amount diluted 
as desired for spraying. The carbonate of copper costs 
thirty-five cents a pound and ammonia sixteen cents a 
quart, and therefore enough for spraying a large house 
weekly is a small bill of expense. 

" Taking all things into consideration it is probable 
that the three preparations above described are arranged 
in the order of excellence, the best being placed last." 

The disease called anthracnose, is 1)etter known by 
fiorists as ''the cutting bed fungus." This is the form 
so destructive at times to cuttings when in the sand. 
Hard wooded cuttings are often blackened by it, but 
its ravages are greatest among the more tender kinds,. 



J)lSEA?<ES OF THE CaHNATION. 177 

among whit-h is the carnation, and it is not unusual to 
find large numbers destroyed in a single night. Tntil 
([uite recently nothing has been known that Avould 
keep this in check. 

The remedy I am now using for this form of fungus 
is similar to Prof. Halstead's No. 3, and is 1 lb. of the 
sulpliate of copper dissolved in 2 qts. of ammonia. 
In wetting down the sand before the cuttings are put 
in, use one pint of the solution in 60 gallons of water. 
Should any signs of fungus appear while the cuttings 
are in the sand, sprinkle them lightly with a solution 
made by adding one ounce of the original solution to a 
common can of water. 

One other form of disease descriljed by Professor 
Halstead he calls •' Rosette. " So far as my obser- 
vation extends, this is seen in Buttercup more fre- 
quently than in any other variety. Instead of grow- 
ing so freely in the held as to need topping, the plant 
affected rarely throws up a flowering shoot. It seems to 
be dwarfed, and although clothed with the usual amount 
of foliage, this is so close jointed as to present the form 
suggested by the name Rosette. The first thing notice- 
able about these plants is their color. Instead of re- 
taining the beautiful dark green of perfect health, they 
gradually turn to a lighter hue, and if left to them- 
selves either remain stunted through the season, or die. 

I think it extremely doubtful if any remedy will 
reach and cure this form of disease. Tlie best way is 



178 How TO Ghow CiT Floweks. 

to remove them root and biiineh at once, and burn 
them. No ph\nts should ever be removed from the 
field to a flowering bench that s^how the least traces of 
this disease, and if it appears, as it sometimes will, on 
seemingly healthy plants after removal to the house, 
drastic measures should at once be adopted. 

The first impression produced by a careful examina- 
tion of the illustrated papers previously referred to, on 
these various diseases, is, that with such an array of 
foices opposed to success, the fight is an une<iual one, 
and the odds greatly against us. Be that as it may, it 
is a plain case of conquering or of being conquered, 
and while it is well to use every means at our command 
for overcoming and eradicating disease when present, 
ought Ave not to look for preventive, rather than 
curative, agencies? Have we not been violating some 
of nature's laws, and thus weakened the resisting power 
of our plants. 

I am firmly convinced that a radical change must 
take place in the cultivation of the carnation if we 
would preserve its flowing properties. In true Ameri- 
can style we have rushed this plant, as Ave do everyr 
thi ng else Ave think Ave see any money in, and in so 
doing have nearly doubled the time nature designed it 
to be in active working condition. 

We claim that exhausted vitality must l)e restored 
through the medium of healthy seedlings. After Ave 
have obtained these. Avhat do we do? Plant a l)ench or 



Diseases of the Cawnation. 17*.> 

a lioiise with them, try to mature fine show hlooms, at 
the same time stripping the plants of every euttinu 
that can be obtained for sale. Disease is thus invited, 
and I think that eases in which the invitation is not 
(|uiekly responded to, will l)e found to be the excep- 
tion. Two instances of this kind have come under 
my observation within twelve months, one of them 
upon my own place. The varieties in question were 
very strong growing two year old seedlings, apparently 
in perfect health. The treatment given them was such 
as has just been described, and resulted in l>oth in- 
stances in a bad case of the spot disease, while other 
varieties within the same walls, treated in a more hu- 
mane manner, gave no indication of its presence. 

While the removal of a few cuttings from healthy 
plants that produce them in abundance may be no in- 
jury, yet as a rule such as are set apart , for tiowering, 
especially if cut with long stems, should be given all 
the foliage with which nature surrounds them. 

Again we should be more in the line of natural con- 
<litions could we give our young plants a longer period 
of rest. This can only be done by planting for this 
special purpose in the spring, taking out the bloom 
l»uds, and from the laterals which form, propagate the 
stock for next season^s planting. This should be done 
early enough to have them rooted and boxed, ready to 
set away in a cool place, as soon as cold weather comes. 
In this way, from three to four months of rest can be 
given them. 



ISO How TO (Ikow Ctt Fr.owEKs. 

Still another method is to grow tlie i)laiits as before 
described, but not to remove the bloom buds until 
time to take up the plants. They should then be pot- 
ted, and after roots have formed, the plants should be 
kept in a dormant state during the winter. Whenever 
the cuttings are wanted, the plants can be brought in- 
to a warm house and the laterals will soon form. This 
is the only way in which perfect rest can be given 
and at the same time have young spring struck cut- 
tings for field planting. 

If a similar system were to be pursued with winter 
grown cuttings offered for sale, it would greatly lessen 
the danger we so much desire to avoid. On these no 
tiowers should be allowed to mature. As soon as the 
l)ud fairly appears, break it off, removing with it such 
laterals as throw bloom, and from the rest make the 
desired stock, leaving the foliage at th(^ base of the 
plant for its support. The plants should also be grown 
in a temperature somewhat below the average. 

The objection which will l^e raised l)y growers to 
this method, is its expense. Two or thre times as 
much would have to 1)e paid for cuttings as they can 
now be obtained for, in order to make it remunera- 
tive, but would it not be to the interest of the buyer 
to insist upon this class of stock and be willing to pay 
a fair price for it, rather than to risk the income from 
an entire crop upon a cheaper grade? It goes without 
saying that carnation growers will l)c willing to give 



Chkysanthemums. ISl 

us wliatever wo ai-c willing to pay fur, Init in the pres- 
ent headlong race for trade the price of rooted carna- 
tion cuttings has fallen Ijelow that at which a tirst-class 
article can he produced. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

('HHYSANTHEMl'MS. 

The tirst (piestion for the cut flower grower to decide 
is, not how many he shall grow, or in what form he 
shall grow thenj, hut shall he grow any. Will the mar- 
ket upon which 1 depend for their sale, consume the 
crop at prices that will compensate me for the labor? 
Another query must also be answered while this is un- 
der consideration. If a house is devoted to them, what 
crops will follow that can l>e disposed of, and that will 
consume the space without loss of time? The amount 
of bloom placed on the market each season, l)y those 
who plant and gather it in much the same way they 
would sow and reap a sheaf of grain, and with as little 
care, is appalling. If this is the only class of bloom 
your market will take, it is better to leave their culti- 
vation to others, saving what little of time and strength 
would l)e expended on them, for other things. 

If on the other hand the taste of the consumer in 
your vicinity has l)een educated to look for, and be 
willing to ])ay for a better article, n(^ one who grows 



182 How TO Gkow Cut Flowers. 

and sells his own product without the intervention of 
middlemen, will need to hesitate long as to the form in 
which they are to be grown or as to what shall succeed 
them. The demand will regulate the form, and on all 
retail places there are many ways of supplying a crop 
to occupy the vacant space. With the commercial 
grower, the matter of succession must be decided be- 
fore commencing. \f your market will take a crop of 
Harrisii lilies for Piaster, or of hybrids that have l)een 
grown through the summer in boxes, then a crop of 
chrysanthemums will add materially to the income to 
be derived from a house, as either of the above can then 
'he followed by a crop of teas or hybrids for the season 
following, and no time will be lost. 

When the market demands well grown sprays, the 
cuttings should be made in April, potted, toi>ped once, 
shifted, and planted in the bench in June twelve inches 
each way, and the first shoots pinched out once only. 
As they grow, all weak wood should be removed, and 
the buds on those allowed to mature, thinned to the 
number of blooms desired in a spray. This method 
will not give as strong or straight stems as when each 
plant is allowed to mature but one spray. When 
grown in the last named form the cuttings may 1)6 
made and the planting done two or three weeks later. 
When grown to single stem the top should never be 
removed, but every facility given the plants to make 
straight stems l)y staking them at the proper time. 



('lIRYSAXTlIEMrMS. 18o 

Thev can also l:>e more easily eared for when the roAvs 
jKTOss a bench are 12 inches apart, but the plants con- 
stituting the row may be six inches apart. 

Again, if single flowers on long stems are desired, 
soft cuttings should be rooted by the first of July, and 
l)lanted as soon as ready from a two inch pot, in four 
inches of soil, six inches by 12, as before described. 
Care should be taken to plant the low growing varieties 
where there is the least amount of head room. If they 
are to be supported by Avire stakes, the upper wires 
should be in position before the bench is planted. 

The soil should be composed of two-thirds decayed 
sod of a rather light texture, and one-third well com- 
posted manure, to which add fifty lbs of flour of bone 
to the amount of soil necessary for a hundred foot 
house, (live them plenty of air without drafts. See 
that they never lack for water, or receive a check of 
any kind from the time the cutting is made, until the 
bloom is perfected. Remove all laterals as fast as they 
appear, and as soon as the buds are formed, remove all 
but one. This should usually be the crown, but if 
that is in any way imperfect, select the best one. 
From this time until the flowers show color, li(iuid 
manure should be supplied liberally, but not too strong, 
or when the soil is in the least dry. In whatever por- 
tion of the house your highest colors are planted, see 
that the glass is shaded slightly, or the full sunlight 
will fade the bloom. 



l''>4 How TO Grow Cit Flowkrs. 

When flowers are grown for exhibition purposes, the 
plants should be given more room, at least 10x12 inches. 

Borne prefer planting 12 inches each way when grow- 
ing for single blooms, the plants being rooted in April, 
and pinched back twice, giving in this way three or four 
individual flowers and stems to a plant. The same 
objection is met in this method as when they arc 
grown for sprays, the crooked stem lessens their value 

Exhibition flowers, or such as it is desired to keep a 
week or more, should be cut just before they are fullv 
developed, placed in water immediately, and set on a 
cool, light cellar bottom. Each morning the water 
should be changed and the stems freshened by cutting 
a thin slice from the ends. 

It does not properly come within the province of this 
work, to treat of growing pot plants for exhibition pur- 
poses, but it may not be amiss to speak of growing sin- 
gle flowers in small pots, as. some may desire to grow a 
few in this way, who cannot devote a house to them. 

The cuttings should be made the last of June. Par- 
ticular care should be taken to see that each pot has a 
good sized hole for drainage. When they need a shift, 
they should be changed from a two inch to a four inch 
pot and matured in that size. As soon as they need it, 
supply them with a neat stake of sufficient length to 
confine the plant to as it groAvs. Great care must be 
taken not to let them become dry in the least. On hot 
or windy days, examine them every hour. Keep them 



ClIKYSANTlIEM IMS. 185 

inside tlirougli the entire season, encouraging them by 
every possible means to make as rapid a growth as is con- 
sistent with sturdy vigor. Use weak liquid manure 
water every day. Keep all laterals removed, and just 
as the buds begin to show, strew a liberal sprinkling 
of flour of bone on the sand on which they stand. 
As soon as the bud that is to remain is selected, and 
the others are removed, handle and size them, giving 
to each plant three inches of space each way, and place 
them where they are to remain trit/ionf hciiu/ diMirrJx'd 
((gain until the flower is perfected. It will be but a 
few days before the roots will go through the bottom 
of the pot and spread out like a fan in search of the 
bone. This will cause the plants to produce flowers of 
enormous size compared with the amount of pot room 
given to the roots, and when placed where the size 
of the pot and bloom can be compared, beholders are 
filled with wonder and amazement at tlie result. Of 
course the}' are in blissful ignorance as to the cause, 
but that does not warrant any one in saying it is a 
trick. There are no tricks in our business. They 
were all appropriated by the trades which preceded 
us. If it is desired to exhibit any of these in pots, the 
roots should be severed that are outside of them, and 
in doing this no harm will result to the blooms if they 
have matured, and if tliey are kept liberally supplied 
with water. 

Changes are taking i)lace yearly thi'ough the intro- 



l>i() How TO Grow ('it Flowers. 

(luction of new seedlings, some of which prove supe- 
rior to existing varieties of the same shade. For this 
reason no list can be given which can be expected to 
stand intact for many years, but the following are some 
of those best adapted to growing for cut flowers, and the 
future will have to produce a more perfect list, before 
these will be supplanted : 

Joseph H. White, Ivory, Minnie Wanamaker, Flora 
Hill, Niveus, for white. For yellow, H. E. Wiedner, 
(Jolden Wedding, W. H. Lincoln. Pink — Vivian 
Morel, ^lermaid, Ada Spalding. 

The chrysanthemum has always been considered 
as healthy and rugged as a weed, but experiences 
of the past year prove that this plant also is liable to 
disease. Eel worms liave been found in the roots in 
sections where there they have infested the rose. If 
there is any indication of their being present in either 
the soil or manure used for chrysanthemums, the same 
measures of prevention should be adopted as described 
for the treatment of soil used for roses. 

In the fall of 1892, a new fungoid disease attacked a 
bed of chrysanthemums that were being grown for cut 
flowers. The plants were in a vigorous state of growth 
at the time, and the gentleman under whose care they 
were, states that they were treated with the usual fun- 
gicides but without avail. Mr. Dearness thus describes 
the disease : " 

•' The fungus (^an be easily recognized by the dark 



("IIRVSANTHEMIMS. 187 

blotches, usually about half to three-quarters of in inch 
in diameter. In these blotches are found the spore heaps 
or pits and beyond them the leaf turns yellow ; not 
long afterwards the whole leaf shrivels and is drawn 
downward to the stem. 

'' As the hypha' of this fungus grow through the tis- 
sue of the leaf it cannot be easily reached by external 
applications. Doubtless the best course is to burn the 
affected leaves or destroy the i)lant as soon as the dis- 
ease is observed." 

Another grower of the chrysanthemum tells me he 
observed the same disease on some imported plants at 
about the same time as those just described. These he 
removed at once and burned them. Evidently this 
was accomplished before the spores had time to ripen 
and spread, as he saw no indications of the disease af 
terwards. The experience of these two growers shows 
us conclusively, that we cannot be too watchful, and 
that great care must l)e taken if the disease is once dis- 
covered, to stamp it out immediately. 

Th(^ black aphis so troublesome to the chrysanthe- 
mum is more tenacious of life than the common green 
fly. If tlie usual fumigation does not destroy it, the 
plants should be syringed with a strong decoction of 
tobacco water. 



18'S How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

CHAPTER XXXV. 

VIOLETS. 

The amount of capital invested in tlie production of 
the violet, while seeminglv small, is in the aggregate a 
large sum. True, the greater part of it is repn^sented 
by labor, but in some states and localities much time is 
devoted to its cultivation. In its native home the win- 
ters are mild, and here it is found at its best in a night 
temperature of from forty-five to fifty. Any attempt 
towards forcing this sweet scented flower through the 
application of heat, imuiediately defeats the object 
sought, and natural changes of temperature that come 
with the advent of s-[)ring, tend to gradually lessen the 
formation of buds, and at the same tin^e encourage in 
their place an output of new foliage as the temperature 
incident to the change is raised. Since the advent a 
few years since of the disease which has proved so de- 
structive in some localities, much discussion has arisen 
in relation to the propagation and growth of the plants, 
some claiming their vitality was lessened, and their lia- 
Ijilit}' to disease increased, by a division of the parent 
stool at the expiration of the flowering season. How- 
ever this may be, it is the S3'stem i have always prac- 
ticed, and I have never been troubled Avith the disease. 
This leads me to the belief that the disease is commu- 
nicated rather than produced, and that if none has ever 
appeared, and no interchange of plants brings it on the 
l)lace, it is immaterial whether the new plants are made 



ViOI.ETS. IX'.) 

in September from cuttings, or ])y a division of both 
the old and new growth in spring. In either case the 
young plants should be potted and kept cool until the 
ground can be worked in early spring, when they should 
be planted. The soil should be in a good state of cul- 
tivation, and if that removed from the rose houses is 
spread one or two inches deep and worked into the beds 
wdiere violets are to be planted, it will be l>enelicial to 
them. The distance at w^hich they should be planted 
depends upon the amount of land at one's disposal, and 
the mode of cultivation it is desired to adopt. If for a 
wheel hoe, fourteen inches each way will be sufficient ; if 
by a horse culti vator, eight inches in the row by three feet 
l)etween. All runners should be removed during the 
season of growth, but discrimination must be made be- 
tween thin runn(^rs and the formation of new crowns, 
and by September there should be from four to eight of 
these bud producers surrounding the original plant. 
Many living south of the snow line prefer to Hower them 
in frames, cliietly l)ecause the preparation for doing so 
can l)e made at less expense, but in all parts of the 
north tlie great inconvenience attending their protec- 
tion from frost in frames, the regulation of temperature, 
as well as largely increased labors through heavy falls 
of snow, I'ender house cultivation the more desirable 
method. Houses ten feet wide facing the south, with 
I'oof of e<iual span, and a walk in the centre, are much 
used. This form of building depends upon location. 



190 



How lo Grow Cut Flowkijs. 



The farther north we go, the more desirable it is to 
bring the plants as near the glass as possible. Where a 
wall of suitable height is available, a "lean to" can be 
added that will accomplish the end sought, but the or- 
dinary south walls of houses built for other purposes 
are so low, the roof for an addition of tliis kind must 
necessarily be rather flat, and head room obtained by 
excavating a path along the wall is not desirable. Both 
of these methods are open to objections and are unsat- 
isfactorv. 




Fig. 38. 

If the room can be utilized, an excellent plan is to 
build an equal span roof twelve feet wide, using the 
north part for propagating and the south bench for vio- 
lets. (See Fig. o.S.) In this case it will be found ad- 
vantageous to support each roof with purlins and posts 
made of one inch gas pipe, in order to use as little wood 



VloI.KTS. l')l 

and as niucli glass as possible. Winter propagation will 
also be facilitated by the nse of twenty incbes or moi-e 
of glass in the partition wall tbrongb the centre of the 
honse, and if permanent sunlight is not wanted through 
this, it can easily Ije excluded by a light coat of white 
paint, serving all the purpose of ground glass. For the 
north roof, continuous ventilation formed by sash wide 
enough to receive a twenty inch glass will be sufticient, 
and this should l)e protected by a cap projecting from 
the ridge to exclude gusts of air. The south one should 
also be continuous, and both should open at the top. 
Tn addition to this, if the part of the roof over the south 
bench is made of movable sash, and the joints between 
them capped by half-round battens, every other sash, or 
as manv as may be desired, can be so constructed as to 
add to the ventilation on warm days by simply sliding 
them down the distance wanted. To do this the upright 
side of the gutter must be dispensed with. If it is de- 
sired, the sash on the south roof can be removed in the 
spring, the soil taken out, and the bench supplied with 
new soil and young plants, which canbe grown wherethey 
are to remain for the winter. This presents many advan- 
tages, not the least of which is the avoidance of all dan- 
ger from the blasting of the Inids b}^ removal in the fall. 
If plants are grown in the field during summer, the 
benches should be provided with rich loamy soil, to 
which it is best to remove the plants before severe frosts 
prevail. By this time, if the plants have been carefully 



11)2 How TO (J ROW Ci'T Flowers. 

• attended to through the summer, the crowns sliould be 
full of buds. To avoid injury to these, after cleaning 
of all dead leaves and runners, they should be lifted 
with as much adhering dirt as will save the fibrous 
roots, and planted in soil sufficiently deep to cover the 
balls of earth, watered and shaded for a few days until 
root action commences. A convenient form of shading 
is by the use of cloth manufactured for the purpose. 
Fastened to light frames, this can also Ix' used for cov- 
ering them with at night until time to put on the sash 
permanently. From the time it is necessary to put on 
the sash in the fall, until the plants are through flower- 
ing in the spring, they need constant care. Do not 
think because they flourish in a cool atmosphere that 
heat can be shut off two-thirds of the time and that this 
is all that they need. Ventilation must be attended to 
almost as thoroughly as for roses, giving all the air con- 
sistent with the outside temperature on bright sunny 
days, less on cloudy days, but enough to keep the house 
at from sixty to sixty-five, with a night temperature of 
from forty-five to forty-eight. They should be cleaned 
of runners as fast as they appear, as well as leaves which 
have passed their usefulness. In case there should be 
an excess of foliage, some of it should be thinned out. 
Some growers claim the foliage should be seldom if ever 
wet, believing it has a tendency to spread disease if any 
is present, but spider must be kept in check, and enough 
water should be applied to accomplish this. 



ViOLi-yi' 



193 



Fc)i' several years tlie violet lias becMi a prey to two 
forms of disease which have nearly exterminated it in 
some sections. One of these is caused l)y the same 
worm which is making so miicli trouble among roses 
in some sections. Violet root galls ( S(^e Fig. 39), Dr. 
Halstead tells us, are identical with the lobes found in 
rose roots. 

It would l)e well to ado])t the same precautionary 
measures for violets as were recommended for roses 
when nematoids are 
present in the soil. 

Carefully examine 
the roots when the 
plants are lifted in 
the held, and reject 
all that show any 
indication of theii" 
presence. 

The other form of 
disease, known to 
growei"s as leaf spot, 
is due to a fungus, 
so says the same au- 
thority. Of these, 
many foi'ms exist, 

and several may be Fig. 39. 

present on the plant at the same time. 

Much has been written in relation to this disease dur- 




194 How TO (iROW CiT Fl<)\vei;s. 

ing the past three 3'ears, Ijoth as to cause and reiiiedy. 
As verv few writers agree as to tlie one producing causf 
of this trouble, it is reasonable to sui)pose that several 
combined may have a direct bearing- in the production 
of this particular form of disease, to which the violet 
seems to be peculiarly susceptible. Among the various 
causes assigned are the following: lm})aired vitality, 
springing from the plants being grown in too liigh a 
temperature, and propagated while in that condition ; 
an exhaustion, through long years of cultivation, of 
properties in the soil essential to their growth : extreme 
atmospheric changes, and the i)resence of either water 
or dew on the foliage during the summer. One large 
grower plants in frames, where they are to remain 
summer and winter, carefully protecting the plants 
from dew in the fall by means of canvass shutters. 
Another plants in the same way, but prevents any 
water from toucliing the foliage by means of j-aised 
and shaded sash placed two feet over them. In this 
instance water is applied between the rows as is needed, 
and spider kept at bay by an occasional syringing in 
the evening with water in which, a small quantity of 
soap has been boiled, the temi»erature of the water 
when applied not being less than 100°. Tlie same 
method is pursued in winter, save that while the 
plants are in flower the soap is omitted, and the 
syringing necessary to keep spider at bay is made witli 
clear water of the same tem})erature, 100°. 



Mi(;none'I"ii:. 11).') 

No reiiKMly lias yet l)tH'n found that will entirely 
cure this disease when once it takes possession. Air 
slacked lime is used l.)y some as a i>reventive. both 
plants and soil being dusted with it. Mr. Hiehard 
Donovan, a suceessful grower of the violet near Chieago. 
recommends the use of the ammonia solution in the 
following pro})ortions : Three oz. of the earbonate of 
c()p]>er dissolved in one qt. of ammonia. Use one gill 
to three gallons of water, and ai>ply to the foliage by 
means of a syringe onee a week. This will not eradi- 
cate the disease, Ijut if a])plied as soon as any indica- 
tions of it are seen, it will do much towards holding it 
in check. 

Were it not for these diseases, the Howers would be 
so alnindant there Avould be no market for them. As it 
is, a scarcity is caused, and he who succeeds is reason- 
ablv sure of licing al)le to dis})Ose of his cro]i to advan- 
tage. 



CHAPTER XXXVl. 
mi(;n()>ettk. 

Vov wintci' cutting, the tirst care is to ol>tain good 
seed. The giant varieties used for this purpose are 
not always reliable, and it is a much safer way for each 
grower to raise his own seed, after once obtaining a 
strain suited to his trade. 



1 *.)(■> How TO Grow Cvr Flowers. 

When it is desired to gi"ow this in (juantity, the Ijest 
success will he obtained in a span roof liouse with solid 
beds on either side of the walk. ( 'ontinnons ventilation 
should be supplied in the same way as described for 
carnations, (rood drainage should also l)e provided for 
tlie beds, after which from 1<S to 20 inches of rich light 
soil should be tilled in and the tops of the bed 
brought as near the glass as the flowers can mature 
without injury. Between the 1st and 15th of July 
sow the seed thinly in drills two inches deep and IS 
inches apart. Water well after the l)ed has been made 
compact, and shade the glass until tlie plants are up 
and have made two inches of growth. They should 
then be thinned to twelve inches apartMu the row. 
Al] the air possible should be given day and nighty 
and as this is a season of the year in which mois- 
ture evaporates rapidly, the beds, even though they 
are solid, must l)e closely watched while the seed 
is germinating, and watered enough to prevent any 
dry spots from api)earing. When the plants l)egin 
to push out tlieir leaves, the shading should nW be 
removed and pains taken to keep the glass clear. If 
))utterflies appear, dust the plants with slug shot once 
or twice a week. Tt will not harm the plants and will 
effectually rid the house of the butterfly. As with 
chrysanthemums, if flne spikes of l)loom are wanted, 
all laterals must be removed and the strength of the 
plant thrown into the flowering shoot. The house 



Mk^nonettj:. 11)7 

should be kept as cool as })ossiblo the first six weeks, 
and with the approach of cold weather a night tem- 
perature not to exceed 4o° should be the standard. 
Should the thermometer fall to 40° occasionally, the 
effect will be to stren.irthen the bloom stems. All the 
air necessary to maintain a temperature of from 5o° to 
6")° by day should be given. 

As this plant is also subject to fungoid disease, it is 
well to adopt })recautionary measures. A^ a rule, it 
will l)e found to l)e better to apply the water necessary 
to be used during winter to the soil direct, refraining 
from the use of cold water on the foliage as much as 
possible. 

The particular foi-m of fungus to which mignonette 
is liable, Prof. Seymour tells us, is very contagious, 
spreading from plant to plant with great rapidity. Its 
appearance is that of wilted or dried spots on the leaves, 
and oftentimes th(> whole leaf is destroyed by it. 

Upon the first signs of its appearance, syringing 
should be resorted to, using the same formula as given 
for violets on page 195, and though it may not in all 
cases prevent its increase, it is as yet the best known 
agent in that direction. 



IDS TIow TO (Jj{()\v Cut Flowers. 

CHAPTER XX XV 11. 
THE FORCING OF BULBS. 

So many of our American growers are of foreign })ar- 
entage, if not themselves born and reared where all that 
l)ertains to the eare and culture of Inilbous stock is v(m-v 
familiar, it may seem to them like a waste of space to 
treat of a subject so generally understood. It must be 
remembered that with the rapid development of this 
country, many men are led every year to take up our 
industry without having had enough special training for 
it. To such, this chapter will contain as much of interest, 
]»rol)ably, as any that have preceded it, and if they are 
desirous of learning, it will be equally beneficial to 
them. 

Whatever bulbs are used for this purpose, it will be 
to the interest of the grower to purchase none but the 
best. Xarcissus, Roman hyacinths and tulips are 
available during August and September. It is much 
more convenient to })lant these in boxes than in pots. 
The boxes should be made three inches deep and of a size 
to economize l)ench room in the house where they are 
to mature. Xarcissus and white Romans should i)e 
l)lanted al>out two inches apart, but tulips may be nearer 
together. In the northern states it is very convenient 
to have a cold house where they may be stored until 
the roots are well grown and the bulbs wanted for ma- 
turing their Mowers. If this is not to be had, water well 
after planting, and place the boxes on well drained 



Thk For(IN(; of Brij?s. 19i) 

<:i-()un(l, arranging' and lalx-ling tliem so tlie kinds 
wanted for eai'ly tiowering may Ik' readily found. ( Vjver 
the Itoxes witli about three inehes of soil, and as cohl 
weather approaches give a covering that will exclude 
frost, as it is anything but pleasant work to take them 
out when frozen in one niass. Tulii)s and Romans will 
not l)e injured l)y light freezing, but narcissus are more 
tender and will not endure it. Of those mentioned 
Pa|)er White narcissus are the earliest, and if planted 
in August the}' lUtiy be brought into flower in Xovem- 
l»cr. If a succession of ib)wer is desired, l)ring in the 
number of ])oxes wanted eveiy two weeks, planting and 
setting away others to take theii' places, but these should 
have four weeks at least in which to make root, before 
being })laced in heat. \'on Sion needs the same treat- 
njciU. but no attempt should l)e made to In'ing it into 
flower befoi'e the middle or last of Januar3^ Both these 
and White Romans should be given an inside tem- 
|)erature of from ()5° to 7t>°. 

Tulips should all be planted when i-eceive«l and en- 
couraged to make all the root growth they will. If 
planted eai'ly, those varieties which are the first to 
bloom can be brought inside soon after the middle of 
November and matured in a temperature of from 60° 
to 7'")°. In order to draw tlu^ stems, some growers place 
them over the pipes under the bench and curtain the 
front of the bench to exclude a, portion of the light, 
("are must be taken in this case to give them plenty of 



•200 Plow TO (Ik'ow Cut Fi.owkijs. 

water. Others grow on the l)enehes in a temperature 
of 7^-)° to 80°. and cover the under side of the glass 
with cheese clotli. This also tends to lengthen the 
stem . 

The great thing to be assured of is, that all varieties 
are well rooted. This accomplished, succeeding steps 
are easy. 

Freesias should be ])oxed every three or four weeks, 
allowed to root Avell in a cool room or pit, and brought 
in as wanted. Tliey require about tlie same tempera- 
ture as described for Narcissus, and can be brought to 
bloom in from 12 to 14 weeks after they are rooted. 

Ihilike the bulbs just descril)e(l, lily of the valley 
cannot be obtained 1)efore November, and ])i[)S from 
the new crop can rarely be forced with satisfactory re- 
sults for Christmas. For this reason a few hirge growers 
liave built refrigerators in which to store them for use 
until wanted. Those stored in this way are used 
through the following fall and early winter, the new 
crop being used only for h\te winter and spring flower- 
ing. 

When the lily of tlie valley arrives it should all be 
heeled away in sand or soil under some kind of a roof, 
so that rains shall not drench it. The sand in which 
the roots are i)acked should be moist, and about two 
inches should be placed between each row of l)unches. 
When all are in or the frame is full, cover two inches 
deep with sand which is not as moist as that used for 



The Fokcin(; oj- J>rij5s. 201 

the r(>oti>. This will protect tlie fiower hiids from tlie 
direct action of frosts, while the sand below Avill keep 
them plump. 

For convenience, the bench in which they are forced 
shonld not be over two feet wide, and if enough are 




Fig. 40. 

handled to be able to devote a house to tlicm it can be 
ari-ano-ed as seen in Fig. 40. The sides of the bench 
should be sealed up, doors being provided at the same 
time for the escape of heat when it is not all wanted 



•202 How TO Gifow CiT Fi.owEiJS. 

beneath the l)ench. Cloth screens sliould also be 
hinged that may be either used on the under side of 
the glass, or as a cover for the l)eds as desired. 

Before putting the jnps in the forcing house, trim 
the roots so they will more readily absorb water. They 
need not be left more than two inches long. Plant 
them in the sand in rows, letting the rows be from two 
to three inches apart according to the amount of foliage 
they will make. The sand in which they are planted 
should indicate from S()° to S5°, and the top tempera- 
ture 6.")°. Use water lil>erally and let it be of the same 
temperature as the house. After the bells are formed, 
water must be given between the rows, as the bloom is 
very easily injured if water comes in contact with it. 
^latured flowers may be kept several days by freshly 
cutting the ends of the stems, changing the water, and 
keeping them in a cool })lacc. 

The forcing of lilies has increased rapidly during the 
l)ast few years. With some growers, near our large 
cities, these constitute the main crop for Easter. Mr. 
James Dean, an extensive grower of lilies, thus gives 
his method of preparing them for Easter: 

"Fully three-(juarters of all the lilies that are now 
forced are Harrisii, which is a great deal more profitable 
to grow, as it flowers more freely than the Longifiorum, 
and the plants are not liable to come Idind. It can 1)e 
forced with safety at a higher temiu'rature than the 
LongiHorum, and if the ])lants are removed to a tem- 



The Fohcinc; of Jiri.p.s. 203 

iK'j-atui'o of 50 (leiiTees at night and given aii- during the 
(hiy two weeks l>efore the flowers open, they will be just 
as firm as the Longitiorum and you Avill be able to eut 
nearly double the number of flowers. Most of the lily 
bulbs come from Bermuda, arriving here during the 
months of July and August. On the receipt of the 
bulbs they are potted in a light, sandy loam to which 
has been added al)out one-third of well rotted manure, 
using a o^ and (> inch pot for the o to 7 inch bulbs; a 
()T and 7 inch pot for the 7 to 9 inch l)ulbs; and a 7 
and S inch pot for the i) to 12 inch bulbs. In potting 
the bull) we place it about one inch ])elow the surface 
of soil. They are then set close together in a frame out 
of doors, given a good watering and covered with a 
niulch of hay or straw which prevents the soil from 
drying out so rapidly and saves watering. They can. re- 
main out of doors until frost comes, although a degree 
or two of frost will not injure the plants. From the 
time they are brought into the greenhouse until New 
Years, a night tem])erature of 40° to 45° with plenty 
of air during the day is all they ]-e([uire. After 
New Years they may be removed to another house or 
the night temperature increased to 60° oi- 6o° and 
even to 70° if the weather i)roves bad and there 
i^ little sunshine. Try to have the Hower buds well 
al)ove the foliage six weeks before Easter, so that stand- 
ing in the door way of the greenhouse y(^u can plainly 
see all the buds; bearing constantly in mind that it is 



204 How TO (tiu)W Cu'i- Fi.owkks. 

II great deal easier to hold the tiowers back by .><hading 
and giving plent}' of air, which hardens and stiffens 
them and enables them to bear transportation better, 
than Avhen yon are compelled to hnrry them into ffower 
by steaming the pijjes, and watering them with warm 
water. Under snch treatment they are fit only for the 
rubbish hea})." 

When lilies are wanted for earlier Idooni, they may 
be brought inside whenever they are well rooted in the 
pots. They should be given a temperature of '")()° for 
the first few days, gradually increasing it to (m*^ or 70°. 
lowering it again foi" a week to 5o° after the Howers are 
matured in order to harden them. From 10 to 12 
weeks will l)e required from the time they are brought 
into heat before they will be in bloom. 

The greatest enemy of the lily is green My. and 
these must be kept at bay from the first. 

Lilium candidum is but little grown of late years, but 
is still called for to some extent for use in work wher- 
ever smaller flowers than Harrisii are wanted. As 
these bull)s loose in vitality rapidly by exposure to the 
air, it is better to use home grown bulbs, or if imported 
ones are received, to plant them for a year. As soon 
as their flowering season outside is over, lift sucli as 
are Avanted, putting two in a 7 or S inch pot, using a 
light soil for potting them. Plunge^ these pots to the 
rim and leave outside until early in November, when 
they may be brought into a temperature of oO^. gradu- 



The Fohcixg of Bulijs. 20') 

ally raising it to (50°, and flowers may in this way Ije 
«)l)taincd in f]-om 12 to 14 weeks, (iive plenty of water 
during the period of growth, a(hling liquid manui-e as 
they seem to need it. 

The calla lily is a bulli that needs rest, and it will 
give more flowers when grown in pots. Planted on 
hcnches it is inclined to make too much foliage. After 
the flowering season is past, or as early as the flrst of 
•luly. take tliem to the shade of some building and lay 
tlie pots on their side for the flrst week, giving them a 
light sprinkling once a day. After this, turn the pots 
every other day for two weeks. By tlie middle of 
August they should be shaken out, trimmed, repotted, 
watered well and plunged in a partiall}' shaded place. 
(Jive tliem one shift, letting the size of the pot be pro- 
portion(Ml to the size and age of the bulb, and bring 
them into the house before there is any danger of 
frost. 

From the time the pots are filled with roots, tliey 
should never be allowed to become dry. Place the pots 
in saucers and see that these are always supplied with 
water. Ammonia used in the water is beneficial to 
them, also weak liquid manure. If it is desired to 
mature a cro]) of blooms (piickly, it may be accom- 
})lished l)y giving them water each day for a short time 
as hot as can be borne by the hand. Water that is ap- 
l)lied directly to the roots, should always be warmer 
than the temi)erature of the house. This should not 
hv less tlian ()5°. 



20() How TO (Jitow Cut Fi,o\vei;s. 

chaptp:pv XXX VI 11. 

ORCHIDS. 

So niuch niiglit l)c written on this subject I hesitate 
to commence, lest no stopping i)lace ])e found before 
the limited amount of space tliat can l)e accorded to 
it in these pages sliall ])e exhausted. Orcliids fill so 
large a place in the world of tiowers to-day, and have 
come to be so mucli of a necessity in some localities — 
notably those occui)ied by people of wealth — that our 
list of winter cut flowers would seem incomplete with- 
out some mention of them. We Avill therefore consider 
them very brietly and with reference to the wants of the 
retail grower and amateur rather than to those of the 
wholesaler. For extensive commercial growing, per- 
haps more than any other fiimily do these need to be 
made a specialty. • 

To be grown on a large scale, rccjuires first, a large 
capital. Second, it is necessary that a person should 
have received a practical training in all that pertains 
to their cultivation. The demand for this class of 
flowers is of such recentdate man}^ growers who are ex- 
pert in the cultivation of other kinds of plants, would 
tind themselves somewhat at sea were they to undertake 
the culture of Orchids on a scale at par with the lines 
they are already accnstomed to. Again, from the very 
nature of things, the price of these flowers must be high 
for years to come, and as a consequence will be beyond 
the reach of manv who Iniv liberally of other kinds. 



Oi.M'iiiDs. 207 

Specialists in this line who already have lai'ge stocks of 
])lants from which to produce the Howcrs. will prolja- 
bly l)e able to meet transient demands foi* sometime to 
i'omc. 

To the retailer, however, who _i>rows a part or all of 
his own Howcrs. there exists a necessity for being able 
to supply the wants of his customers if he would keep 
l)ace with his competitors in business. To accomplish 
this in the best way is the object we have under con- 
sideration. 

If you have a home trade, and it is of a nature that 
demands a good line of decorative plants, you can 
grow a few Orchids with both pleasure and profit to 
yourself, as well as pleasure, if not i)rotit, to your cus- 
tomers. It may take a little time to educate people to 
their use. l)ut you will find it to be a great advertising 
medium, and if the pul)lie is invited on some special 
<lay to ins})ect your display which has been carefully 
arranged for the purpose, you will undoubtedly find 
that you will be more than compensated in other ways 
even if no sales of Orchids ai-e made at first. 

The varieties of Orchids })rofitable to the retail gi'ow- 
er thrive well in the same tempcM'ature. shade and 
moisture as are given to palms, and decorative plants 
of like nature. They may also be suspended or hung 
upon posts in various places in the house that would 
not otherwise be occupied. Thus the cost of housing 
practically amounts to very little. 



20S How TO (iiiow Cut Flowehs. 

Open wooden baskets for growing them, or pots 
made for the j)urpose, are preferable to charred wood or 
wooden blocks. I'^ill the basket with fern roots and 
live sphagnnm moss, after providing an abundance of 
])roken crockery and charcoal for drainage. Fasten the 
plant securely to the top of the basket or pot with wire 
and assign it to its place in the house. 

Cypriprdiiim iiisifine is one of the most common Or- 
chids in cultivation, and of exceedingly cas}^ culture, 
it comn)ences to l)loom in Novcnnber and continues 
until March. 

Of the many ('(iff/ri/as, Pcrcirilliana is the earliest, 
commencing to l)loom in the fall and continuing nearly 
to Christmas. This is followed by C. Triantt^^ which 
should be in fiowei- during the period cut flowers are 
most in demand, from -January to April. 

(\ M<h^xi<f blooms through the spring until the ap- 
l)earance of warm weather. 

With these four varieties a succession of Howers may 
l)e obtained extending through the months during 
which the sale of cut Mowers is most profitable. 

This small list is the most suitable for a beginner, be 
he fiorist or amateur. Other varieties can be added 
from time to time as desired, but those mentioned will 
will be found to give a succession of bloom, and should 
constitute tlie bulk of a stock kept for Howering. 

In watering, tin; same principle should be observed 
with Orchids as with other })lants. During the period 



CLEAM.i.NESS. 201) 

of rest, wliicli commences after the growth is com- 
pleted, and the new flowering ])ulb has been formed, 
water should be withheld from them, the moisture ex- 
isting in a palm-house being suthcient to keep them 
in good condition. Let them have only as much water 
as is needed to keep the bulbs plump, increasing the 
amount with their growth, and providing an abund- 
ance when the roots are most active. 



CHAPTER XXXIX. 
MISCELLANEOUS TOPICS. 

CLEANLINESS. 

Some one has called the Carnation the "Divine 
Flower.'' Not only this, but all flowers reflect the love 
of the Divine for man, and for this reason, if no othei", 
their claim to cleanly surroundings is supreme. But 
this is not the only reason, for both beauty and purity 
are much enhanced by the exercise of this great virtue, 
increasiug the pleasures which form and fragrance bring 
to our senses, as well as the corresponding value arising 
from more perfect conditions of growth. 

The lirst step in this direction should be taken when 
the crop in any house is to be renewed. After remov- 
ing the old soil and repairing such parts of the bench- 
ing as may need it, go over the whole ground surface, 
sweeping thoroughly and removing any scattered soil 



210 II(>\v TO Oi.'ow Ci'f Flowers. 

or other accunuilations, after which thorouglily scahl 
the liou.se. No phice of any size can he considered eonj- 
plete without having a hoiler for this purpose, no mat- 
ter what the system of heating may he. Usually this 
hoiler can he used for other purposes also, — power, tem- 
})ering of water, or for steam circulation. The interest 
on two or three hundred dollars hears no comparison to 
the henefit derived, i^ven if the boiler is used for tliis 
sole purpose and remains idle ten months of the year. 
The boiler once set can he attached to tlie water sys- 
tem, thus iXMjuiring hut little ex])ensc in extra pi})e, 
and this connection should be made with the"l)lo\v- 
ofi''' at the rear. When a house is ready for scalding 
till the l)oiler four-hfths full of water, heat it thoroughly, 
and when from forty to fifty i)ounds pressure is indi- 
cated on the steam gauge, draw the tire. Connect a hose 
Avith the hydrant to be used. Fasten to the end of this 
a "leader'' in much the same wa}' you would a ring in 
the nose of an animal. Take the "leader'' in one hand 
and with a thick glove the hose in the other, open the 
connecting valves and tiie head of steam will drive all 
the water from the boiler. With this, thoroughly scald 
every inch of ground surface, the benches, walls and 
sides of gutters. By opening the ends of the building 
before commencing, a draft will be created which will 
obviate any inconvenience arising from the hot steam, 
care being taken, of course, to begin at the end at which 
the draft escapes from the house. Never attempt this 



Cl.EANMNKSS. 211 

without a •' leader" with which to guide th(> stream of 
l)oiling water as the ju'essure drives it through the hovse. 
Vou might as well dance around among the folds of a 
living snake, or attempt to lead a refractory animal with 
a string. Do not ever commence, either, until the tire 
has heen drawn from the boiler, or ruin to it will be the 
result. The under sides of benches sometimts harbor 
vermin and are hard to reach in all i)arts with the 
stream of hot water. To make thorougli work, shut the 
house up tight, and burn sulphur under them. This 
can be done by means of the stoves spoken of for fumi- 
gating, or if you do not have these, red hot bricks will 
answer the purpose. The only care to be taken is not 
to have plants within reach of the sulphur fumes. Salt 
is very cheap, and a liberal coat of it applied after this 
on the ground under the benches will not only })revent 
weeds from springing u\\ but will render it almost im- 
possible for insects to burrow and live in the soil. 
After this has been done, whitewash all interior surfaces 
of benches and walls. Wash, if needed, and i)aint all 
roof and gutter work, and you are prepared to commence 
anew. This process, followed every year, is almost 
e<pial in I'esults to those experienced with new houses, 
which old gi"owers will tell you increase the probabili- 
ties of success l»y a large per cent. These conditions of 
cleanliness should be maintained as far as practicable 
tln-oughout the season. All littei", dirt and dead leaves. 
as well as weeds ])oth on and under the benches should 



•2V2 



How TO GkOW ClT F LOWERS. 



be persistently removed. It is well to have a l)Ox in 
some eonvenient corner at each end of the house, in 
whicli may be placed from day to day rejected l)looms, 
leaves and buds resulting from succoring or dislnulding, 
instead of allowing them to l)e thrown on the ground 
01" behind the l)enches. Have the walks swept as often 
as necessary, and it will be found that when these are 
constructed with cement and the centre raised just 
enough to turn the water, it will greatly facilitate the 
object sought. 

roT 1!ACKS. 

In this same ccmnection, nothing iielps to litter a 
house more than the storing of pots under the l)enches, 
the dirt and l)reakage attending their constant leiiKnal 
back and forth being very great, nor is it a sign of thrift 




Fig. 41. 



I*i;i:i'Ai;a'ii<).\ ok Soil. 2\-\ 

to st'C houses BO incumbered. Every plaee, no matter 
how small it is, should have provision made for unused 
pots in some locality convenient to the potting bench, 
Avhere all the sizes may l)e kept by themselves and be 
ready at hand when wanted for use. The waste from 
breakage is less, and much more time is saved eacli 
season than would build a conv(>nient ])ot rnck every 
year. (See Fig. 41.) 

ri!Ei'A]jArioN oi son.. 

In this, several things are sought to be accomplished. 
The decomposition, as well as the preservation of the 
fibre, destruction of, and protection against insect ene- 
mies,and thethorough minglingof all ingredients added 
to tlie soil. 

At first thought there is a seeming inconsistency in 
the lirst two, both destruction and preservation being 
sought in the same thing. This is because time is re- 
quired to turn the sod and make it tender, but it should 
not be so thoroughly decomposed as to destroy the tibre 
and thus allow the soil to pack too closely. All rose soil 
should contain sod and its roots. If it is a tough old 
blue grass sod, so much the better. The depth at which 
it should be taken must be regulated somewhat by the 
time elapsing l)ef()re needed for use, as well as 1)y the 
amount of land available. The ideal soil pile is com- 
posed of sods cut two inches deep and allowed to re- 
main in the jtile several months before being used. It 



'214 llow TO (Jkow ('it Flow Kits. 

^^hould also 1)0 frozen in all set-tions i)Ossible to do it, in 
order to destroy worms and insects usually found in 
grass lands. 8ome recommend cutting and storing in 
seasons of extreme drought, claiming that in this con- 
dition no insect life will be found to exist. This I 
have never proved, but can recommend early winter 
frosts. If the sod is tough it can be so ])lowed as to 
stand partially on edge, and in this condition the first 
cold spell will freeze it thoroughly, after which it can 
be brought together in a pile, whatever is to be mixed 
with it added, and the whole be ready for turning 
early in the spring. This cannot always be accom- 
plished in this way even in frosty sections, but some 
means should be devised for its accomi)lishment, 
and if no other offers, the labor entailed in the plan 
outlined on page 1(>5 is to be preferred to using soil 
that has not been thus renovated. There are but few 
roses that will not l)e benefited by an addition to the 
soil of at least one-fifth manure— some use as much as 
one-third. In either case, especially in that of the 
larger amount, it must have been so well composted 
when added to the soil, as to have nearly disappeared 
when the soil is ready for use, or to have become so 
thoroughly incorporated as to be nearly indistin- 
guishable. If green manure is all that can be had, not 
more than one yard, to seven of sod should be used, 
in which case more dependence will have to ])e had on 
the various modes of top dressing as the i)lants re- 



FKirrrFJZKRs. -21.") 

(liiirc it. Whatever manure is used, it sliould ]><> a))- 
}>lied in layers as the pile is formed, and when turned, 
the pile should be cut through in narrow strips from 
top to bottom and well mixed. Piles put up late in 
tlie fall will require early and close attention in order 
to have them in readiness for the first planting. If 
more time elapses, turning need not be as frequent. 
In case sutiicient tibre is not present in the soil when 
gathered, layers of straw through the }>ile and incor- 
j)orated with it will be of l)enetit, though it will not 
take the ])lace of good grass sod. 

FERTILIZERS. 

For mixing with the soil, nothing equals grain fed 
cow manure. Avoid distillery products as you would 
p<jison. for slops from these stalls are as fatal to })lant 
life as is the so-called refined product to man. The 
writer has ])roved both and knows whereof he speaks. 
Keej) at least two years stock of manure on hand— three 
if you can. This should always be kept under cover, 
as exposure to storms greatly lessens its value. To 
pi'cvent the May beetle from depositing her eggs, from 
which the white grub is hatched, turn the compost 
piles in April, smooth down the surface and cover 
two inches deep with plain soil, or that in which 
there is no manure, and she will seek a more con- 
genial atmosphere elsewhere. Of commercial fertil- 
izers, none are so valualjle for all crops as pure Hour 



21 (> How lo (Jl{<)\V ClT riJ)\VKIfS. 

of bone. Imf Ix' '<iiir it />•• purr. Somt' years since the 
writer lost $2,000 worth of new roses through the use 
of bone which had been cut with acids. Tlie manu- 
facturer's purse being the longer, discretion counseled 
bearing the loss in silence, which was done. This ex- 
perience leads me to emphasize the advice given, that 
you know absolutely that the article you are using is 
pure. With a change of manufacturers I have since 
found no trouble, and have used it freely every season. 
This is a matter of so much importance to all growers 
that I cannot do less than to say the article last referred 
to is obtained of the Cincinnati Dessicating Co. For 
field carnations unleached ashes sown broadcast and 
worked into the soil are very beneficial, they are also 
good as a top dressing on benches when used in small 
quantities. It will be remembered the color of To- 
ronto grown Woottons was referred to in the cultural 
notes on that variety. Since those notes were written, 
I have been told by one in whom I have every confi- 
dence, and who is in a position to know, that the ex- 
traordinary size and color produced l)y our Canadian 
growers in this particular variety was the result of a 
liberal use of unleached hard wood ashes. No oppor- 
tunity has been had to test this personally since learn- 
ing of it, and I would say to those disposed to try it. 
do so carefully until it proves to do for you as it is 
claimed to do for others. That ashes are good for al- 
most any field crop is a well known fact, but without 



Fi:iM'ii.i/i:i;s. 217 

liaving given them any very practical test on the rose, 
I had formed the opinion there were other fertilizers 
that were better. Nitrate of soda has already been re- 
ferred to. and it only remains to say in addition, if used 
at all. let it be with the greatest care. Only a few days 
since, in visiting a florist in another city. 1 was sur- 
prised to see the condition of bis roses, as he has the 
reputation of being a good grower. Enfjuiring the 
reason, he told me it was through the use of the article 
in (juestion. Careful man as he is. he had. unwittingly, 
used enough to burn the surface roots. Action was 
destroyed, water had to be witldield, and the plants 
allowed to go dormant for a time, and this during tbe 
three months when flowers are in the greatest demand. 
While exceedingh^ sorry for his loss, many of us have 
been in the same })osition, not fi-om just such a cause, 
perhaps, Init through over-confidence in what we were 
trying, either as an experiment of our own, or acting on 
the advice of others. Another argument for conduct- 
ing experiments on a small scale. 

The application of aqua ammonia to the roots of 
])lants, has also been referred to. For roses it is some- 
times 'beneficial when used on the foliage, but I would 
not advise it, unless from some cause tbey need a quick 
stimulant late in the season, and tlicn only on plants 
that are to be rejected at its close. No doubt many of 
tbese more powerful liquids stimulate a plant to greater 
exertion for a short time, but as a rule it is safer to con- 



21 S How 'I'o (J ROW Ci r l^'i.owK Hs. 

fine stimulants to such as seem to ])e the natural food 
of all plants. If your soil has been properly prepared 
they Avill find in it all the food they can assimilate for 
the first two months. When the last mulching seems 
exhausted, li<[ui(ls may be applied with beneficial re- 
sults if abundant root action is present to absorb it, 
but it should not l)e given too strong, oi- when the soil 
is (by. If it is iV)und desiral)le to use liquid food to 
any extent, use it lightly once or twice a week as the 
state of the soil demands, and change tlie ingredients 
from time to time. X peck of fresh cow manure after 
remaining twenty-four hours in a barrel (►f water will 
be as strong as should be used. Alternate with the 
same quantity of sheep manure prepared in the same 
way, and that with half the (juantity from the poultry 
yard. This in turn may be changed for one-half pint 
of a(iua ammonia in a barrel of water, after which 
conunence with the first if more is needed. Licjuids 
should nevc^r be a[)p]ied to a di-y soil. If the l)ed has 
for any reason become dry, or dry in spots, go over it 
first with clear water giving the larger portion of what 
is needed in this wav, following with the li(iuid to be 
jjpplied. Experience and watchfulness alone can reg- 
ulate the amount and frequency of the applications. 

Horn shavings are used l)y some, both in the soil 
and by letting them stand in water a few days and 
then using the liquid. 1 also know of some wlio will 
not use them the second time, having had all the ex- 



Fkutii.izfjjs. 2111 

perience they desire in tliat line already. While some 
have used them successfully, they are dangerous and 
should be avoided. 

Brirmr of tri/iiKj iicir thinijs on a lan/c sni/c^ before prov- 
ing them foi- yourself. This has not reference so much 
to plants as to methods of l)uilding, food given to 
plants, or any treatment not in accord with past expe- 
rience or good common sense. Experimenting is one 
of the ways by which we learn, but it should be con- 
ducted on a small scale until proved to be both useful 
and reliable. The instance recently cited of the loss 
that attended the use of nitrate of soda, is only one of 
the many whei'c great loss has occurred through using 
certain things largely on the recommendation of others. 
^5,(KJ0 would not compensate the man of my ac(juaint- 
ance who risked liis crop in the season of '02 on horn 
shavings. Opportunities for success coming with each 
year, if lost, never come again; a whole year's work is 
blotted out. Worse than that, there is danger that the 
savings of years ol toil may go with it. Some years 
ago an ac(juaintance conceived the idea that his hot 
watei- pipes needed a preservative, so during the early 
fall he gave them a coat of coal tar. A more senseless 
thing was never thought of, and still we occasionally 
hear of a case of tliis kind, and they are always at- 
tended with the same results, a total lo.ss of the crop 
for the season. It is to be ho})ed the next generation 
Avill l)e wiser. 



•2'20 How TO (fHow CiT Fij)\vKi;s. 

A more recent error — for mistake I believe it to l)e — 
is the use of soil for any jmrpose but field work, that 
has been used in the houses one season. Rejected rose 
soil is rich in unspent food, and will bear al)undant 
crops in the field where it can ]>e fully (exposed to sun- 
shine and air, but I have never seen good n^sults from 
its use for any crop the second year, indoors. When 
used for potting, as it sometimes is, instead of great 
white feeding roots being tlirown out, they are often 
small and wiry, and plants are not apt to flourish in it. 
As I write the case of two growers comes to my mind 
who are lamenting the fact that they persuaded them- 
selves the i)ast season to plant their carnations in 
spent rose soil, an experiment they will not try again, 
as it has lessened the production by at least one- 
third. Considerable has been written m relation to 
this matter of late by growers having a soil composed 
largely of mica. This soil seems to be well adapted to 
tlie growth of the carnation, cultivators telling us but 
little manure can be used with it, and while those in 
possession of soil of this nature may be able to use the 
same more than one year, the rule does not hold good 
with soils that must be heavily fertilized. The writer 
dried out a pile of rejected rose soil the past season, 
thinking thus to sweeten and counteract any sourness 
there might l)e in it, and used it for carnations. The 
result is not satisfactory, leadingto the conclusion that 
the best is none too good for artificial growtli. For all 



('uri)K Oil. 221 

fiowering plants u^e nothing but new, fret^li, sw(>et soil. 
Make it rich with all the food the plants will assimi- 
late, but let the l)asis of it each and every year, be 
virgin sod fresh from the field. 

CRUDE OIL. 

The use of this as a preservative is advocated by 
many, w hile others are emphatic and decided in their 
belief that it is injurious. The writer once washed 
w ith it some new boards used in a partition wall. The 
l)ench near them was afterwards planted to Duchess of 
Albany, time enough having elapsed for the oil to 
become perfectly dry and all scent to evaporate. The 
result was, these plants rusted l)adly, while others, from 
the same lot, planted on another bench, in the same 
kind of soil, all the conditions in fact being the same 
save in the use of the oil. remained perfectly healthy. 
No form of })lant life seems to have any affinity for this 
product when brought in contact with it in any quan- 
tity, and it seems reasonable to suppose small quantities 
are proportionately injurious, though it may scarcely 
l)e perceptible. I would much rather chance a bed 
covered with decomposed hops than coal oil, whether 
for the growth of carnations or roses, and even if the 
result required a renewal of the lumber one-third sooner 
in the former case, I believe tliat the increased product 
would more than compensate for its early decay. It is 
best to keep on the safe side of all things about wliich 



'2'2'2 How TO (l}{r)\v ('it Fl.oWF.fJS. 

cultivators disagree. We oftentimes see roots growing 
in the decayed tissues of the hench when the soil is re- 
moved, l)Ut I do not helieve that any one ever saAv the 
same where the hench had Ijeen washed Avith crude oil 
the fall hefore. Lime we know is a preservative in a 
small degree, hesides l)eing food for plants. If any 
part of a huilding is henefited hy its use without injury 
to a croi>, it is the posts which form the walls, hut an 
exterior coat is claimed l)y some to he injui'ious to the 
timher if applied while the sap is present in the wood. 
If the posts are seasoned and placed in a vat and the 
pores allowed to fill with the oil, there can he little 
doubt hut what the life of the tind)er is greatly length- 
ened. 

Another preservative of wood is cement, some claim- 
ing the life of a l)ench is twice as long when waslied 
with this yearly. However this may be. from the na- 
ture of the material it seems safe, and is to be com- 
mended on that account, if it is desired to use any- 
thing l)ut lime for this purpose. 

RKSTOIUNc; LOST VITALITY TO liOSES. 

In relation to the necessity of this, oi)inions vary, 
some claiming that a ceaseless round of propagation and 
growth of our tea roses will, in the end. produce this 
result. The writer has never experienced any neces- 
sity for taking rested stock for this purpose. As usu- 
ally advocated, it is a very expensive method to follow. 



IJi:>'i'()i;i.\(; Lost N'lTAi-riv i*! Uosks. '2'2'.\ 

ve( quiring for its accomplislimeiit two seasons of growth. 

The vitality of a tea rose is often imi)aire(l througli 
the ignorance or neglect of conditions i)ertaining to a 
liealthy growth, and when the jdant sickens, or ceases 
to br protital)le as a [)roducer. it is easy to see that its 
vitality is impaired, but tlie cause is sometimes mis- 
stated, and should be laid at the door of the operator, 
in8tea<l of to the constitution of the plant. 

T have now in process of construction a l>lock of 
houses for summer growing exclusively. In these such 
of the winter flowering varieties as will thrive in a 
summer temperature will be planted, and from the 
dormant wood of these, after the term of flowering is 
over in the fall, a series of experiments will be made 
in ordtn* to fully test th(^ advantage, if any. that is 
to be derived IVom a })artial rest. Any gi'ower who 
has stock in a condition to try this method, can easily 
satisfy himself as to its utility, without the risk of loss 
or ex}>ense. The cutting.s should be treated much as 
are those of hard wood, rooted slowly in a cool house, 
but after once rooted no check should ever be i)er- 
mitted to occur in theii- growth. 

i)isi;ri)i)iN(; roses. 

During the summer it is bettei" to let no buds ma- 
ture, but the practice of ni})})ing them out as soon as 
they appear is to be deprecated, as it leaves a mass of 
(\ves on unri])e wood. an<l these tend to augment the 



'i'24 How TO (Ji.'ow Crr I''i.(i\vi:i!s. 

hiibit some varieties have of throwing blind wood. The 
better way is to let the bud partially mature or lemain 
until its supporting stem has attained firmness and 
strength, tlien cut back one-third or one-balf its length, 
as deemed advisable, or to a good strong eye, which in 
turn will quickly break and produce another strong 
bud-producing shoot. The strongest of the blind wood 
should be allowed to remain to feed the plant, until 
such time as its usefulness in this respect is passed, 
1)ut the weak, spindling wood of tliis class should be 
removed after the plants have attained some size. 
This practice of disbudding should cease with the ad- 
vent of cool weatiier, or Avhenever the market demands 
the product and the plants are strong enough to ma- 
ture them without injury, but in most varieties the 
laterals should be removed in order to throw all the 
strength of the plant to the maturing bud. 

TI!K (AUK OF BOILEKS. 

Too much stress cannot be laid ui)on a careful an- 
nual inspection of so important a factor to success as is 
our heating apparatus. In relation to its care, when 
not in use, I do not think a better method can be recom- 
mended than that given a few years since in answer 
to this same c|uestion: The proper care of our boilers 
is a very important matter, as they bear in a measure 
much the same relation to our business as do the foun- 
dations of a building to the superstructure, f^et these 



The Care of Boilers. 225 

be faulty and trouble arises. Let our boilers fail at 
a critical time and disaster and loss are sure to follow. 

But I find an answer to the question, as to what is 
the best treatment to accord them during their period 
of rest, a difficult one to give; for like many others it 
is one on which doctors disagree. 

I have interviewed several parties, persons promi- 
nent either in the erection or care of these structures 
and find each has a theory or practice of his own. 
Doubtless we all have our views upon the best methods, 
as well as our owai ways of caring for our boilers, but I am 
afraid that in the majority of instances they are left to 
care for themselves. A. tells me to empty the boilers 
and let them stand dry — good advice if they can be 
kept so; B. says keep them full; while C. tells me to 
empty, take off the doors, take out the grates, carefully 
remove all ashes adhering to the fire-box, and see that 
there is a free circulation of air through the flues all 
the time. There are good points in each of these 
methods, but it must be remembered that in four 
cases out of five, — and I might safely say, I think, 
nine out of ten, — boilers are in situations damp of 
themselves, and this dampness is largely increased by 
every rainfall, causing a continual corrosion of the ex- 
posed surface. My own way would be this : Leave 
the boilers full of water, carefully remove from and 
about them everything of a nature to retain moisture, 
thoroughly cleanse the flues, remove as far as possible 



226 How TO Grow Cct Flowers. 

all rust or scale from the flue sheets and from all the 
iron accessible, and then give the whole inside surface 
a thorough dressing with crude or linseed oil. For an 
outside dressing, paint with asphaltum that has been 
cut with turpentine. Stop all draft so as to prevent 
damp air from circulating through the flues. Lastly, 
if your boilers are old, have them carefull}'^ inspected 
by a competent person, if you cannot do it yourself, as 
soon in the spring as they can be spared, in order that 
they may be in thorough repair for early fall work. 

MORTAR FOR FIRE URICK. 

While conducting a series of experiments with clay 
some years since, T discovered that a mixture of com- 
mon clav and crude oil would endure great heat, and 
continue to harden under its influence. For the inside 
lining of walls, or fire boxes that are constructed of fire 
brick, if the brick are laid in this mortar, the joints will 
be nearly as durable as the brick themselves. 

To make the mortar, the clay should be dry. Pul- 
verize it fine, and mix it with enough crude petroleum 
oil to bring it to the state of pliability desired, kneading 
and mixing it thoroughl}^ Use no more between the 
joints than is necessary to set the brick firmh'. The 
interior of a fire box may also be temporarily repaired 
with this mortar, when burned out in places, by filling 
the vacancies with it. This will oftentimes save the re- 



To Stop a Leak. 227 

building of the wall until such time as it can be con- 
veniently performed. 

TO ST0I> A LEAK. 

Leaks in heating pipes sometimes occur at a time 
when fires cannot be dispensed with long enough to 
repair them permanently. If these leaks are found to 
be caused by a flaw in the pipe, or by an 0})ening seam, 
they can be controlled temporarily in the following 
manner: Mix fine sand with white lead until it is of 
the consistency of putty ; spread this half an inch thick 
on a strip of canvas, long and wide enough to cover the 
rent ; if i)0ssible shut off the pressure of steam, or flow 
of water; ajjply the cement and canvas to the pipe, and 
bind it securely with a canvas bandage. When this is 
accomplished take some strong cord, commence at one 
end winding tight and close, until the whole surface is 
firmly covered with the cord. Great damage can often 
be prevented in this way, especially when cast iron pipe 
fails at a season of the year at which permanent repairs 
are impossible. 

Should a seam open in a steam pipe which is re- 
quired to resist several pounds of pressure, and at a 
time when permanent repairs cannot be made, split a 
piece of rubber hose and lay it over the seam. Cover 
this with a semi-circular piece of iron that will fit the 
pipe closely. Fasten all to the pipe by means of clamps 
similar to those used to fasten wood work to the axle- 



228 How TO Grow Cut Flowers. 

tree of a buggy. If one is living at a distance from 
where these materials can be quickly obtained, it will 
be prudent to have a few on hand before the commence- 
ment of cold weather. 



The following advertisements have the endorsement 
of the author of this book. First, because he has had 
occasion to prove their worth in his own business. 
Second, because a personal acquaintance with the men 
and firms they represent, has satisfied him they are 
men worthy of the confidence of all tradesmen. 



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Manufactured with great care 
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R05E GROWERS 



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Prices and samples furnished 
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SHORT SPAN TO THE SOUTH. 




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Successor to John L. Diez & Co., 

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